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BUILDER, HOUSEHOLDER
Corner mini-fireplace. Tips for the home master
Directory / Builder, home master I have a small individual summer cottage - 5 acres, so I built the corresponding brick house: 4,5x4 m. I fenced off the room with a decorative wall for the bedroom and living room. And to make it more comfortable, I put a fireplace in the living room. And now I am overjoyed: the fireplace regularly heats the room, creates an unusual atmosphere of "communication" with an open fire. In addition, it takes up little space - in the corner. I will be glad if someone will benefit from my experience. There were no particular difficulties in the calculations and subsequent execution of the mini-fireplace I had conceived. Although the very design of the corner stove, as I began to call it, differs from traditional wall-mounted fireplaces (or free-standing indoors), of course, it implies some departure from the usual schemes and, as a result, an independent solution of individual elements of the furnace, chimney and the chimney itself . Therefore, both the preparatory and working stages of its creation require a leisurely, thoughtful approach - according to the proverb "try on seven times, cut once." Before laying, he made drawings - "orders". According to them, he carefully selected and adjusted the bricks dry, after which he laid them on the mortar (clay and sand in a ratio of 1: 1). For masonry I used a dense red brick, for a firebox - refractory. When developing a fireplace project, it is important to calculate the cross-sectional area of \uXNUMXb\uXNUMXbthe chimney in the pipe and the dimensions of the portal (firebox window).
The ratio of their areas should be approximately 1:10. I was convinced: if you take more, for example, 1:15, the fireplace will not heat, but cool the room, turning into an exhaust hood. The width of the portal at my fireplace is 600 mm, the height is 500 mm, and the chimney area is 378 cm2. Above the ceiling, the triangular chimney passes into a square pipe through an adapter frame. To protect the roof from sparks, the pipe was raised 400 mm above the ridge. Its total height (from the bottom of the furnace) was 6 m. An umbrella made of roofing iron was installed on top of the pipe head. In order to keep warm and protect the chimney from being covered with snow, the pipe outlet was closed with a steel gate valve measuring 410x280 mm. The lifting system is simple. In the chimney, at different heights, I installed guides - metal strips with 10 mm holes, through which I passed a draft of 6 mm wire.
Materials used: For masonry: red brick - 582 pcs., refractory brick - 192 pcs. For mortar: clay - 8 buckets, sand -300 kg, cement - 200 kg. Finished parts and materials: cleaning door - 1 pc., steel corner 45x45 mm - 3 m, reinforcing steel Ø12 mm - 1m, steel pipe Ø15 mm - 380 mm, pine board 1300x450x50 mm - 1 pc., concrete M100 - 0,5, 3 m4, roofing material -2 m410, steel plate 280x3x1 mm - 6 pc., steel wire Ø6 mm - XNUMX m. Its upper end was attached to the damper gate, and the lower end to a rotary lever with a handle, passed in a steel pipe with a diameter of 15 mm through the chimney wall (slightly above the cleaning door, which is laid above the "smoke tooth"). I calculated it so that when the handle is turned 180 °, the thrust, pushing the gate, lifts it above the pipe by at least 200 mm. Having heated, by turning the handle in the opposite direction, I close the chimney, and all the heat remains in the house. Another useful trick: in the furnace, a steel hook was attached to an inclined shield that reflects heat to the floor while laying bricks. A cast-iron cooking pot is hung on it. And after the firewood burns out and bright hot coals remain, you can cook a barbecue. To do this, I slide a metal barbecue table into the firebox. Do you hear how the barbecue sizzles? And what a flavor! And it's all right in the living room, even if the weather suddenly cleared up behind the wall and it's raining. I want you to have one like this too! Author: V.Krivoshey
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