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BUILDER, HOUSEHOLDER
Concrete wells. Tips for the home master
Directory / Builder, home master Concrete wells are strong and durable. They are relatively easy to manufacture, and their installation is quite simple. Concrete wells are mounted from separate rings of any size and weight. If the soil allows, you can arrange a monolithic reservoir. For this, one ring is made, it is placed in an aquifer, and then a concrete mass is lowered into the formwork - an almost monolithic cylinder is obtained. Concrete rings for a well can be without a lock (simple) and with a lock. So that the first ones do not move during installation, they are fastened together in four to six places with steel brackets. To do this, holes are left in the rings, and the ends of the brackets are bent and sealed with cement or painted with oil paints. Depending on the depth of the well, the height of the modules forming it also changes: from 400 to 1000 mm with a Ø 800-1000 mm. Wall thickness can vary from 90 to 120 mm. When using metal reinforcement, the rings are made thinner - from 50 to 90 mm. The mass of each such module is very large, so their sizes are chosen based on the carrying capacity of the available equipment or the presence of assistants. For example, a reinforced concrete ring with a diameter of 1000 mm and the same height and thickness of 50 mm weighs 380 kg. For ease of installation, lighter weight elements with a height of 300 to 500 mm are preferable. Reinforced concrete rings are reinforced with steel reinforcing wire. For vertical rods (4 to 6 of them are installed per module), wire Ø 8-12 mm is used, and for horizontal weaves Ø 6-8 mm. Reinforcing rings are spaced 50-80 mm apart from each other. At each intersection, the frame is fastened with soft (annealed) wire up to 2 mm thick. Two diametrically opposed vertical rebars should form tabs by which the module is lifted for installation. So that these rods do not pull out under the weight of the load, their lower ends are bent with the letter G. After installing the rings in place, the ears are cut off.
Rings of all types are made in a form (formwork) consisting of two cylinders - external and internal. They are usually collected from boards. Their diameters are interdependent, as they determine the thickness of the walls of the ring. For example, if the diameter of the outer cylinder is 1000 mm and the inner cylinder is 900 mm, the thickness of the resulting concrete ring will be 100 mm.
The form is made detachable and is made up of three or four parts or pieces. First you need to put together wooden rings: two for assembling the outer cylinder and two for the inner one. At the same time, it is not at all necessary to make a solid wooden form: the boards can be nailed with gaps, and then sheathed with a roofing sheet, plastic, thick cardboard, waterproof or ordinary plywood. It is recommended to paint cardboard and plywood with oil paint and dry well. To make the molds easier to remove from the product, they are covered with a thin layer of lubricant or bleached. After lubricating the walls facing each other, the parts of the outer cylinder are mounted on a wooden shield and firmly fastened with planks on nails. The inner one is inserted into the outer cylinder strictly in the center. In the space between the cylinders, exactly observing the same gap between the walls, a reinforcing cage is inserted if the product is reinforced concrete, or ears made of reinforcing wire (into concrete). Four wedges are placed between the frame and the cylinders - their task is to hold the reinforcement in a given position. After this, an aqueous solution of cement, sand and gravel is prepared. For 1 volume part of cement (grade no lower than 400), take 2-3 volume parts of sand and 4-5 parts of fine gravel (or crushed stone). It is recommended to first mix the cement with sand, and then with gravel or crushed stone. The more homogeneous the mixture is prepared, the stronger the concrete mass will be. Stirring - prancing - must be performed on the striker, that is, on a wooden shield. After prancing, the mixture is moistened with water, thoroughly mixed again and water is added as necessary so that the concrete mass takes the form of a thick dough. The resulting solution is placed in the space between the cylinders in layers of no more than 100 mm and carefully compacted with a steel pin Ø 10-15 mm. After laying the layer, the wedges are raised by 150-200 mm. This is necessary so that the space they occupied is also filled with concrete and compacted. In this way, called beating, the entire mold is gradually filled. A solution of creamy thickness is also used for the same purposes; it is also compacted. This process is called casting. We must remember that the thicker the concrete mass, the faster it hardens. Products obtained by beating can be released from the mold after 3-4 days; cast - in 6-7 days. In the latter, there are usually fewer shells than in broken ones. Sinks must be covered with cement mortar. After removing the mold, the workpiece is kept on the shield for 3-5 days, moistened with water three to four times a day. Thanks to this treatment, concrete acquires increased strength. If the molds were lubricated with machine oil or grease, then the lubricant must be carefully removed from the entire surface of the workpiece. It is preferable to make rings with a lock. But this requires two additional wooden rings - to form a neck and a ledge. Rings made in this way do not move. The seams between them are coated with cement mortar: 1 part of cement and 2-3 parts of sand. And a few other tips. One of the rings, the lower one, must be made with a broadening at the bottom: arrange a second ring 150-200 mm high from the outside with a knife made of sheet or other steel. The knife is made separately and articulated with pins, with which it is embedded in concrete during the beating or casting of the workpiece. Of course, you can make this element without a steel knife, leaving it concrete, but then the strength of the material should be increased by increasing the amount of binder per serving of concrete or using a higher grade of cement, at least 500. The ring will have to make a bracket for this, that is, cut off butt on the "mustache", thus arranging a knife. Install the rings. First of all, a shaft is dug to the possible accessible depth, wider than the outer diameter of the ring. The walls of the shaft are strengthened, the bottom is leveled. Lowering the first ring strictly vertically, pour the soil and compact it. On the first ring put the second and so on. Author: A.Shepelev
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