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PERSONAL TRANSPORT: GROUND, WATER, AIR
Car body repair. Personal transport
Directory / Personal transport: land, water, air It is known that when repairing cars, body work is the most common and time-consuming. Most often, purely copper methods are used in this case, leveling the mutilated steel shell with the help of mallets, rubber or polyurethane hammers, and finishing operations are carried out by soldering tin or lead. I can say that I abandoned this technology a long time ago in favor of the technology worked out on dozens of dents and holes using epoxy resin, filler and fiberglass. First of all, the wing (however, like any other element of the shell of the machine) is straightened, and it is not necessary to bring its outer surface to an ideal state. The main thing is that there is no metal protruding beyond the surface, which should be the result of the repair. On the contrary, in many cases it is better to deliberately underestimate the surface in order to be able to apply an epoxy-glass cloth patch of appreciable thickness to it. If the wing has not only dents, but also tears or rusty places, then this is not a problem. It is only necessary to cut out the corroded and carefully clean the rust-affected areas. In this case, I recommend using a rust converter and a steel brush. I have often heard from motorists talking about the fact that under the "epoxy" the metal is actively rusting. Indeed, many have observed such an effect, but it is not "epoxy" that is to blame for this, but ignorance of the technology for working with this material. To ensure reliable contact of the epoxy binder - epoxy putty or epoxy resin itself in combination with fiberglass - the following technology must be followed. To begin with, the part of the metal shell to be repaired is thoroughly cleaned of old paint and primer, treated with a rust converter, and then cleaned to a shine with Durex sandpaper or abrasive wheels. Immediately, within a few minutes of stripping, the surface is smeared with a compound of epoxy resin with a hardener added to it (usual ratio is 1:8 to 1:10, although some types of epoxy resins are diluted in other ratios of resin and hardener, so before work, specify the method of preparation on the label or the inscription on the box) with the addition of acetone or solvent No. 646 - to the density of ordinary nitro paint. After application, the solvent or acetone evaporates, and a film of a relatively slowly polymerizing resin remains on the metal surface, protecting the metal from oxidation. No need to wait until the resin is completely cured. Almost immediately, you can begin to seal the bumps and holes. Of course, it is better to prepare fiberglass flaps and some resin in advance. I do not advise you to dilute the resin at once for the entire volume of work - it is better to do this in portions of 100 ... 200 ml: in large volumes, "epoxy" is prone to self-heating and spontaneous polymerization. And one more thing: if the work is supposed to be long, put the container with the prepared resin in a bowl of ice or snow - this will delay the polymerization for several hours.
The repair begins with the fact that the area to be restored is smeared with resin (this time ordinary, without acetone), after which a piece of fiberglass is applied, and it is smeared over with resin again. It is best to use a stiff brush to apply the resin.
Then you can proceed in two ways. The first one is filling the depressed places with flaps of the same fiberglass with resin coating until the layer thickness is brought to the contour (or rather, slightly exceed it), which must be obtained after repair. And the second way is to apply epoxy putty on top of the first layer of fiberglass, consisting of epoxy and any dust-like filler - tooth powder, talc, cement, etc. After applying the putty (the criterion is still the same - its layer should only protrude slightly above the future surface contour , which is easy to control with a flexible rail or a template pre-cut from plywood), the surface is sealed with another piece of fiberglass. If the shell was torn, it makes sense to also glue several layers of fiberglass on the inside of it in order to get a kind of lock that prevents the zappata from peeling off.
Further, for both the first and second methods, the following finishing operation can be recommended. A polyethylene film is immediately applied over the epoxy composition, after which the still plastic epoxy putty or fiberglass molded to the metal should be carefully smoothed out in accordance with the shape of the wing or other part of the machine shell. In this case, you can use a piece of laminated plastic or sheet metal (they press the zappatu), rubber spatulas and just your hands - preferably with cloth gloves. Excess resin is easily squeezed out and removed during the polymerization process. If you haven't "overboiled" the hardener, you will have at least a couple of hours to calmly bring the surface under the film to perfect condition. In conclusion, the film is stretched over the surface of the repaired part of the body and fixed with adhesive tape or vinyl tape. The next day, the polyethylene protective film will easily separate from the surface of the resin - and you will see a glossy, as if polished, surface that practically does not require any additional processing. Author: S.Evstratov
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