Electric motor - do it yourself. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering

Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Beginner radio amateur

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The magnetic field creates an electric current supplied to the coil (solenoid). The field acts with a certain force on a magnet brought to it. But a magnet with the same force acts on a wire through which current flows. The operation of electric motors (electric motors) is based on the phenomenon of the interaction of electric current and a magnet.

Any electric motor consists of two main parts. The stationary one creates a magnetic field - this is the stator, which is a permanent magnet or excitation winding, the rotating part is the rotor.

How does an electric motor work? Between the poles of a permanent magnet (stator) there is a rotor - one turn of wire: an electric current flows through it. This coil of current creates a magnetic field.

Interacting with a permanent magnet (stator), the north pole of the coil (rotor) will be attracted to the south pole of the magnet, and the south pole to the north. If we now change the direction of the current in the coil, then the arrangement of the poles at the rotor will also change to the opposite. Near the north pole of the stator will be the north pole of the coil, near the south - south. Repulsive forces will arise, and the coil will turn half a turn. A new change in the direction of the current will cause another half turn, and so on.

A special device, the collector, changes the direction of the current in the rotor winding. The simplest collector is a metal ring divided into two halves. One of the ends of the rotor winding is connected to each half of the ring. Brushes are pressed against the half rings - metal plates connected to a current source. The brushes move from one half of the ring to the other, and the direction of the current in the rotor winding changes. Therefore, it rotates continuously. This is how a DC motor works.

And now we offer to make an electric motor for moving models ourselves (Fig. 1). Start with the stator. According to Figure 2, cut out 18 plates from annealed tin (for example, a tin can) with a thickness of 0,5-1 mm. Drill 4 holes Ø 2,5 mm into the plates: these will be needed for the tie bolts. Next, fasten all the plates together, file the ends of the stator with a file, paying special attention to its inner surface. Its diameter should be equal to 41 mm.

Rice. 1. Homemade electric motor

Drill two more Ø 2,5 mm holes in the bag for attaching the front and back pads. Then disassemble the stator, clean each plate from burrs, cover with a layer of shellac or BF-2 glue and assemble again.

Wind the excitation winding (coil on the stator) with a wire in enamel insulation Ø 0,4-0,5 mm PEL or PEV 0,4-0,5. On a frame glued from pressboard, lay 150 turns.

Make the rotor core stacked from 18 individual disc plates Ø 40 mm. Drill a Ø 4 mm hole in the center of each plate. Then, from sheet iron with a thickness of about 2 mm, make two round templates. Slightly away from the edge, drill five Ø 8 mm holes in them at an equal distance from each other. Expand them with a round file to the dimensions indicated in figure 2 (pos. 7).

Rice. 2. Details of the electric motor (click to enlarge): 1 - brush holder, 2 - spring, 3 - brush, 4 - front pad, 5 - intermediate washer, 6 - manifold, 7 - rotor, 8 - shaft, 9 - stator, 10 - ball bearing No. 3, 11 - excitation coil, 12 - screw, 13 - rear pad.

Assemble all the plates on a threaded metal rod, and install templates around the edges. Using a vise, tighten the package tightly, secure with nuts and process on a lathe or a flat file, bringing the rotor diameter to 39 mm. Drill holes for winding with a round file, expand according to templates.

Disassemble the rotor, carefully deburr each plate and wash in acetone. Then cover each plate with shellac or BF-2 glue. Finally assemble the rotor so that the order of the plates in it remains the same. Put the rotor plates on a steel axis machined on a lathe. Pull them tightly between the templates with nuts and place them in a hot oven for an hour.

After that, wind the winding with PEL or PEV 0,4-0,5 wire. Start laying from the side of the longer end of the axle, making a 50 mm lead. Wind the first 50 turns through the first hole into the third (Fig. 3). Do not break the end of the wire, fold it, twisting slightly, in the form of a loop. Then wind another 50 turns with the same wire, but already between the second and fourth grooves. Loop again and continue winding in the same direction again, but this time between the third and fifth slots. Then - between the fourth and the first, the fifth and the second.

Rice. 3. Scheme of winding rotor windings

Connect the end of the last winding to the beginning of the first. Insert cardboard strips into the grooves left after winding to protect the insulation from damage.

Now make the manifold. It is a circle of insulating material, on which, without touching each other, FIVE conductive sectors are fixed. They are made from a copper washer sawn into five pieces. The sectors are glued to the circle with BF-2 glue so that the gaps between them are no more than 1 mm.

Dry the finished collector for 1-2 days, and then carefully clean it: when the rotor rotates, the brushes should slide over the surface of the plates without jamming.

Put the collector on the rotor axis and fix it in such a position that the middle of each sector is against the middle of the rotor groove. Then solder the ends of the rotor windings to the collector plates.

The arrangement of brushes and brush holders is shown in Figure 2.

Author: A.Valentinov

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