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WONDERS OF NATURE
Dombai meadow. Nature miracle
Almost in the middle of the Greater Caucasus, the double-headed snow cap of the highest peak in Russia, Elbrus, rises proudly. Stormy mountain rivers scatter in three directions from its foot: to the northeast - the swift Baksan, beloved by skiers, to the north - angrily seething Malka, and to the northwest - the cheerful talkative Kuban. The most non-trivial, but also the most difficult way to the "crown of the Caucasus" runs along its valley, but it is spared from the crowds and bustle of the Baksan Gorge. And less than a hundred kilometers from the source, near Karachaevsk, its most beautiful tributary, the Teberda River, flows into the Kuban, along which the Sukhum Military Road rises to the transcendental passes of the Main Caucasian Range.
The famous Transcaucasian route once ran here, allowing you to enjoy the romance of the mountains, and then, descending from the Klukhor Pass, in a couple of days go to the fertile Black Sea subtropics and soak up plenty on the hot beaches of Abkhazia, rewarding for the difficult traverses of the snowy slopes of Klukhor. Now the Russian-Georgian border has passed through the pass, and the Military-Sukhumi road no longer attracts tourists, as it used to. But now, many have discovered that very close, some thirty kilometers from the Klukhorsky pass, is one of the most picturesque mountain valleys of the Caucasus - Dombai. And so the circle endsRemember, hope, miss - Snow flags parting Posted the old Dombay. The lines of this old Vizbor song immediately come to mind at the mention of this pearl of the Caucasus Mountains. And not only the highest four-kilometer peak of Ulgen in these places is glorified by bards and artists. Songs about Alibek and Belalakaya, Teberda and Sulakhat, Klukhor and Amanauz are also heard around the campfire. Here, on the Dombay glade, at an altitude of 1630 meters above sea level, one breathes and sings easily. An emerald bowl, hidden between the rocky masses of the two highest Caucasian ridges - the Main and the Side, looks from above the Dombay intermountain basin (this is how geographers officially call it). Noisy mountain rivers Alibek, Amanauz and Dombay-Ulgen run to it from three sides in order to join forces to break through the mountains to the north, to Teberda. The huge glade, formed at the confluence of four valleys, strikes with its majestic beauty. From three sides, wooded slopes converge to it like an amphitheater, above which eight snowy peaks rise for three and a half - four kilometers at once. And every mountain is beautiful in its own way. The slender, elongated pyramid of Ine Peak does not look like the mighty massive Dombay-Ulgen, bared with a black rocky tooth of Sofriju - on the intricately indented crest of the Sulakhat peak, and the rounded contours of Mount Semenov-Bashi - on the steep impregnable Belalakai, somewhat reminiscent of the Alpine Matterhorn. Most tourists know only the winter Dombai - the country of a snow-white fairy tale, desperate skiers, frozen waterfalls, scorching mountain sun and majestic celestial peaks. Meanwhile, in summer, Dombay is a hundred times more beautiful. Marvelous spruce and beech forests, occupying the bottom of the meadow and the lower part of the slopes, literally amaze with their power. Gigantic columns of beech trunks, three girths thick and up to forty meters high, seem to go straight to the sky. Spruce and fir reach no smaller sizes. Particularly charming, contrasting with the shady paths at the foot of the green giants, are alpine meadows full of sun, space, bird singing and the scent of flowers. But this seems to be not enough for true travelers, and the most trained of them climb even higher, to the glaciers, from which they run down to Dombai, ringing streams and rivers, now and then breaking down like waterfalls from the steep steps of their rocky bed. However, the Alibek glacier, violating all geographical laws, descends right to the border of the forest, so it will not be difficult for an inexperienced tourist to get to it. At the same time, he will have the opportunity to admire the most beautiful waterfall in Dombai, also named after Alibek. It is not high - only ten meters, but surprisingly picturesque, especially on a sunny day, when the seething jets, falling from ledge to ledge and splitting and scattering in small sprays, shimmer in the rays of Methyl with hundreds of tiny rainbow sparks. And if the traveler climbs the gloomy rocky canyon of the Amanauz River, he will meet with the Amanauz waterfall, which produces a completely different impression than Alibek - formidable and ominous. There are also many beautiful mountain lakes in the vicinity of Dombay, and, really, it is difficult to decide which of them is more picturesque. The age-old forests surrounding them give originality to the Badug lakes, and Tumanly-Kel Lake, lying by the Sukhum Military Road framed by dark rocky slopes and snowy peaks, enchants with amazingly blue water, contrasting with the greenery of the grasses on the shore and the black and gray mountains around. The high-mountainous Klukhor Lake, around which there is only snow and rocks, strikes with a completely different - severe and solemn beauty. As a rule, having enjoyed the beauty of Dombai, the traveler seeks to visit the Klukhor Pass. To the Northern Shelter - a small camp site at the foot of the pass, where the road ends, is only thirty-four kilometers from the Dombay glade. The guidebooks of the beginning of the XNUMXth century wrote enthusiastically about the picturesqueness of this segment of the Sukhumi Military Road. "The Sukhumi military road ... is remarkably picturesque and interesting, but the journey along it can only be made on horseback in six to seven days. At the same time, the traveler, in gratitude for the hardships endured, will be rewarded nowhere else with views that are not visible and never forgotten ..." - says one of them. No less miracles await the tourist who has managed to overcome the border realities, and on the Georgian side of the ridge, beyond the Klukhorsky pass. Here the 250-meter cascade of Shakuran waterfalls falls from the Tsebelda Highlands, here is the second largest alpine lake Amtkel after Ritsa, formed in 1891 after a monstrous collapse blocked the river of the same name. Caves and grottoes are hidden in the rocks of the Kodori Gorge, fifteen thousand years ago they served as a shelter for our ancestors. From some caves, small rivers break out to the surface, and at the Southern Shelter a mineral spring beats out from under the rock, reminiscent of the famous narzan with the taste of water. However, not everyone can cross the Klukhor. It requires a whole day of strenuous walking and climbing to a height of two thousand eight hundred meters, and on the south side you will have to fight your way through a steep snowfield, so you need an ice ax or alpenstock for insurance. Another pearl of the Caucasus - Arkhyz - is located just fifty kilometers west of Dombay. But the route to this beautiful valley will pass through three passes and take at least four days. Arkhyz is located at the confluence of the valleys of the Kizgich, Psysh, Arkhyz and Sofia rivers. In terms of natural conditions, it will not yield to Dombai, although, of course, you will not find such beautiful snowy peaks here. But in Arkhyz ferruginous mineral springs beat, and the valley itself is more open, spacious and, so to speak, "homely". But the harsh grandeur of the Dombai mountains, the variety of natural attractions and the ability to easily get to several neighboring tourist centers at once, no doubt, make the Dombay glade the most attractive place in the tourist Caucasus. And returning home, travelers (some mentally, and some aloud) sing the lines of the simple and gentle song of Vizbor, an old companion of Caucasian tourists, climbers and skiers: Hello gloomy days Author: B.Wagner
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