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ENCYCLOPEDIA OF RADIO ELECTRONICS AND ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING Remote stop and reverse run of the counter. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering
Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Electric meters Description of a hack from the point of view of theory - how is this possible? A typical all-Russian meter has four terminals: 1 - 2 - 3 - 4. A current winding is connected between terminals 1 - 2, which has low resistance and consists of several turns of thick copper wire. Terminals 3 - 4 inside are simply closed to each other. Between cl. 1 and class. 3(4) a voltage winding with high resistance and a large number of turns of a thin wire is turned on. The windings feed the magnetic circuits, the field of which drives the disk of the measuring mechanism. Power is accounted for by multiplying the instantaneous values of current and voltage acting on the windings. At the same time, their instantaneous mutual direction is also important. If in one of the windings to change it to the opposite, the direction of rotation of the disk will also change. So our task is to stop the current in the current winding or change its direction relative to the voltage winding. Stopping the current can be achieved by applying a workaround for its passage, and changing direction by passing a reverse current through the current winding using this path. This way is the use of ground wire or central heating radiators connected to zero in one way or another. If your apartment has a socket with grounding (Euro or technological), which is typical for houses built since 1979, then we directly have this third wire as a workaround. If a ground wire is not provided, it can be successfully replaced by a steam heating battery. Unfortunately, this path is not available with the standard inclusion of the meter, when on cl. 1, to which the current winding is connected, a phase is supplied, and to cl. 3 - zero (output - terminals 2 and 4). However, by changing this order to the reverse, the phase on cl. 3, and zero on cl. 1, we have at our disposal both outputs of the current winding. Zero comes to us from the battery or from the ground wire, which is also connected to the terminal in the shield. 1 counter, and its class. 2 - comes directly to the sockets in the form of a regular zero. That is, now the current winding of the meter is between zero and ground. We do what we want with it - we close it, and the meter is standing, we supply reverse current - it went back. Still, it is not possible to achieve a complete stop when closing - consider the resistance of the wires (compared to the resistance of the current winding), but this is even better - not so noticeable. However, if the wiring resistance is too high, then there may not even be an effect. Then just feed the electrical appliances from the phase and ground, generally bypassing the meter. ATTENTION !!! Work in existing electrical installations under voltage of 380 V is extremely DANGEROUS TO LIFE! Stop car! - Practice. How to stop the electricity meter?
In the front door on the shield, find the appropriate device for your device: Do you have other types of devices? You will have to open the terminal cover of the meter. Fortunately, they are almost never sealed, and no one pays attention to this (unlike the body of the meter itself), and you can break the seal without a doubt. The seal installed on the cover is made of polyethylene, has a fragile structure and can be easily removed / installed repeatedly and without visible signs of this. Remember the order in which the wire passes through the screw, eyelet and seal. Unwind the twisted ends of the wire and pull off the seal with a strong jerk with your hands. Use a needle to pierce the channels for passing the wire. After finishing work and installing the cover, pass the lock through the screw and eyelet and insert it into the seal. On the opposite side, twist the wire. Slightly flatten the filling with pliers, placing smooth pieces of metal under the sponges - this will save the impression. Ready. Find a device that turns off your apartment. If this is difficult, turn on the tape recorder in the apartment and turn off the devices one by one. Silence is a signal that you have found your device. In the same way, find your machines (2 or 3 if the house has electric stoves). Turn off your device. Use the phase indicator to find the supply side. Open the second type of device for this. Carefully! Its parts easily fall out under the action of a spring if the axis of the lever is displaced. The first device has the danger of a short circuit between the terminal and the top iron cover. Hold the phase indicator probe at an angle. The wires from the side opposite to the supply, which are currently de-energized (check!) are interchanged. There is a zero block next to or above your machines. The wires going to your apartment (noodles) are connected with one end to your machines from above, and the other to this block. It has a jumper, and a wire comes up to it from below. The machines below also have a jumper and a wire. Swap these wires. To do this, you will need pliers, wire cutters, a sharp knife and round nose pliers to make a ring at the end of the wire. The ring must be tightened along the diameter of the screw in a clockwise direction (so that when the screw is tightened, it tends to tighten, and not to open). Mark the wires suitable for the meter 1 - 2 - 3 - 4. Loosen the terminal screws just enough so that the wires are released (do not unscrew any more, they may fall out). Fasten the wires in the order 3 - 4 - 1 - 2. Everyone, turn it on. By connecting now the zero in the outlet to the ground in it or to the battery, you will cool down your counter. To do this, you can make a special plug with a jumper between zero and ground or a wire with an alligator clip to connect to the battery. At the same time, take all measures so as not to plug the plug in the opposite direction - mark or better, break off one pin, and plug the phase hole in the socket. A technological socket (available in the kitchens of houses built since 1979, with a triangular arrangement of flat pins) is much more convenient, since it initially prevents incorrect switching on. Full back! How to unwind the electricity meter? Having done the above, we are ready to put the meter back and bill the energy supplier :-) You will need a transformer with a power of 150 ... 200 watts with a voltage on the secondary winding of 3 ... 15 volts, adjustable in steps or smoothly at a current of up to 10A. Ideal for this is the usual LATR, which is even in the school physics room in any laboratory. Of the ready-made ones, a tr-r from an old tube TV or a radio receiver with two powerful windings of 6.3 Volts each, and a winding of 1 Volt can come up. Connecting them this way and that, we get a set of different voltages. It is possible to wind a home-made one on the basis of such a transformer, having lowered all the extra anode windings, and wind the power ones with a tap every 1 Volt and connect it to the switch. The connection of the transformer to the socket is made according to the following scheme:
By adjusting the output voltage, we set the current in the circuit, which is greater than the consumption of the apartment. Hop! And the counter is spinning backwards. An approximately equal current stops him, and a shortage allows him to crawl quietly. In the case of the euro or technological socket, the device is simply stuck into it. It can be arranged as a separate box with a cord and plug, or even built into an energy-hungry device such as an electric stove or fireplace, and even combine its power controls with a winding switch. RAO UES of Russia is resting! From a legal point of view, such a connection is absolutely legal, because you can stick whatever you want into your sockets, and the fact that it was you who did some revision of the electrical panel in the front door still needs to be proven (by the way, bumbling builders sometimes connect the wiring incorrectly, literally helping you). So it's a power supplier's problem to have such stupid meters! :))))))))))))) How the electricity meter works and how it is deceived From the point of view of electrical engineering, an electricity meter consists of 2 inductors. It is connected to the wiring so that one coil is connected in series with the load, it contains several turns of thick wire and has a very low resistance. The same current flows through it as through the load, therefore it is called a current coil. The second coil in the counter has many turns and is connected in parallel with the load, the current through it is very small, and the voltage is the same as on the load. It is called a voltage coil.
With this inclusion, the magnetic fields created by these coils have a phase shift of 90 degrees relative to each other. These coils are geometrically located in the meter body so that their fields, acting on the meter disc, cause it to rotate. The disk rotation speed is directly proportional to the power in the load. And the direction of rotation depends on the direction of the current in the coils. For clarity, we will consider positive such a phase shift at which the disk rotates forward. The easiest way to cheat is to disconnect one of the coils from the wiring and turn it on in antiphase (i.e., swap the wires going to it). In this case, the phase shift becomes negative and the disk rotates in the opposite direction. The more powerful the load, the faster. The disadvantages of this method are obvious: firstly, such a deception is almost impossible to disguise, because the meter constantly rotating backwards will certainly cause unhealthy interest, if not from neighbors, then from energy supervisors, unless of course it is installed inside the apartment. Secondly, to swap the wires on the meter itself, you need to get close to them, and this is sometimes not possible, because the meter is very often installed inside a metal box, the lid of which is tightly welded The next way is to simply break the circuit in which the current coil is connected and let the current flow through another circuit. In this case, the counter simply stops. Let's take a closer look at how they do it.
Usually the current coil is connected to the phase wire. It is much more convenient to create an additional circuit in parallel with the neutral wire. Remember that the pipes of heating and water supply systems are connected to the neutral wire (grounded). Fans of free electricity swap the zero and phase wires going to the meter. This can be done on the switch, which turns off all the wiring of the apartment. It is included in front of the counter and is always located in an easily accessible place. Such alteration is practically invisible to the naked eye and does not attract attention. After that, an additional circuit is created: inside the apartment, the neutral wire of the wiring is connected to the heating pipe. In this case, practically nothing happens, the counter both spins forward and spins, only it can be a little slower, because the resistance of the additional circuit is usually an order of magnitude greater than the circuit with the current coil. To stop the meter, you need to break the old circuit, for example, by turning off the automatic fuse ("plugs"). Now the current continues to flow into the apartment bypassing the current coil, and the meter stands still. The wiring in the apartment is usually different for sockets, lighting and electric stoves. You need to turn off the fuse that is included in the wiring, in which the neutral wire is connected to the pipe. Accordingly, the load connected to other parts of the wiring in the old way causes the counter to rotate. This improves camouflage, because, for example, you can only ground the wiring of an electric stove and use it for free, while light bulbs, TV and other appliances consume less electricity, and you can pay for them. And finally about the most sophisticated way of deception. It turns out that the counter can be "rewound" quickly and conveniently, with little or no intervention in the wiring. The method is very similar to the previous one: they also switch the current coil to the neutral wire by swapping the wires on the knife switch. But the neutral wire in the apartment is connected to the pipe through the secondary winding of the transformer. It is necessary to use a network transformer with a power of 150-200W with a voltage in the secondary winding of about 6 volts. The secondary winding must be made of a thick wire, otherwise it will get very hot because the transformer operates in short circuit mode. A mains transformer from a tube TV is suitable (use a filament winding).
The primary winding is connected to the network in the usual way, but the phasing of the transformer is selected so that the current in the secondary winding is out of phase with the current through the current coil and the load. This is very simple in practice: they turn on the transformer somehow, and if the meter spins forward, then the conclusions of the secondary winding are reversed. The current in the additional circuit with this inclusion will be much greater than the current through the load and the main circuit, and the total current in the current coil will be antiphase to that which is necessary for the correct rotation of the meter disk. In practice, sometimes it is necessary to select the number of turns of the secondary winding, based on the optimal ratio between the "rewind" speed and the temperature of the transformer and connecting wires. This method is very convenient: a lover of free electricity can, for example, use electricity for a week, not paying attention to its consumption, then late on Saturday evening, when the neighbors are sleeping, quietly switch the wires in front of the meter, turn on the transformer in the apartment in the socket, connect the wire from its secondary winding with a heating pipe and go to bed. In the morning, the transformer is turned off, and the meter readings are the same as they were at the beginning of the week. And if the wires on the switch are returned to their place, then there will be no evidence of a brazen and shameless deception of the state. In conclusion, I want to remind you that even though people with some ideas in electrical engineering are engaged in such methods of deception, even among them there are cases of electric shock due to negligence and neglect of safety rules. It is especially important to note that the use of heating and water supply pipes as grounding, under certain circumstances, can lead to the fact that in several neighboring apartments these pipes will be under mains voltage. It is safer in this regard to use a ground wire, which is always available in apartments equipped with electric stoves. Workbench magazine (Master A.Pixel(SLY FOX), other sources. Publication: cxem.net
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Comments on the article: Samodelkin Almost everything is correct, but there is a small "BUT". Now there are counters in which, regardless of the direction of rotation of the disk, the odometer, i.e. the wheels with the numbers will spin in the direction of the set. I did not pay attention to this, but the next day I saw that instead of the 20 kW that I wanted to twist, I wound another 34. BE CAREFUL !!! And they differ in the icon on the panel - this is "(-" only the arc and the dash are connected together, and on the arc there are arrows up and down.
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