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PERSONAL TRANSPORT: GROUND, WATER, AIR
On a board with a sail. Personal transport
Directory / Personal transport: land, water, air Of course, some people are able to buy a sailboard in the store. However, for most, this is not affordable. They will probably want to do it themselves. Moreover, the design of a super-complex form is not proposed here. Simplified contours and the classic manufacturing technology of small boats are quite suitable for a pleasure board. So, to business. Let's start, of course, with the main thing. FRAME. To begin with, on a sheet of graph paper, whatman paper or any other paper, in accordance with the theoretical drawing of the case, a plas - cross sections are drawn. To determine the true dimensions of the sections, use the scale bar shown below the drawing. Please note that the theoretical drawing shows the outer contours of the board, therefore, when drawing the frames, their contours must be underestimated by the thickness of the skin.
Further, the outlines of the frames are transferred to blanks made of plywood 12 mm thick or from a board 15 ... 20 mm thick, from which the details of the transverse hull set are cut. In the corners of each of the frames, grooves are selected for the rails of the longitudinal set, as well as holes for draining the water that has entered the hull - the scupper. The next step is to prepare the slipway for assembling the hull. In principle, it can be a flat board 50 ... 60 mm thick and 250 ... 300 mm wide, fixed on the workshop floor or on several feet. To begin with, a keel beam with a section of 20x40 mm is fixed on the slipway with the help of linings made of wooden bars; its profile when viewed from the side should correspond to the theoretical drawing. On the keel beam at a distance of 400 mm from each other, the planes of the frames are marked, after which the latter are temporarily fixed on the keel with the help of carnations and wooden blocks. Now stringers are being prepared - pine slats with a section of 20x20 mm. If you cannot find the blanks of the required length, join two by cutting off the bars "by the mustache" and connecting them with epoxy glue. Next, the stringers are successively fitted to each of the frames and then fixed with epoxy glue and screws. In this case, it is desirable to use brass or galvanized steel screws. After the epoxy has cured, the outer contours of the frames and stringers are aligned in accordance with the theoretical drawing. In this case, it is necessary to use a flexible rail as a control tool, and a planer, rasp and coarse-grained sandpaper as a processing tool. Two duralumin pipes with an outer diameter of 22 mm and a wall thickness of 2,5 mm are glued into the frame prepared in this way, into which screws and fins will be attached. Sheathing of the frame of the sailboard is made of plywood 3 mm thick or hardboard 4 mm thick. Fastening sheet blanks on the frame - with small galvanized nails and epoxy glue, into which wood flour is introduced (talcum powder, baby mail or tooth powder is also suitable) to somewhat reduce the fluidity of the epoxy and thereby ensure the continuity of the adhesive seam. Sheathing should start from the bottom. Then the sides are sheathed and, last but not least, the deck. Please note that before deck plating, all internal parts of the hull - both plating and frame - must be covered with several layers of hot drying oil or parquet varnish - this will help them become water resistant. In the same way, deck blanks are varnished from the inside, and only after that they are installed in the places intended for them. In the area where the windsurfer is located, the deck is reinforced with two strips of plywood or hardboard. After curing the epoxy binder, the body is sanded, all sharp edges are smoothly rounded, and the joints are puttied with a composition of epoxy and all the same wood flour, talc or tooth powder. Having finished the body, glue it with a layer of fiberglass on epoxy glue, sand it again and paint it with bright enamel paints. In the area where the athlete is located, apply a rough coating - small sawdust is poured over the freshly painted deck reinforcement strips using a fine sieve. After the paint has dried, the excess sawdust is removed, and another layer of enamel is applied over the sawdust that has adhered to the paint underlayer. And finally, install a step on the deck - a steel sleeve in which the mast spur is fixed. In the rear part of the hull, in the transom board, one or two plugs are provided. The fact is that it is almost impossible to create a completely sealed hull, and so that the water penetrating into it can be drained after the next voyage, there are holes with plugs. The holes in the transom board must be contoured with pieces of aluminum tube of a suitable diameter. SCHVERTS. For their manufacture, a board with a thickness of about 20 mm and a width of 250 mm is required. The shape of the schwertz is shown in one of our drawings. The underwater part of the shverts is profiled - its cross section resembles the symmetrical profile of an aircraft wing, the maximum thickness of the section is approximately 1/3 of its width. After the final processing, the screws are pasted over with a layer of thin fiberglass on an epoxy binder, sanded, primed and painted. The axis of rotation of the screw is a galvanized or cadmium-plated steel pin. At one end, a thread is cut, and the axis is fixed on the screw with two nuts.
In their working position, the screws are held with the help of a rubber brace and a stop. Please note that shallow water is not dangerous for a sailboard with shverts of this design: on the shallows, the shverts simply deviate back. FIN. This part of the sailboat is fixed at the back of the sailboard. Like Shvertsov, there are two of them on the boat - right and left. Fins are cut out of ten-millimeter plywood. Their cross section is a pterygoid symmetrical profile. These parts are processed in the same way as the screws. They are fixed on the sailboard using a simple device consisting of a threaded stud and a cylindrical rubber plug, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the pipe glued into the back of the hull. To begin with, the cork is put on a stud and slightly compressed between two nuts and washers, after which it is inserted into the pipe. Next, the outer nut is tightened, while the rubber plug is squeezed, increases its diameter and is firmly wedged inside the pipe. It remains only to put the fin on the protruding hairpin and secure it with a nut. MAST. Best of all, of course, if you can get a four-meter piece of duralumin pipe with an outer diameter of 40 mm and a wall thickness of 1,5 mm for the mast. A good mast is also obtained from a pine bar with a section of 50x50 mm. Such a mast is planed in the form of a cone with a lower base diameter of about 50 mm and an upper base diameter of about 30 mm. After the final processing, such a mast is pasted over with two layers of fiberglass on epoxy glue. There is another way to make a mast - by gluing from an epoxy binder and fiberglass. To do this, a conical rod is first made - exactly the same as the wooden mast, which we just mentioned. Further, this mast is tightly wrapped with polyethylene tape - a panel about 200 mm wide, cut out of polyethylene film and twisted into a roll like a bandage. At the beginning and end of the winding, the tape is fixed with adhesive tape. Next, the mast is pasted over in several layers with long (preferably the length of the entire mast) strips of fiberglass; The total thickness of the gluing should be about 3 mm. Without waiting for the binder to cure, once again tightly bandage the mast over the fiberglass with a polyethylene "bandage" and leave it in this position for a day. After the epoxy resin has cured, the adhesive is removed from the blank. This operation is not easy, you may have to use a small car winch or the old grandfather's way, tying a blank and pasting with nylon ropes or cables to two poles 10 ... 15 m apart. If you strongly press the rope from the side, the blank will shift relative to the pasting, after which the latter can be easily removed. It remains to insert wooden plugs on epoxy glue into the cone pipe from above and from below - and the mast is ready. MAST HINGE. By definition, a sailboard is a vessel with a free sail. In other words, the hull of the sailboat is connected to the mast using a cardan joint. To make it, you will need two pieces of pipe (its inner diameter must correspond to the thickness of the mast in its lower part). Two forks are cut out of the blanks, as shown in our figure, which are connected using a thick washer (cracker) and four bolts. A bottom is welded to the smaller fork, and a steel pin is welded to it, with the help of which the mast is fixed in the socket on the deck. The large fork is attached to the bottom of the mast with screws and epoxy.
WISHBON. This name is given to a curved metal or wooden gigock, with the help of which the sail takes the necessary shape, and the windsurfer controls the boat, holding on to this single "lever" with his hands. To make a wishbone, you will need a pair of duralumin pipes or round wooden slats with a diameter of about 30 mm. In front of the wishbone, two half-collars are fixed, cut from beech bars of a suitable size. Between themselves, they are connected using a hinge - a bracket made of steel wire with a diameter of 5 mm. In the rear part of the wishbone halves are joined with a bolt and a wing nut. Half clamps are pasted over with porous rubber or felt from the inside.
SAIL. The easiest way, of course, is to buy a ready-made sail in the Sport store. However, it is not too difficult to sew it yourself. Bologna fabric, cushion teak, dacron-type fabric, as well as home-made composites based on the cheapest satin and polyethylene film, welded together with an electric iron, are suitable for it.
The manufacture of the sail begins with a breakdown on a flat area of the floor of the base triangle in accordance with our drawing (triangle ABC). Then, on the front, back and lower luffs of the sail, the sizes of the so-called sickles are deposited, after which smooth curves are drawn on the plaza using a long flexible rail, connecting the head angle with the clew, the tack with the head and the clew with the tack. And at the end of the markup, the contours of the latpockets and a transparent window are applied to the plaza. Now - marking the seams. It is conducted from the base seam, which is a perpendicular to the back side of the base triangle, lowered from the tack of the sail. Well, the rest of the seams are outlined parallel to the base with a step slightly smaller than the width of the fabric used. Remember: in order for a sail to pull well, that is, to have a high aerodynamic quality, it is necessary that it have a so-called "belly". This can be achieved if, when cutting out panels, the seam lines are made not straight, but convex, with a curvature of 30 ... 40 mm. Then, after stitching, we will get the much-needed belly." It is most convenient to stitch the panels with a zigzag seam. Then the sail is cut along the contours of the luffs, after which the patch pockets are basted and attached, and only then the edges of the sail are closed with a cotton or synthetic tape. The mast pocket is best cut out of a thicker fabric than went to the sail, for example, awning, tent, etc. All corners of the sail are reinforced with durable canvas overlays; brass eyelets are closed in the tack and clew corners or a metal ring is sewn with the help of nylon threads, after which the fabric is cut through inside the ring. The hole in the tack of the sail is designed for stuffing (stretching) the sail on the mast, the hole in the clew is for pulling the sail between the mast and the wishbone. Armor is cut from thin wooden strips - it is best to use wooden school rulers for this. By the way, good armor is obtained from W-shaped polystyrene profiles used as guide rails for sliding windows in sideboards, bookshelves, etc. So, everything is ready. The sailboard is fully equipped - the screws and fins are fixed on it, the sail is also prepared - fixed to the mast with nylon shkertiki, and in front of the whishbone the start sheet is securely tied - a nylon or linen end with half a dozen knots tied on it. To begin with, lower the board (without a sail!) into the water, making sure that the drain plugs are closed in the transom. Climb onto the board, stand on it to your full height and practice for a while - look for the limits of possible movements both back and forth, and to the right and left of the diametrical plane. Remember the position of your feet when the board starts to flip over, and try not to cross that line in the future. If you already feel quite confident on the board, you can move on to training with a sail. To begin with, however, you need to properly equip yourself: put on woolen socks and sneakers, as well as a life jacket. Such equipment must be worn without fail: at first, you will often fall, and sneakers with woolen socks will protect your legs from injury; the purpose of the life jacket, as it seems, can not be specified. So, you are fully equipped. Launch the sail board again, insert the mast spurs into the steps - the sleeve on the deck - and put the sail on the water. Then stand on the board so that the wind blows at your back, and the sail is located on the water on the leeward side. Now grab the start sheet and pull the sail out of the water. This is not easy to do, the fabric "sticks" to the surface of the water, so the first movements to raise the mast must be strong and sharp. After pulling the sail out of the water, gently raise it until you can grab hold of the winchbon. It is best to start moving when the wind blows at right angles to the longitudinal axis of the board - such a course is called a gulfwind. First, set the sail so that its angle relative to the longitudinal axis is about 45 °. The board will begin to move and most likely begin to immediately veer away from the course you have chosen. To change the direction of movement, try tilting the sail forward or backward - in this case, the center of windage and the center of lateral resistance of the hull will change their relative position, a moment of forces will appear, turning the sailboat, and it will change course. Continue to maintain direction by tilting the sail forward or back. A turn for sailing ships is considered to be the crossing of the wind line with its bow or stern. So, when the wind line is crossed by the stern of the sailboat, the turn is called a jibe, but if the wind line is crossed by the bow of the sailboat, the turn is called a tack. When turning, the sail is thrown from one side to the other: to ensure this, the windsurfer either throws the whiskbone from one side to the other, while moving to the opposite side of the sailboard in front of the mast, or throws the sail from one side to the other over the bow of the sailboard. I would like to warn you that the experience of managing a windsurfer does not come immediately. More than once you will have to swim, over and over again pulling a heavy sail out of the water after that. However, the tremendous pleasure that you will receive, having fully mastered the wayward sailboard, cannot be compared with any other pleasure.
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