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BUILDER, HOUSEHOLDER
Compressor installation. Tips for the home master
Directory / Builder, home master A compressor unit may not be as necessary equipment in a craftsman's home workshop or car enthusiast's garage as an electric drill or a vise. But when such a unit is available, it greatly facilitates some labor-intensive processes (inflating tires, for example), and sometimes significantly improves the quality of work (for example, painting products with a spray gun). In the same place where work is carried out with the help of pneumatic tools, because it is strictly forbidden to use electric mechanisms (even with low supply voltage) for the safety of work (in fire or explosive places), a compressor is simply necessary. This compressor unit seemed to have created itself - there was no urgent need for it at that time, but in the "arsenal" of the home workshop, several units and mechanisms suitable for this unit gathered at once. But subsequently, the unit served me well, especially with multi-layer painting of a country house. Without him, I would have spent incomparably more time and effort on this work, not to mention the overspending of paint and the deterioration in the quality of work. But before and after this "global" work for me, I periodically used and use the installation for inflating tires of transport equipment (car, truck), painting large-sized products, for pneumatic riveting when connecting parts of home-made structures, etc. The main mechanism is a two-cylinder compressor from a ZIL-130 car. He became the "heart" of the installation. The main forming and bearing element of the unit is a silencer from a KrAZ vehicle. In the installation, it plays the role of a receiver and a simple frame made of a 35x35 corner is mounted on it, and all the nodes and mechanisms are on it. Two crossbars from the same corner (connected to the frame with a pair of studs each) are brought under the receiver, and four self-orienting wheels are fixed at their ends.
To convert the Krazovsky silencer into a compressor unit receiver, the inlet and outlet pipes were welded with plugs. Then, two threaded holes M14x1 were drilled in the plug of the outlet pipe and two fittings were screwed into them on the sealant. At first, an intermediate receiver from an oxygen cartridge was also mounted so that it would "intercept" moisture and oil in the compressed air. But his work turned out to be not so effective, and subsequently I made a drain threaded hole in the bottom of the receiver-silencer, closing it with a sealed stopper, and excluded the can from the design. As a compressor drive, I used a three-phase AC motor with a power of 1 kW with a speed of 1380 per minute, with delta-connected windings, converted to work with power from a 220 V household electrical network. Of course, it would be better to install a smaller and single-phase motor, but as is more often the case with DIYers, he used and adapted what he had. In order for the electric motor to start easily and not heat up during operation, it was necessary to pick up the starting and working capacitor banks and connect them in accordance with the above diagram. The launch box was taken from a Kama-type washing machine. The engine is started as follows: first, the button for connecting the starting capacitor bank is pressed, and then the main start button on the switch. After the engine reaches nominal speed, the button for connecting the starting battery is released. The motor is stopped by pressing the stop button.
The capacity of the working capacitor bank is selected so that the electric motor does not heat up even during prolonged operation. For a "one kilowatt" it is 25-30 microfarads. The capacity of the starting battery in this case is from 70 to 100 microfarads. The selection criterion is a quick set of engine revolutions. All capacitors must have a breakdown voltage of at least 300 V. A self-made six-bladed impeller in a protective cylindrical casing is installed on the motor shaft, for its better cooling. Transfer of rotation from the electric motor to the compressor eccentric - using a V-belt drive with a decrease in the number of revolutions by about three times. To reduce the power consumption of the drive (that is, to make its operation easier), the compressor had to be slightly modified. Instead of the standard head with only two exhaust valves (there were holes in the bottom of the cylinders for air intake and they had to be sealed), a duralumin plate with four valves was installed: pairs of intake and exhaust.
The pipelines connecting the compressor with the receiver and transfer case are aluminum with a through diameter of 6 mm. Connections of pipelines with mechanisms - using standard aviation fittings, elbows, tees and union nuts with bushings. The transfer box is self-made, it is an aluminum bar with a longitudinal blind hole drilled from one end in the middle with a diameter of 10 mm - a tube from the receiver is connected to it through a fitting. Three more holes of the same diameter fit this hole: two on top and one on the side. A pressure gauge is installed in one, the upper one, and a safety valve, adjusted to a maximum pressure of 4 kg / cm2 (4 atm), is installed in the other. A compressed air outlet is mounted in the side hole. Author: E.Evsikov
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