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ENCYCLOPEDIA OF RADIO ELECTRONICS AND ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING Scanned pattern. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering
Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Ham Radio Technologies Try your hand at the ancient, but still popular and now jewelry metalworking technique - filigree or, as they used to say in Rus', filigree (Filigree (old) - drawn gold, silver and small wire silver work, filigree (V. Dahl's dictionary). ). Let pendants be your first piece. This decoration will be a good gift. START WITH TOOLS AND MATERIAL The main tool of a jeweler is a soldering iron or just a torch. It can be made from one or two series-connected compressors for an aquarium (Fig. 1, a). A rubber or plastic tube from them will pump air into a chemical flask with a dense rubber stopper (Fig. 1b). This flask is for gasoline (Fig. 1, c).
Through the second hole in the cork, gasoline vapor from the flask will fall through a plastic tube into a metal tip (Fig. 1d). The burner tip itself is best made from a brass, copper or stainless steel tube with an internal section of 4-5 mm (Fig. 2). In order for the flame to be cut off from gasoline vapors after the compressor is turned off, it is necessary to put a roll of tightly twisted copper, brass or steel fine mesh into the tip of the tube. It is best to wind the roll on a sewing needle (Fig. 2, a). The resulting hole about 1 mm in diameter will give the desired "needle" flame.
For soldering, we need solder, which we will make from silver (pieces from a broken earring or ring will do) and brass (pins from an electrical plug). For 1 gram of silver, 0,4 grams of brass will go. How to cook solder - a little lower. Of course, you also need a flux, the most affordable is borax powder (Na2B4O7 x 10H2O), you can buy it at a pharmacy. You will also need two tweezers: one is long and the other is shortened, at the end of which two cones must be made, one slightly smaller than the other. With these tweezers, jewelers bend the wire for the pattern (Fig. 3a). Prepare side cutters (manicure pliers), scissors, a piece of stainless wire about 1 mm thick and 8-10 cm long. ,b).
Remember: working with fire requires asbestos, so as not to burn the table and not start a fire. Pieces of asbestos (asbestos cardboard 5x5 cm) can be found where electric and gas welding work is carried out. We will put a piece of plywood under 4-5 layers of asbestos cardboard to make it easier to move our soldering table. We will need a bleach solution - bleach to clean the product after soldering. This is a weak - 10-15% - solution of sulfuric acid (H2SO4) or copper sulphate. Concentrated acid, recall, is poured into car batteries. In one jar we will prepare the acid, and in the other water, we will wash the product in it. A jar of acid must be covered with a piece of glass so that it does not "exhale". Do not forget: in order not to burn yourself, when dissolving, you need to pour acid into water, and not vice versa! SOLDER To do this, the collected pieces of brass and silver must be melted together in a crucible - a special heat-resistant jar. You can make a crucible yourself from ordinary clay (Fig. 4). Dry, and then heat with a soldering iron (always on an asbestos lining!) To a faint crimson color.
Now we will pour borax into a hot crucible and heat it until the borax stops rising in flakes, turning into a mass like stationery glue. Here we will throw a piece of silver. Having melted, it will run in the crucible, like a mercury ball. At this moment, carefully put brass into the crucible with long tweezers (Fig. 5).
The combined metals must be melted to a liquid state. If the entire mass of the ingot does not melt, then divide it into proportional pieces and melt in parts. Let them cool, removing the burner flame, and pull out the ingot with tweezers, holding the crucible with other tweezers. Be careful: both the crucible and the ingot are heated to 700 ° C - twice as hot as a match flame! We break the cooled ingot with a hammer on the anvil to a thin plate. Cut the solder with scissors into small pieces 1x1 or 1,5x1,5 mm. Well, if you could not get the components of such a solder, do not worry - you can solder with ordinary tin and rosin. SUSPENSION SKETCH When preparing a sketch, try to ensure that all parts of the suspension come into contact with each other as often as possible - then the product will be durable. Glue the sketch onto cardboard, which is wrapped with plastic wrap. You can see the pattern through it, but nothing sticks to it. Now we select a copper wire (from old radio devices) of a suitable thickness (preferably 1; 1,1; 1,2 mm) and slightly flatten a segment of 1-1,5 m with light hammer blows (Fig. 6, a). Flat wire is easier to bend in one direction and can be soldered stronger. We hold one end (large) in our hand, and take the other end with short tweezers and twist the pattern detail (Fig. 6, b).
We apply the resulting curl to the sketch and check if it fits in size. We cut off the finished curl with tongs and glue it with BF-2 or BF-6 glue (you can buy it at a pharmacy) on a sketch wrapped in film. We glue the subsequent details to the first. You need as little glue as possible, when soldering, solder will take its place, and the glue will burn. We dry the assembled product for 1,5-2 hours, and then carefully (without destroying it) remove it from the film. WE START SOLDERING We transfer the product to the asbestos and begin to smoothly drive the flame over it. We hold the detachable parts with stainless steel wire on a wooden stick. Therefore, it is better to hold the burner in the left hand, and in the right stick or long tweezers. Sprinkle the heated product with borax, it boils a little and spreads over the details, replacing the glue. Now, at the junction of the elements of the pattern with tweezers, we bring pieces of solder directly into the flame. They immediately roll up into balls and if they “run away” from the joint (the place where the parts are connected), then you push the balls with a stainless steel needle. It can be preheated in a flame and dipped in borax, then reheated to a crimson color. The pieces themselves will stick to the hot borax. We bring such a ball to the joint with a needle and direct the flame more at the joint and, to a lesser extent, at the needle with solder (Fig. 7).
The solder always "runs" to where it is hot, so the ball, when touched, passes to copper and, spreading, firmly connects the details of the pattern. Lastly, solder the eyelet through which the chain or thread will pass. The soldered product, heating, is removed with tweezers from the asbestos cardboard and lowered into the chill for 10-15 minutes. In its solution, the remains of borax leave and copper oxides dissolve. Then we wash the product in water and check the strength of the connection of the elements (lightly touching each joint with tweezers), since sometimes the connection is held on by a drill, and not by solder. An unsuccessfully soldered place must be re-soldered. The pendant is ready! But in order for it to have an elegant look, it must be polished with a set of brushes "Master" or a piece of felt (for example, from an old felt boot) with GOI paste or razor straightening paste. Then wash the product in gasoline. And the scanned pattern will shine in the hands of the master! Author: M.Sokolov
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