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Fishing glider. Personal transport

Personal transport: land, water, air

Directory / Personal transport: land, water, air

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For successful fishing, it would be nice if luck was added to good gear, and even more so; as the saying goes, "you need to know the place." And if luck is a fickle thing, then I knew the places where the fish are found. However, it was sometimes difficult to get to them both on horseback and even on foot. and there was only one way - by water. However, for this, at least some kind of watercraft was needed. So I decided to make a simple fishing boat.

Before starting the construction of the boat (or rather, before designing), he formulated the main desired requirements for it: 1 - stability; 2 - unsinkability; 3 - structural rigidity; 4 economy of running under the outboard motor, 5 - light weight; 6 - transportability; 7 - sufficient displacement {carrying capacity); 8 - maneuverability; 9 - durability.

There are a lot of requirements, and some of them. moreover, they contradicted each other, which forced them to seek a compromise between them. This is partly why the boat is made of different materials: metal (duralumin) and wood. Maneuverability was sacrificed to some extent for stability, and capacity (displacement) for small dimensions in order to be portable.

As you know, a boat can float on water in a displacement mode (as, for example, self-propelled barges float) or plan (like speedboats). At low speeds, swimming in the first mode is economical. But at relatively high speeds, such a regime is acceptable only with a sufficiently large ratio of the length of the vessel to its width (1/10 and above), and for small boats, the planing regime is economical. True, for this it is necessary that for every 25 kg of the mass of the boat with all the contents in it, there should be at least 1 hp. outboard motor power. But to this! indicator, by all estimates, I went out easily.

Based on this, he began to design a boat. It was most rational to give its bottom such a shape, thanks to which the hull itself would rise above the water with an increase in speed, that is, so that the boat could easily go out on planing. This form is known - redannaya. But making a ledge in the bottom in a home workshop is a rather difficult job, and moving along a stepped bottom is not very convenient. Therefore, I settled on a simpler flat-bottomed "ski" (with a raised bow) version - after all, it’s not to participate in races on this boat.

fishing glider

fishing glider
Homemade fishing boat: left - rear view; right - front view

As a result, a simple one was built. but a durable boat for intensive use with a long service life, requiring virtually no maintenance and no special storage conditions.

The boat structurally consists of two parts: the closed bow end - the forepeak, and the rest of the open part - the cockpit.

The hull of the boat is made mainly of duralumin sheets. For the bottom, a 1,6 mm thick sheet was used. and for the sides, transom, bulkhead and front of the bottom 1 mm thick. All of the listed parts are one-piece (each cut from one sheet), although nothing prevents the bottom and sides from being riveted from composite panels by making a joint at the place where the bulkhead is attached to them (just do not forget to add 20 mm allowances on both joined blanks). At the same time, a bottom thickness of 1,6 mm is needed only in the cockpit, and a millimeter sheet can also be used in the forepeak.

It also took 15 linear meters of aluminum corners with shelf dimensions of 20x20x2 mm and about 1000 pieces of aviation rivets with a diameter of 3,5x10 mm. I don’t take fir boards and galvanized self-tapping screws into account (such or similar materials are always at hand for do-it-yourselfers).

The use of these materials ensured the lightness and sufficient strength of the structure. In addition, they (materials) are relatively easy to cut and process. True, joining parts with rivets is a laborious method and requires experience, but I had it and had better time. In addition, now there are many good devices on sale that increase the productivity and quality of riveting.

fishing glider
Fisherman's boat (click to enlarge): 1 - bottom (duralumin sheet s1,6); 2 - seat-bank (fir board 160x20); 3 - bracket for installing the seat-beam (duralumin corner 30x30x2,5, 2 pcs.); 4 - internal corner pad (duralumin, sheet s3, 4 pcs.); 5 - oarlock socket; 6 - a clamp for fastening a gas tank and canisters (aluminum strip 20x2. 3 pcs.); 7 - deck flooring (duralumin sheet s1); 8 - forepeak cover (duralumin sheet s1); 9 - handle-eye (pipe Ø10); 10 - longitudinal deck beam - carlings (fir board 80x20); 11 - transverse deck beam-beam (fir board 80x20); 12 - tackle box; 13 - board (duralumin sheet s1,2 pieces); 14 - outer corner pad (s3, 2 pcs.); 15 - gunwale (fir board 125x20, 2 pieces); 16 - stand-pillers cans-seats; 17 - bulkhead (duralumin sheet s1); 18 - bulkhead gloss (fir board 140x20); 19 - connecting frame moment (duralumin corner 20x20x2); 20 - transom board (fir board 135x20); 21 - under-engine lining (steel, sheet s2); 22 - shock-absorbing block (hard rubber 60x30x20); 23 - rivet Ø3; 24 - self-tapping screw; 25 - faces (dural sheet s1)

fishing glider
Mounting the rack (pillers) under the seat (can): 1 - seat; 2 - fasteners of the thrust flange (screw, 4 pcs.); 3 - thrust flange (duralumin, circle 60); 4 - rack-pilers (duralumin tube Ø20); 5 - peg (aluminum rivet Ø10); 6 - thrust washer (duralumin, sheet s3); 7 - the bottom of the boat

fishing glider
Patterns of the main parts of the body (items of the parts coincide with the general view drawing) (click to enlarge)

Corners are used in the structure as elements by which individual parts (panels) are connected to each other and into a single structure. At the same time, they also serve as shaping (framework) elements and even partly as power ones. But the main load is carried by the hull of the boat.

Fir boards (you can use wood and other conifers), laid on edge, surrounded by the entire cockpit. This cast-off also serves as a cockpit frame (gives rigidity to the upper free edges of the panels, preventing them from bending). and increasing at the same time! board height. In addition, the transom board serves as a support for the outboard motor. and onboard - for oarlocks of oars and also play the role of both pillers and fenders.

The corners for the cheekbones of the hull of the boat (the lines of docking of the sides and the bottom) are slightly unbent at an appropriate obtuse angle and, if necessary, straightened.

The connection of duralumin sheets with corners below the waterline is carried out with the installation of rivets in two rows in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 15 mm, and above it - in one row with a step of 20 mm.

A thin layer of mastic is laid in the seam. It is necessary to ensure that no debris or metal filings get into the joint.

The fastening of duralumin panels to the wooden parts of the structure is carried out with self-tapping screws in one row with a pitch of 30 mm - these connections are high enough above the water.

The deck of the bow of the boat is made in the shape of a semicircle. Bending of a corner with a radius of 650 mm for joining the sides and decking is carried out towards a pre-cut horizontal flange to a width of 12 mm

The deck flooring above the forepeak is made of two panels cut from a duralumin sheet 1 mm thick. Two beams serve as a support for the flooring below: a transverse (according to shipbuilding terminology - a beam) and a longitudinal one (carlings). At the intersection, the beams are connected "half-tree". Beams and carlings allow you to safely step on the deck when mooring with a bow and setting off. For mooring the boat, a handle-eye is mounted in its bow. The first (front) deck panel is removable, this is a hatch cover for access to the forepeak. It is screwed to the frame corner with self-tapping screws. The second (next to it) panel is riveted with side edges by means of the same corner with the sides, and it is also screwed to the bulkhead extension board with self-tapping screws. The bulkhead is also made of millimetric duralumin sheet. It is riveted to the sides and bottom with rivets through duralumin corners, and the bottom corner just has a junction (overlap) of the bottom panels and side panels, if they are composite. It is also worth noting that the boat does not have a transverse power set as such. therefore, the bulkhead acts as a frame, like. however, and transom.

The stern of the boat is transom, that is, flat-cut. It is made of a sheet of duralumin 1 mm thick and is placed in the upper part with a fir board twenty 125 mm wide. Here I note that in order to raise the outboard motor higher above the water, I made the upper edge of the transom board convex. However, he made the upper edge of the bulkhead extension board the same convex, but with a different purpose - to give the deck a bulge so that the water that fell on it would flow overboard, but not into the cockpit. In the middle, I put on a 1 mm thick steel plate fitting on the transom board so that the motor mount bracket does not damage the board.

Although the boat is double, but the seat (bank) is one and it is not mounted as usual - across the boat, but in the middle along it and slightly obliquely. Such an arrangement of the can is not only much more convenient for fishing, but allows the helmsman and passenger to take any place in the cockpit, depending on the workload of the craft and the waves of the water, and also, if necessary, change places right on the water and even while the boat is moving without the risk of turning it over or falling over. board yourself. The placement in the boat of a 5-liter gas tank, a box for fishing tackle, a box for clothes is organized, if possible, in such a way that the bottom remains almost completely free, which improves the operating conditions and habitability (if this word can be used for a small area and open to everyone cockpit winds).

A large, and concentrated, load on the bottom of the boat is transferred by the stand-pippers of the can seat installed by surprise. Therefore, the lower end of the rack rests on a washer of a rather large diameter made of a duralumin sheet 3 mm thick. The washer is laid on the bottom and riveted to the bottom with a single rivet with a diameter of 10 mm. and. the closing head is made in the form of a pin, which serves as a fixer for the position of the lower end of the tubular rack.

Wooden parts are impregnated with hot drying oil even before installation. Before painting, duralumin parts are cleaned of oxide film (at the same time their surfaces are roughened for better adhesion), degreased and primed. The entire boat, after assembling its parts into a single structure, is painted with enamel.

The forepeak of the bale is not hermetic. Therefore, the unsinkability of the boat is ensured by 20 plastic cylinders with a capacity of 1,5 liters and two cans of 10 liters placed in it. mounted on the bottom in the aft cockpit of the boat and attached, like the gas tank, with clamps to the transom.

Vespa tried to make durable, light. comfortable and unsinkable. I present their design.

The oar spindle is made of a duralumin tube with a diameter of 32 mm and a millimeter wall thickness. At the connection point of the oarlock, the spindle is reinforced from the inside with a piece of thick-walled aluminum pipe with a wooden plug fixed there with epoxy glue. Also, to increase wear resistance, fluoroplastic washers are inserted on the axle between the horns of the oarlock fork and the roll pipe on both sides.

fishing glider
Paddle (click to enlarge): 1 - handle (birch); 2 - spindle (pipe 32x1): 3 - cork (fir); 4 - amplifier (aluminum pipe Ø30x3); 5 - bracket (aluminum pipe Ø32x4); 6 - rivet (aluminum Ø6, 3 pcs.); 7 - blade (duralumin, sheet s2,5)

fishing glider
Oarlock socket: 1 - pin bushing (steel pipe Ø15x2,25); 2 - overlay (steel sheet s2, 2 pcs.)

fishing glider
Oarlock and assembly (oar details pos. 5, 6 and 7 are conditionally shown in section): 1 - pin (steel 35, circle Ø10); 2 - fork (steel 20, strip 20x3); 3 - oar axis (M6x55 bolt with nut); 4 - gasket (PTFE washer, s2); 5 - oar spindle: 6 - amplifier; 7 - cork

fishing glider
Refinement of the anti-cavitation plate on the outboard motor "Veterok-8M"

The paddles are made of medium-hard aluminum sheet 2,5 mm thick. Along the blade, by bending, two streams are made. It is attached to the spindle not directly, but through an adapter insert - an amplifier of the spindle root, made of a thick-walled aluminum pipe with an outer diameter of 32 mm. also with wooden cork. To be able to insert the amplifier into the spindle, one end of the first is machined to the inner diameter of the second. At the other end, a slot for the blade is made, the end is flattened and the details are riveted. The amplifier is planted in a spindle on epoxy glue. For the strength of the connection, clean fine metal filings or aluminum powder can be added to the glue.

Production of a spindle of an oar from a fir is possible. In this case, its diameter, and, accordingly, the distance between the horns of the oarlock fork should be increased by 1,5 times.

The mass of the boat does not even reach 20 kg, but the displacement (total mass of passengers and payload) was about 130 kg.

The boat is equipped with a modified outboard motor "Veterok" with a power of 8 hp. (I also went under 12-strong). Of no small importance is the deepening of the stern section of the motor. My motor is raised to the maximum, and to prevent air leakage, the anti-cavitation plate is widened in the bow and on the sides - a plate is riveted to it from below. In planing mode, the depth of the propeller is about 250 mm, which is quite enough - grass and debris floating on the water do not reach the propeller.

Even at the outboard motor, Veterok dismantled the stop, and riveted a duralumin corner with a block of hard rubber to the rear board at the bottom of the boat. Such a motor suspension not only dampens vibration and shock better, but also reduces the load on the transom. From the last consideration, the motor mount in the raised position was also dismantled, and the engine is now held in this position on its left side and without a stop.

The speed of the boat with the motor "Veterok-8M" is 8 hp. - up to 30 km / h, and with a 12-horsepower engine - up to 40 km / h.

With one driver, even under an 8-horsepower engine, the boat can easily enter the gliding mode, and under a 12-horsepower engine. her body is almost completely out of the water. Further driving takes place in an economical gliding mode (according to fuel consumption) for the engine.

It is noticed that in the presence of ripples on the water, the speed of the boat's exit to gliding increases. Happy sailing or. as sailors say: seven feet under the keel. Just remember to wear life jackets, even if you can swim well

Author: R.Nigmatullin

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