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TOURIST ADVICE
Weekend tent. Travel Tips
Sold in domestic stores tents with an awning they are heavy (usually about 3 kg), and without an awning they do not protect well from rain. Imported ones are lighter and better, but expensive. Therefore, some tourists themselves make tents from thin nylon in combination with an awning made of waterproof material. However, the awning complicates the design of the tent, makes it heavier and increases the time of "breaking down", and the total cost remains high. I am a tourist with great experience and used different industrial tents for hiking of varying difficulty. This experience allowed me to design and build a lightweight, rain-proof and quick-to-set two-man tent out of ordinary plastic sheeting. It is quite convenient, cheap and quite suitable for weekend trips. Its simple design and uncomplicated manufacturing technology make it possible to independently sew this "bivouac" even for a person who has only basic tailoring skills.
In addition to the film, you will also need a light cotton fabric for the ends of the tent and polyethylene flooring and adhesive tape such as "adhesive tape" to seal the seams. The roof of the tent is best made from an opaque milky white or colored film. If an ordinary transparent film is used, then it must be "duplicated" from the inside with gauze, which will make the tent opaque, prevent the "greenhouse effect" on a hot sunny day and reduce vapor condensation in cold weather.
To simplify cutting and sewing, the tent is designed in the form of a hut (without vertical side walls). This design is more resistant to wind and reduces the number of "air" guy lines with pegs from the usual eight to two butt, which speeds up its installation and removal. The height of the ridge is the same as most two-person tents. The floor is made somewhat wider to compensate for the decrease in volume due to the lack of vertical side walls. The drawings show the dimensions and stitching lines of all the main parts of the tent - the floor, roof, ends and peaks. The polyethylene film of the floor is covered from the inside with a fabric, which is sewn with it on a typewriter every 300-350 mm in two mutually perpendicular directions. Then a strip of adhesive tape about 30 mm wide is glued to each seam from the side of the film. By reinforcing the seams and protecting them from water, the tape also increases the overall strength of the floor and other elements of the product. Before sealing the seams of the tent with tape, the surface of the film on which the tape is glued must be cleaned with acetone or gasoline. In this case, it must be borne in mind that the tape is unwound from the reel with some effort and at the same time stretches. If you stick it on the seam right there, then after a while folds will appear, which you can get rid of only by cutting the "adhesive tape" and sticking additional pieces of it. Therefore, having unwound a piece of tape from the reel, it is necessary to wait 1-2 minutes for its stabilization along the length.
In the corners of the floor (on the continuation of the diagonals) and in the middle of its side edges (outside, perpendicular to them), six stretch marks are sewn from pieces of nylon trouser tape. Holes are subsequently made in them for stretching and fixing the floor to the ground with studs. The same pieces of braid are sewn in the appropriate places on the roof. In addition, long strips of braid are sewn to the roof: in the middle - ridge, turning into longitudinal extensions, and along the end edges, to which end panels (pediments) are then sewn. The lower corner parts of the roof are "reinforced" with strips of "adhesive tape", which are glued perpendicular to the diagonal braces, passing through their beginning. To strengthen the upper corners of the roof in the places where the racks are installed, polyethylene linings 2-3 mm thick are used. If the roof is made of transparent polyethylene, which is "shaded" with gauze, then the film is sewn with gauze, and the seams are sealed with adhesive tape in the same way as is done in the manufacture of the floor. In this case, the "adhesive tape" that reinforces the lower corners can be omitted. When preparing the fabric ends of the tent, you should cut their edges on a typewriter and sew two plastic zippers into the entrance end with locks in different directions. If desired, windows made of nylon mesh with flaps closing them and pockets for small items are sewn on the ends. Canopy blanks are cut from the same polyethylene film as the floor and roof. Pieces of nylon braid (stretch marks) are sewn onto their lower outer corners to fasten the peaks to the ground with pins, and the outer edges are reinforced with adhesive tape. The prepared parts and details of the tent are connected in the following sequence. First, the floor is sewn with overhead seams to the bottom of the roof and to the nylon braid previously sewn onto the edges of the roof, then the ends are sewn on. The latter are also attached to the floor overlaps. The places where the ends meet the floor and the roof in the corners of the tent are sewn up by hand during the trial setting of the tent. The peaks are adjusted to the end edges of the roof, and the seams are glued on the outside with adhesive tape. Before connecting the parts of the visors, it is advisable to place the extensions of the ridge braid (stretch marks) so that they are then attached to the ground at an angle of approximately 45 °, and outline the line for joining the parts of the visors. After stitching the parts, the seams and the "free" edges of the visors are pasted over with "adhesive tape". When setting up a tent for a trial, it is necessary to clarify the locations of the holes for the studs on the floor extensions. They should line up with the holes in the roof braces so that each stud has a good tension and hold on both the floor and the roof. In the future, after a good fit, for the convenience of setting up a tent, stretching the floor and roof should be sewn in pairs. The mass of the tent in the above version does not exceed 1,5 kg. Of these, a little more than 700 g is "pulled" by a polyethylene film (10,5 mg with a weight of 70 g/mg). Cotton ends with an area of 5,5 m2 from the same fabric, depending on the thickness of the material, weigh 300-500 g. The rest of the mass is made up of adhesive tape, nylon braid and "zippers" If the transparent film of the roof of the tent is duplicated with gauze (40 g / mg), then the tent is weighted by another 250 grams. Studs 150 mm long are best made from steel wire with a diameter of 3 mm. Together with two duralumin pegs, they will "pull" about the same amount as gauze. The tent is put up in the following sequence. First, the floor is straightened and strengthened with six studs (in pairs on each side). Then the roof rises on the racks and, with the help of two pegs, ridge extensions are pulled from opposite ends. Peaks are pinned to the ground last in a taut position. The design scheme of the tent allows you to easily change its size if necessary. To do this, you only need to increase or slightly reduce the length of the floor and roof (1900 mm) shown in the figures to the desired one. For better protection of the ends of the tent from "oblique" rain with the wind, you can also increase the peaks, while taking into account the convenience of entry and exit. Using the tent in various trips, we were convinced of its sufficient reliability. It should be noted that the strength of this polyethylene film is not so small as it seems at first glance. For clarity, we can recall how young anglers carry fish in a bag filled with several liters of water: after all, the strength of polyethylene is 150 kg / cm2. This means that a 10 mm wide film tape can withstand a load of up to 1 kg (the thickness of a conventional film is 0,06-0,08 mm). However, it should be remembered that the film is easily pierced and cut with sharp objects. In this case, you should always have a spool of adhesive tape with you for urgent repairs. Author: N.Ivanov, St. Petersburg
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