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FACTORY TECHNOLOGIES AT HOME - SIMPLE RECIPES
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Removing the most common stains from clothes. Simple recipes and tips

Factory technologies - simple recipes

Directory / Factory technology at home - simple recipes

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Как remove stains from clothes?

Sweat acts in most cases on fabrics as alkalis; acid reactions are rare. Sweat spots disappear after washing with a ten percent solution of tin chloride or a five percent solution of sodium sulphate (hyposulfite). Urine stains alkaline. The original paint is restored with diluted vinegar or a solution of citric acid. Strong alcohol also helps in many cases.

Blood stains are treated with a solution of borax, diluted with ammonia or soapy alcohol. If necessary, it is possible, after washing the fabric with water, to undertake an additional treatment with a two percent solution of an acidic oxalo-potassium salt.

Grass stains are removed with a XNUMX% stannous chloride solution, followed by rinsing with water.

Cocoa stains are treated with a small brush with soapy alcohol, then washed with water and, if necessary, repeat this operation several times. If this treatment does not lead to the desired result, you need to immerse the stain in ammonia, and then in hydrogen peroxide, then rinse with water. Chocolate stains are removed in the same way as cocoa stains. Stain removal

Stains from oil paints and varnishes can be very difficult to remove, especially if they are already dry. Old oil paint stains are considered difficult to remove also because there is no other solvent for dried (oxidized) linseed oil than boiling linseed oil. Tetralin is also a good solvent, it is best to apply tetralin-soaked paste on top and under the stains, leave it to dry, then remove it by shaking and brushing, repeating this procedure until the stain is completely removed.

Stearin, wax and similar stains are removed from the candle material, as far as possible, first carefully with a knife, then a wet piece of linen is placed under the stain, the stain itself is covered with a folded piece of filter paper or a layer of bolus, clay, etc. and then put a hot iron on top of it. The melted fat is absorbed by the paper. If necessary, this procedure is repeated until the stain is completely removed. This method can also remove oil, greasy and other stains.

Pitch stains should be covered with soft fat (lard, petroleum jelly, butter, margarine), and sometimes heated in order to make them softer and suitable for further processing with a solvent. They are then treated with carbon tetrachloride or chloroform (as a paste) and finally post-treated with soapy alcohol or washed in warm soapy water. The same method is suitable for removing fresh stains from oil paint.

When removing stains from wheel ointment, you need to pay attention to the composition of this ointment. In most cases, it is prepared from mineral oil, the consistency of which is increased by the addition of lime soap. Both mineral oil and lime soap dissolve in carbon tetrachloride; when removing such stains, this solvent should be used first of all, mainly in combination with clay, chalk, etc. If the wheel ointment contains tar oil, then you should first try to dissolve it with aniline or anthracene oil, and then treat with benzene. In most cases, a post-treatment with soap and water or soapy alcohol is used.

Stains from potassium bichromate or chromic acid are removed with a solution of sulfurous acid, disulfide sodium salt or a solution of sodium sulphate salt with the addition of a few drops of sulfuric acid. If necessary, a photographic developer diluted with water can also serve for this. After these solutions, you need to rinse the fabric well in water.

Stains from iron, rust and black ink are removed with a ten percent solution of acidic oxalic potassium salt. You can also use a strong solution of citric acid or stannous chloride. In addition to these products, you can wash the stain with a solution of 10 g of cream of tartar in 100 g of water, and then treat it with a five percent solution of sodium acetate and finally rinse well with water.

Stains from alizarin and aniline ink are in most cases removed with sap water, after which they should be treated with "antichlor" (sodium sulphate) and finally rinsed with clean water. If you don't have javelin water on hand, you can get away with a solution of bleach in water.

Kampesh ink stains are recognized by the fact that when immersed in hydrochloric acid diluted in half with water, they give a color that fluctuates between red, purple and yellow hues. Such ink stains are removed, if other methods have not given positive results, by immersion in a mixture of 25 g of wine alcohol, 25 g of ammonia and 30 g of water. After a quarter of an hour, they are washed in warm water, repeating the indicated procedure until the stain disappears completely.

Iron sulfate ink stains and ink nut stains are recognizable by the fact that they disappear when immersed in hydrochloric acid diluted half and half with water. To remove such stains, the contaminated area of ​​\u5b\u5bthe fabric is impregnated with table vinegar or alcohol containing approximately 95% acetic acid, or a mixture of XNUMX g of hydrochloric acid in XNUMX g of water. Five minutes after impregnation with this agent, a ten percent solution of acidic oxalic-potassium salt or tartaric acid is poured dropwise, then placed in water and washed. In more difficult cases, when it is not possible to remove ink from iron sulfate and ink nuts by conventional means, the stain is covered with a solution of potassium permanganate salt to destroy the coloring matter. The stain resulting from potassium permanganate salt on the fabric is removed with a solution of sodium sulphate and citric acid, after which the fabric is washed with water. In this way, many stubborn organic paint stains can be eliminated.

Iodine stains are removed with an eight-percent solution of sodium sulphate (hyposulfite), followed by washing with water. In other cases, it is useful to pre-treat the stain with a ten percent solution of potassium iodide before applying this solution. When removing iodine stains, you can also use alcohol or rubbing the fabric with starch, but both of these methods are worse than the above.

Stains from manganese (acidic potassium) are removed from the skin, linen and other material with a ten percent solution of oxalic acid (poisonous, be careful if there are injuries!) Or hydrochloric acid diluted in 10 parts by weight of water, followed by thorough washing. Sulfurous acid in an aqueous solution is also a good remedy for removing such a stain, which is obtained by mixing a XNUMX% solution of sodium sulphate with a few drops of hydrochloric acid, or by mixing a XNUMX% solution of sodium sulphate with a small amount of citric acid solution. Photographic developers can also be used to remove these stains, but are best when heavily diluted.

Stains from copper salts in most cases are eliminated with a neutral thirty percent solution of cadium iodide; if the stains are not removed in this way, then they are immersed, if the material allows, in acetic acid, left for several minutes in acid, and then rinsed with a twenty percent solution of common salt.

Stains from picric acid are treated with a twenty percent solution of potassium sulfide or sodium sulfide, washed with water and: if necessary, soap. Fresh spots of picric acid disappear after covering them with a slurry of magnesium carbonate and water, and after 5-10 minutes the slurry is rubbed on the stain, then rinsed and washed with soapy water. A good result can sometimes be obtained by washing the stain again with a solution of grape sugar.

Fresh protargolid spots are washed out with a strong soapy solution. Old stains are treated with a 10% solution of potassium iodide or a XNUMX% solution of persulfur ammonium salt (ammonium persulfate) or a XNUMX% solution of sodium sulphate. Expose the material to one of these solutions for XNUMX minutes, rinse with water, soften in a strong soapy solution and finally wash.

Pyrogallol stains are first treated with a ten percent solution of iron sulphate until the stain becomes black and blue. Then thoroughly rinse the material with water and quickly treat the stain with a twenty percent solution of acidic oxalic potassium salt (poisonous!) And rinse again with water. Pyrogallol spots on the fingers are removed with a solution of 2 g of citric acid and 8 g of sodium sulfate in 100 g of water.

Resorcinol spots are removed by treatment with a twenty percent solution of citric acid.

Stains from silver salts (silver nitrate, etc.) are removed by immersing the stain first in a one percent solution of potassium cyanide (very poisonous !!!) and after five minutes in a ten percent solution of sodium sulphate. In addition, you can remove the stain by immersion in a ten percent solution of potassium iodide, let it dry, and then wash the resulting yellow stain with a ten percent solution of sodium sulphate (hyposulfite). You can also remove such stains with a solution of 2 g of sublimate (poisonous!) And 20 g of table salt in 300 g of water. After removing the stain, the fabric is thoroughly washed in clean water.

Author: Korolev V.A.

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