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High quality car sound system. Part 2. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering

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Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Speakers

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The semi-finished system looks like this:

Quality car sound system

Source - СDP Alpine 7842 (in the regular place) + 6-disc magazine Alpine CHA614 (rear on board vertically)

Signal mockery - Equalizer Audiocontrol EQL (on the front wall of the subwoofer, accessible from the driver's seat if you fold the right seat) + Audiocontrol 24XS crossover (on the rear wall of the subwoofer under the guise of an amplifying economy)

Amplification - 6-channel PPI Powerclass 6600, 2 tweeter channels, 2 for midrange, 2 bridge for subwoofer. It sits on the back of the sub. As a result of the amputation of the rear sofa, only 30 cm of the interior depth was taken away, while the trunk was doubled! Beauty (rear view).

Acoustics - Focal 136NX (5N3201 in kickpanels + TN46 on racks), included with separate amplification, and immediately behind the front seats - Focal 33S subwoofer in a closed box.

Now I will try to justify the choice. As for the head - the choice was due, on the one hand, to good reviews about the sound of the Alpines, on the other hand, to the convenience of the location of the main buttons (more precisely, the encoder knob). Let's say Denon or the new Pioneers would also suit me, but they have the main buttons on the right, they stretch far, the lever gets in the way. Therefore, many worthy models have disappeared. Nakamichi seems to be good for everyone, but I heard a lot of complaints about reliability and noise. Amplifier - what, just a good amplifier, all shiny chrome. See the beauty link above. An equalizer is inevitable, primarily in the low frequencies - in the Niva, not a single sub will play linearly, the interior is small but siphons outward, therefore the half-octave bands of AudioControl came to the yard very much. The crossover was needed to implement separate amplification of midrange-high frequencies.

Power unit

Under the hood got a yellow Optima. The wiring is made in a two-wire circuit (plus and ground), with a wire of 36 and 50 sq. mm. Underhood fuse - dual, one section for the head unit, the other for everything else.

Quality car sound system

Placing a subwoofer in place of the rear seat is a long-cherished dream. She came true! Here it is, a box of immodest dimensions.

Quality car sound system

With seats folded down (equalizer under right seat)

Quality car sound system

And in a normal position.

Quality car sound system
- what glitters is an amplifier.

Quality car sound system

It's closer. Above, under the glass - a local fuse box.

Frontal tragicomedy

It was immediately clear that it was extremely difficult to place a decent midbass in the Niva Doors (precisely from the point of view of the midrange). The doors are short, landing is high. In the lower front corner - everything closes the seat and legs, above - the power window mechanism, in the upper front - in principle, you can place a 4-5 "speaker, but with a long overhang, since literally three centimeters from the iron - there is glass (the door is then fortless). In the photo - in bare metal - a rectangular cutout above the power window is visible - this is the very place.

So, kickpanels. A cursory review of what we have available (see photo) showed that there is a powerful box-beam that crosses the plane of the kickpanel (therefore, the acoustics should be located BELOW this beam. Behind it, parallel to the outer sides - a solid sheet of metal. Therefore "It's impossible to make a free kickpanel that ventilates inside the mudguard. Well, you can cut out this sheet, but judge for yourself what a wreath of problems is associated with this. You need to make a closed box (or FI for the most stubborn ones). And the volume there - the cat cried. I ended up with 2.5 liters of clean (but you can wind up 4 if you avoid my mistakes.

Based on the volume, the choice of front acoustics suggested itself. Focal 136nx is the only Focal model capable of playing midbass from such a volume (recommended 3.8 liter ref, 7 liter FI). Unfortunately, out of production. At the same time, the resonant frequency is 45 Hz (this is not at all small for 13 cm!), And in the box - about 90-110. And of course, the indestructible TN46 tweeter.

The initial fitting of the speakers (with baskets wrapped in rags to crush the wave from the back of the cone) showed (1) the optimal angle of rotation relative to the vertical plane of the bead - about 10 degrees up and 10 degrees back (toward). Large angles ruin the picture, and there is absolutely no room for the speaker to fly out. It also turned out that when trying on it is extremely important to use exactly the speakers that we will install, and with the same crossovers. Because the orientation to the "middle" midrange and "upper" midrange is not the same. Differences in speaker tones will result in angle adjustments based on different parts of the spectrum.

Unfortunately, the glorious service in Butovo's "Crossroads" safely lost the very film from the kick manufacturing processes. Maybe this is for the best, because. in hindsight, I understand that the process was initially wrong. I took a regular panel (which is stamped from thin ABS plastic on the Niva), and in the lower half I cut off everything superfluous from it except for the edges adjacent to the threshold and door frame. The Niva kickpanel, unlike a typical passenger car, closes not only the board itself, but also the wheel arch, the space in front of the feet, and (on the right side) the battery box.

Quality car sound system

Then I cut out the back wall of the box from 10 mm plywood, repeating the shape of the side under the body, with a protruding reinforcing strip along the door frame. He clamped it right in place with clamps and glued it (with a porridge of epoxy and rags) with a truncated kickpanel. Then I cut out a model of the box itself from fine-meshed foam plastic (later I will dissolve it with acetone) and a 16 mm plywood ring for the speaker (but I will not dissolve it). And all this was pasted over with a fiberglass sandwich - many layers of carbon tape - fiberglass. In one step, a 3 mm thick shell is ready, both in the area of ​​\uXNUMXb\uXNUMXbthe box and on the other surface of the kick panel. On top put another layer of fiberglass (thick). The outer wall is ready. Then from the inside I glued the remaining joints between the plywood and the muzzle - done.

After that (here, in a hurry) it turned out that the finished product sits in place only with a large gap. Well, okay, it’s not visible from the outside, because between the iron and the box there is a lining from the Carpet. But this means that I lost at least a liter of usable volume on each side.

I immediately discovered that the shell came out very sonorous. Primary jamming was carried out with a dynamo and a gruel of epoxy, sawdust and lead shot. Approximately three kilos of shot per side.

Setting

Long months passed... Finally, Bubuk and the amplifier took their place, and shamanism with the stage became possible. In chronological order:

1. 23.09.99/3000/4 - the first plug of the knife switch. Crossover for XNUMX (XNUMXth order active). The first impression is that the midbass scene is nonexistent, it is narrow and blurry. I put the tweeters on the racks - no matter how I twist it, the stage (from the left seat) is tied to the left. I put it in the kickpanel (far corner) - it got better. Resonances break through in the midrange (didn't the box drown out enough?).

2. 26.09.99/XNUMX/XNUMX - moved the tweeters closer, right to the midbass flange. The tonal balance, the unity of the vocals are good. Resonances (dirt on the focal and pipe) - in the same place. The scene is extremely mediocre.

3. 29.09.99/XNUMX/XNUMX - GR came and criticized everything. The tweeters moved to the corner of the torpedo-rack, oriented towards the head of the opposite listener. Accordingly weakened the level of HF. It turned out that on the right - everything is centered as the doctor ordered, but Rebecca is walking. On the left, the same as before. Well, a little better. At the same time, we set up the phase shifter on the mid-high frequency crossover (to the “middle” position in the high frequency).

4. 01.10.99/XNUMX/XNUMX - on the advice of GR, sealed the inside of the boxes with carpet, added dynamite from the back, and stuffed with padding polyester. To not ring.

5. 02.10.99 - Genn came and criticized everything. Raised the tweeters by 1/2 the height of the rack. It got better again! but Rebecca went on a spree even more. Then I threw my vest over the instrument visor and - here it is - everything fell into place. Ringing bad. Therefore, it is necessary to paste over it and the top of the torpedo with something deaf. This is how it ended up looking like this:

Quality car sound system

6. 15.10.99/XNUMX/XNUMX - Dostoevsky came and called it all "a hooligan system but with inclinations." It would be better if you gave me a deposit, and then you would forget.

7. 16.10.99/6/150 - got on the Bluesmobile and privatized the achometer for a couple of hours. Well... it took a radical correction of the midbass-bass (up to 50 dB from 500 to 1000 Hz, then flat. Around 2...3 Hz - two peaks against the background of a general blockage. Around 6..XNUMX kHz (crossover frequency ) - failure Above XNUMX kHz - blockage (and I thought I did it "loudly" ...). The tuning was carried out in five stages:

a) listened separately to the frequency response of each band. Shed a tear. The most disgusting thing is the midrange dip at 300..500 Hz, then a peak at 600 Hz, another dip and a peak at 1200 Hz or so.

b) wiped away tears, started pink noise, and twisted the midbass crossover to close the dip in the region of 70..100 Hz. Above it was the peak as much as 10 dB (120-150).

c) on pink noise - played with an equalizer. Draw something acceptable. True, it is rather rough, since the scale of the achechometer graph is very "generous" and subtle deviations are not visible on it. For fine tuning, let's move on...

d) launched one-third octave noises from the "Audio store 1" disk - and copied the absolute SPL levels by bands. Now, with an accuracy of decibels, all the flaws are visible. Corrected everything possible.

e) pink noise again, as well as Vadim's experienced ears.

Of course, it is impossible to bypass peaks and dips in that terrible octave (500-1000) with an octave equalizer, but in general, the frequency response turned out to be quite straight from 150 to the very top. Subjectively - at first it seemed like nonsense, too much treble, too sharp mids, little bass (6dB, it turns out, is not enough!).

8. 17.10.99/XNUMX/XNUMX Finally put the stands under the tweeters. Tired of driving on plasticine. Made on the basis of the old ones using the well-known rag technology AE, caraudio.ru/articles/pisk/default.htm.

9. November 1999. Covered the top of the torpedo with chunks of thick carpet cut into shape. No glue, held by its own weight. So that the edges were even, without terry, set them on fire with a lighter.

Result (Auto Flogging)

The scene and focus from the right seat is close to normal, but not deep.

It's worse from the driver's seat, the stage is pulled to the left, the arrangement of instruments, sometimes, is not "as it should be." It is necessary to do something with the visor, the bastard interferes.

But the main claims are to the tonal balance in midrange-high frequencies and voice reproduction. It was not possible to eliminate the gap in the MF-HF bands, and at 2-4 kHz some kind of porridge is rushing, there are ragged overtones on the male voice (tenor). This must be eliminated first. There are also problems with the midbass - 5 "can't give coke its due. So we'll work on the bugs ...

I say goodbye to this

Klaus, always in progress...

Publication: klausmobile.narod.ru

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