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ENCYCLOPEDIA OF RADIO ELECTRONICS AND ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING Mountain soldering. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering
Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Ham Radio Technologies Heating up metal is a tricky business. The forge, although simple in design, requires both space and equipment. We offer a small portable forge (see Fig. 1). It is easy to handle, quickly heats the metal to the right temperature, and runs on safe voltage tone sources.
(click to enlarge) The device of the hearth is shown in Figure 2. A baking sheet made of sheet steel 1,5 mm thick is installed on a metal frame made of steel pipe. Its dimensions are chosen in such a way that three refractory bricks fit tightly across here. A ledge is carved into them, on which a grate made of an 8-mm steel plate is installed. Note that bricks are processed more easily if you put them in a bucket of water for a while before processing. There is a hole with beaded edges in the metal pan under the grate. A piece of pipe with a diameter of 80 mm is tightly planted on them. At the bottom of the pipe there is a removable cover for removing ash, and an air duct is attached to the side. At its opposite end, a cylinder with a diameter of 150 mm and a height of 100 mm is fixed from a steel sheet 0,8 mm thick. One end of the cylinder is closed with a plug. And on the other, an electric motor from a car windshield wiper is installed. The engine is attached to the cylinder walls with clamps. A wheel with six blades made of thin duralumin is put on its shaft. The pressure of the air blown by the fan is regulated by a rheostat. Its device is shown in Figure 3. The base is cut out of an asbestos-cement sheet 8 mm thick, the resistance is nichrome wire from a 127 V electric stove spiral, the slider is made of an elastic brass plate. The top of the rheostat is closed with an aluminum cover. The fuel for the forge is coal. Chips are first kindled on the grate. Then turn on the fan at low speed and, as the flame increases, wooden bars are placed. When they flare up, it is the turn of coal. During combustion, the coal sinters and forms a crust, under which the heat is held. If the crust is not dense enough and tongues of fire break through individual cracks, these places are sprinkled with coal and irrigated with water. It is more convenient to carry out this operation with a rag fixed on a wire. Pour in new portions of coal and lay the blanks through a hole in the crust, punched from the edge. The vault, formed from sintered coal, should not be destroyed. You can do without coal, but only wood waste. In this case, a steel ring is placed on top of the hearth (see Fig. 4). As the wood burns, it chars and sinks down. In the lower part of the ring, under a layer of charcoal, a sufficiently high temperature is formed. For the correct installation of objects inside the ring, as well as for monitoring the combustion process, there is a vertical cut on the wall. And on the opposite side of the other - it is provided in case the dimensions of the workpiece are too large. And so that it also has a reliable support, a removable table is installed on the edges of the table. The easiest way is to make it from duralumin corners and plates, as shown in Figure 5. And now a few words about safety. There should be no combustible materials near the forge. An exhaust box must be installed above them. If the forge will be kindled in the yard, make sure that there are no wooden buildings, garages and other fire hazardous objects nearby. It is advisable to equip a permanent workplace outdoors with a chimney and walls that protect from the wind, as shown in Figure 6. Horn soldering with brass in terms of strength, it is almost as good as welding, so it is more convenient to conduct it using a portable forge. Steel parts prepared for soldering are cleaned with a file. Then a flux is applied to them with a brush - a saturated solution of borax in water. And the solder is brass grades L62-L68. It is advisable to start a practical acquaintance with the forge husky by overlapping parts of a steel strip 3 or 4 mm thick. Between the segments of the strips, a sheet of brass is inserted and flux is applied. Everything is pulled together with a thin steel wire (see Fig. 1 on the color tab). To prevent the solder from catching the wire, it is pre-annealed until scale appears. The blanks are placed in the hearth so that the solder melting process is visible. As soon as it melts and "flows", the blanks are removed. Excessively long stay of the product in the fire reduces the strength of the brazed seam. After cooling, the soldering place is cleaned of flux residues with a metal brush dipped in water. The influxes of brass are washed down with a file and finally polished with sandpaper. In a similar way, steel bars can be connected, for example, a decorative lattice (Fig. 2). To connect two rods, their ends are sharpened into a spike (Fig. 3). And in some cases, a piece of brass inserted between the parts, when melted, weakens the tension of the fixing wire. To prevent this from happening, the solder is not placed, but wrapped around one of the parts, as shown in Figures 4 and 5. It is easier to connect steel pipes of the same section using an external or internal coupling (Fig. 6). But you can connect them like this. The end of one tube is put on the mandrel and, tapping with a hammer, slightly pull it out. At this point, the tube walls become thinner and the diameter increases (Fig. 7). The transverse connection of two workpieces will be strong if the tongues are machined on one part, as shown in Figure 8. If you want to insert a tongue into the tube for bolting other parts (Figure 9), you should do this. A hole is punched in the tube. The tongue is tightly inserted into it and soldering is performed. Other types of connections can also be made. One of them is shown in Figure 10. In all cases, the key to high-quality soldering is careful fitting and cleaning of the parts to be joined. If the connection turned out to be fragile, the defect is corrected by reheating, separating the parts. Next, the surface is again carefully cleaned and soldered. A situation may also arise when, when fitting tubular parts, one of them will need to be bent. This work can be done only by stuffing it with dry sand. To compact the sand in the tube, long wooden plugs are used (Fig. 11). If there is no pipe bender in the workshop, the workpiece is bent in a bench vise using wooden linings (Fig. 12). Horn soldering can be used to decorate steel products with artistic carvings. In this case, the object is covered with a thin layer of non-ferrous metal, and then, in accordance with the pattern, some of its sections are removed. It is possible to cover steel products with zinc, copper, brass, bronze. However, it should be noted that the yellow-gold relief, made of bronze or brass on blued or oxidized steel, looks most impressive. Covering large surfaces with an even layer is not so easy. Therefore, this technology is most appropriate for products with small decorative elements, for example, for decorating tools: carpentry hatchets, hammers, chisels shown in Figure 13. Buckles, badges, emblems, as well as all kinds of fasteners, lids for caskets and much more can be made in the same technique. In this case, do so. Jewelry is being prepared from thin non-ferrous metal. It is superimposed on the steel billet when it warms up enough in the forge. If the product cannot be placed horizontally in the hearth, use the following method. The plate of solder is placed in place and covered with a sheet of asbestos, which in turn is fixed with thin steel wire. Asbestos is applied wet on concave or convex surfaces - then it better repeats the shape of the product and does not allow molten solder to flow out. Author: K. Skvortsov
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