Another way to make a printed circuit board. Scheme, description

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ENCYCLOPEDIA OF RADIO ELECTRONICS AND ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING
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Another way to make a printed circuit board. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering

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Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Ham Radio Technologies

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To make the board, you will need a computer with the ACCEL EDA 15.0 program installed, a laser printer (the author used an HP LaserJet 1100 and Lexmark Optra R +, but I think any available one will do), an iron (steam irons with holes on the "sole" are best not to use) and special paper, which must be mentioned separately.

Each pack of EPSON branded inkjet paper contains a special adhesive sheet for cleaning the printer path. This sheet is used for its intended purpose, but the paper backing on which it is pasted is just what is required for the described purpose. The substrate has an A4 format and a glossy finish, on which a laser printer prints beautifully and does not spoil with heat. Moreover, the backing (we will refer to it as a special sheet) can be reused many times if the gloss is not damaged.

The process begins with the preparation of a drawing of conductors. I used ACCEL EDA version 15.0 for this. A few tips for those who will work with her.

Firstly, do not leave the default hole diameter of 0,965 mm in the pads (PAD) - this is too much, you need to replace it with 0,5 ... 0,6 mm. The resulting points are then used as the center of the punch.

Secondly, on the BOARD layer, be sure to draw the boundaries of the board - the PRO ROUTE autorouting program works only within the boundaries defined on the BOARD layer. Then it will be convenient to cut the board along these borders, and the workpiece should have an allowance of 4 ... 5 mm on each side.

Thirdly, one should not provide for too wide conductors - more than 4 ... 5 mm and pouring large sections. The larger the individual object in the figure, the worse it is translated. The optimal width of the conductors is 0,5 ... 3,5 mm.

Having finished preparing the drawing, they give the command to print. Depending on whether the drawing was prepared in direct or mirror form, the MIRROR icon is marked or not marked in the task. By default, the program prints the picture in the upper right corner of the sheet. Therefore, it is necessary to adjust the task in such a way that the drawing turns out to be approximately in the center.

Be sure to note which side the sheet was inserted into the printer (make a note on the sheet) - this will come in handy later. A test print is printed on plain paper, and only after checking its quality and correctness, printing is performed on a prepared special sheet.

Here it is appropriate to note that the dimensions of an amateur radio board rarely go beyond a quarter of an A4 sheet and even more rarely - beyond a half. This means that it is advisable to cut the special sheet in half across and one of the halves in half again. This will allow you not to heat the entire sheet once again, each time you can choose a part of the appropriate size.

A piece of a special sheet is applied to the test print, making sure that it covers the printed pattern with a margin. Attach this segment with the working side outward with paper stickers from audio or video cassettes so that the stickers do not overlap the margins of the picture. Insert the resulting blank into the printer with the marked side and print the board pattern on the special sheet. Note that no other available materials are suitable for gluing the special sheet, as they melt in the printer.

Since the printer has a complex print path with many sheet folds, it is better to use the bottom exit (for example, the HP LaserJet 1100 printer has this option). This measure will reduce the risk of damaging the impression. If the tracks on the print show visible cracks or where the ink is missing, the process will have to be repeated.

The board pattern obtained on the special sheet in mirror image is transferred to the foil material with a hot iron. To do this, separate the special sheet from the paper, place it with the pattern up on a flat elastic surface (on a thick magazine or a stack of newspapers) to ensure that the print pattern adheres to the board blank over the entire area, and cover the board blank with foil to the print. Be sure to remove chamfers and burrs from the edges of the workpiece - this will allow you to press it against the special sheet without gaps and not damage the print. The workpiece, of course, must be cleaned of dirt and grease.

It is best to use a modern iron, with a power of 1 kW. Its temperature regulator is set to a mark in the middle between divisions 2 and 3. The optimum temperature may have to be clarified empirically.

The board blank is pressed from above with a heated iron for 10 ... 15 s (with a fiberglass thickness of 1,5 mm). During this time, the pattern powder will melt and adhere to the workpiece at least in several places.

Next, the iron is removed, the workpiece is carefully turned over with the print fused to it with the paper up, pressed again with the iron, and with its smooth movements and pressing, the pattern is transferred to the foil for 10 ... 20 s. With a longer heating time and a higher temperature, the glossy surface of the special paper may be destroyed or the ink of the pattern may spread, and this will inevitably lead to marriage.

After the workpiece has cooled to room temperature, carefully lift the special sheet, starting from the corners. If it turned out that part of the paint remained on the special sheet, you can once again warm these places with an iron and cool again.

Pickle the workpiece as usual. Acid and hot solutions should not be used to avoid etching the conductors. After washing the etched workpiece, the paint is removed with a cloth swab soaked in acetone, and holes for the leads are drilled.

If the board is double-sided, first etch one side, protecting the foil of the other side with a wide adhesive tape. Then two or three small diameter holes are drilled - 0,4 ... 0,5 mm, necessary to match the patterns on both sides. Holes should be chosen that are closer to the perimeter, on opposite edges of the pattern. Before etching the second side, the finished first side is sealed with a wide adhesive tape. The holes for the leads are drilled after the complete processing of the second side of the workpiece.

To reuse the special sheet, unless, of course, the gloss has been damaged, its surface is thoroughly wiped with a soft cloth with acetone to remove traces of paint. After that, the surface acquires a pure yellowish color.

Author: A.Kurilov, Tynda, Amur Region

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