Entrance door upholstery. Drawing, description

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Entrance door upholstery. Tips for the home master

Builder, home master

How familiar and ordinary look the entrance doors of the apartments, upholstered in artificial leather or leatherette. All the difference is only in the color of the material and the location of the nails. And if one master passed through the entrance, then all the doors become "twins".

It happens that the outer side is sheathed with decorative slats. The appearance is elegant, but the sound-absorbing and heat-insulating properties of the door do not improve. In addition, the slats make the structure significantly heavier, which can weaken the fastening of the hinges and lead to skew. And it’s not easy to buy ready-made profiled rails, and not everyone can make them at home.

I offer a simple version of the upholstery of the front door, which solves the issues of heat and sound insulation and opens up the richest possibilities for decoration. Instead of the traditional leatherette, I used a sheet of fiberboard, pasted over with veneer and fixed with slats on the outer plane of the door over a heat-insulating material, which can be used as foam, foam rubber, etc.

The fiberboard sheet should be 15-20 mm smaller than the doorway so that the door closes freely.

Veneer from different types of wood is desirable to select the same thickness. Before starting work on gluing it, it is necessary to depict the selected drawing on graph paper on a scale of 1: 1. To simplify the work, it is desirable to divide the drawing into small elements that are simple in shape. Then, using carbon paper, the drawing is transferred to whatman paper or cardboard and cut out. In order not to make a mistake when gluing in the future, each element is numbered.

The most crucial moment is the selection of veneer. It is important that the color and texture of the veneer correspond to the purpose of the element of the picture and blend well with each other. Cardboard templates are placed on top, outlined along the contour, then the pattern is cut out with scissors. In places where the patterns have internal radii, a sharpened scalpel or shoe knife comes to the rescue. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the direction of movement of the cutting tool does not lead to chips.

Entrance door upholstery
Rice. 1. The design of the entrance door insulation: 1 - door frame, 2 - entrance door, 3 - sealant, 4 - decorative veneer layer, 5 - fiberboard sheet, 6 - insulation, 7 - frame; A - a variant of sealing a fiberboard sheet with a glazing bead

Entrance door upholstery
Rice. 2. The design of furniture doors made of fiberboard: 1 - frame, 2 - glazing bead, 3 - fiberboard sheet, 4 - veneer

Entrance door upholstery
Rice. 3. Possible options for drawings: A - for the front door, B - for furniture doors

If there are a lot of straight joints in the drawing, then use a photo cutter to simplify and speed up the work.

It is better to start cutting the pattern with larger central parts, and then the mating parts. To make the joint less noticeable, since the overall quality of work depends on it, it is convenient to transfer the mate lines directly from the cut blanks.

When all the elements of the pattern are cut out, they are glued onto a sheet of fiberboard. For this purpose, it is better to use epoxy or carpentry glue, since casein glue leaves hard-to-remove stains when it gets on the front surface. The glued veneer must be pressed tightly and kept in this position until completely dry.

The next stage of work is sanding and varnishing. First of all, 1-2 layers of varnish (NTs-222 or NTs-228) are applied to the glued surface for fixing. Then they grind with fine sandpaper, wetting the surface with water when using epoxy glue or white spirit - when using casein and carpentry. The final finish is made with light parquet varnish, pouring it in 1-2 layers. The fiberboard sheet is installed strictly horizontally, about 1 liter of varnish is prepared and poured in portions over the entire surface of the sheet. To avoid leakage over the edges, a plasticine edge 2-3 mm high is installed around the perimeter.

When refilling, the side should be increased. Each layer is left to dry for about a day.

To install the sheet on the door, you will need rails with a section of 15x20 mm, in which a groove with a width corresponding to the sheet and a depth of 6-8 mm is selected with a tongue and groove. Then the outer edges are rounded, and the ends are sawn off at an angle of 45 °. The length of the rails should be 2-4 mm less than the linear dimensions of the doorway.

At the end of the work, the fiberboard sheet is installed on the door. To do this, it is removed from the hinges, handles and locks are removed. Two opposite rails are baited with nails and check whether the sheets fit snugly into the grooves. It is useful to hang the door in place to check the correct installation of the rails relative to the opening. Then the door is removed, the insulation is laid, the sheet is finally inserted and fixed with the two remaining rails. After that, door handles, locks are put in place, and the door is hung on hinges. The work will be simplified if the fiberboard sheet is not laid in grooves, but in quarters selected in the slats, and fixed with a glazing bead, like glass in window frames. In addition, the glazing bead, painted or stained, will itself serve as a decorative element of the pattern.

This finishing method can be used not only for apartment doors, but also for decorative overlays on home-made furniture, as well as on various doors if they are made of fiberboard: in this case, fiberboard is pasted over with veneer on both sides, inserted into a frame and fixed with a glazing bead.

Author: V.Leukhin

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