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ENCYCLOPEDIA OF RADIO ELECTRONICS AND ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING
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Modernization of the electric drill. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering

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Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / electrician's tool

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As a result of modernization, an ordinary (and, as they say, battered) drill from an inquisitive home-made worker expanded its typical "drilling and grinding" functions. Now she can, if necessary, twist and unscrew the screws, and if she is very "impatient" - even for a jigsaw or a hacksaw, it will work quite tolerably. For this, only the appropriate equipment is needed (it is not considered in this material).

The first thing I did for my old electric drill was to equip it with a speed controller, which I adapted as a mass-produced domestic industry portable dimmer SRPZOO-1 "Sveton". Since the latter was designed for a maximum load of 300 watts, and the power consumed by my "old woman" was almost one and a half times higher than that mentioned, then at the first joint switching on, thick smoke went out of the "Sveton". I had to hastily replace the burned-out resistors with new ones (see the circuit diagram), with more power dissipation. And instead of the previous dinistor U436, ​​he installed KN102B. I was satisfied with such a modernized regulator. At least there were no outages!

The second improvement of the hard worker-drill was the reverse. It was possible to execute it on the basis of a toggle switch - a TP1-2 toggle switch, which has 6 outputs (3 for each group of switched contacts). Moreover, the place for its installation in the handle of the drill was found without much difficulty.

Position the toggle switch across the handle, close to the motor bearing housing. And in a drill with a built-in speed controller - along (the handle is longer there). In any case, to install the reverse toggle switch, a hole with a diameter of 8-9 mm is drilled in the end of the handle, which is then finalized to the required size with a round file.

If at the same time it turns out that the surge protector will interfere with the modernization of the drill, it is simply removed. And you shouldn't be afraid of it. Moreover, there is no mains filter on a number of models of hand-held power tools (by the will of the developers and the manufacturer). In an extreme case, the "ill-fated" filter can even be moved, placed below the trigger switch, the lock-limiter of which will also serve well as a piece of stationery eraser.

The same eraser will help out, along with an emphasis from a piece of a large paper clip, when you install a "factory" speed controller in your drill (say, developments of the BUE-1 type). True, the interfering ledge at the brush holder will have to be cut off (so much so that the lower spring of the brush holder will be visible). However, all this will more than pay off due to the convenience and additional features when working with a drill upgraded in the way discussed above.

Modernization of the electric drill
Modernization of the SRPZOO-1 "Sveton" dimmer to use it as a speed controller for an electric drill (parts that can be replaced with more powerful ones are highlighted).

Modernization of the electric drill
Regulator installation: 1 - electric drill body (handle cover removed), 2 - lower brush holder spring (brush holder protrusion sawn off), 3 - BUE-1 speed controller assembly, 4 - elastic sealing gasket (from stationery eraser, 2 pcs.), 5 - thrust bracket (from a piece of a large paper clip)

Modernization of the electric drill
Foot control and switch: 1 - base (from 3 ... 5 mm plywood), 2 - stationery hole punch, 3 - push-button microswitch, 4 - bracket (from 105 mm piece of aluminum corner 20x30 mm), 5 - pressure pad ( made of 3...5 mm plywood), 6 - BUE-1 speed controller assembly, 7 - limiter (M4 stud with three nuts at the end), 8 - ShP type connector socket (2 pcs.), 9 - power cord .

Modernization of the electric drill
Schematic diagram (I), installation features (II) and placement of the reverse toggle switch in the body of the electric drill (III) (the handle cover is removed): 1 - the body of the electric drill, 2 - the motor manifold, 3 - the brush fastening screw (2 pcs.), 4 - brush holder spring (2 pcs.), 5 - mounting sleeve with internal thread (4 pcs.), 6 - bearing housing, 7 - toggle switch .TP1-2, 8 - M12 nut, 9 - washer, 10 - trigger switch, 11 - clamp-limiter (made of eraser), 12 - current-carrying core (insulated, 2 pcs.), 13 - input of the power cord.

Finally, the last of the proposed improvements to the old (and not only) drill is equipping it with a foot (pedal) speed controller, which, along with the main one, also has an additional function: to serve as an original (and very convenient) switch. Moreover, this development can be used in conjunction with another load. For example, to work as a dimmer while simultaneously switching from one source to another. For example, in a photo lab, when switching from a red light to a photographic enlarger. At the heart of everything here is an ordinary clerical hole punch.

When triggered, it presses on the BUE-1 regulator, which is built in a special way, and also activates the push-button microswitch, thereby performing the corresponding changes in the load power mode in one or two channels at once. The device proposed for repetition in a home mini-workshop is quite compact. But its dimensions can be further reduced (with a simultaneous increase in the reliability of the entire structure) if the wire connections are "activated" here through standard factory connectors, placing the latter inside the pedal.

Author: O.Lavrov

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