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Quadruple cabin boat. Personal transport

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This boat has always attracted the attention of motorists. Some were attracted by its emphatically automotive appearance, complemented by wheels painted on the sides. Others - comfort in the cabin, good speed, maneuverability and controllability. Well, lovers of tinkering, in addition, were interested in the design and manufacturing technology of the case, which is perfectly oriented to work in a home workshop.

The boat has very successful contours, copied from widespread boats such as the "Boston Whaler". Experience shows that a boat of this shape easily enters the gliding mode with one engine of the Vikhr-30 type, and its stability is such that even two people on board are not able not only to turn the boat over, but even to significantly heel it. .

The vessel has a closed cabin, practically no different from a car. Access to it is through two doors that open the sidewalls and the ceiling of the body for entry and exit.

The manufacturing technology of the case is simple. However, it requires a fairly large amount of foam of any brand - for example, construction.

The hull of the boat consists of two parts, upper and lower. But, in principle, it can be molded as a whole. You should start from the bottom. The frames for it are cut out of 12 mm plywood in accordance with the theoretical drawing. The second and sixth frames are closed: after cutting, they are glued on both sides with plywood 3–4 mm thick with filling of its inner part with foam.

The frame is assembled upside down on a flat floor. To do this, a DP is drawn on it (otherwise, a plane of symmetry), as well as the axes of the frames. Next, frames are fixed on the floor: from below - with wooden bars fixed with small nails, and from above - with several slats and soft safety wire. We must try to more accurately set the frames, for which you should use, for example, a plumb line.

Scheme of formation of hull contours

Scheme of formation of hull contours: 1 - foam filling; 2 - fiberglass; 3 - frame base elements; 4 - longitudinal frame set; 5 - side keel; 6 - central keel

Now prepare a longitudinal set of the hull - slats with a section of 20x20 mm, 20x30 mm and for keels - 30x30 mm. The rails are adjusted locally; fastening them to the frames - using epoxy glue; temporary fixation before the polymerization of the glue - with a locking wire. To obtain curved rails (in the bow), use the simplest slipway in which you can fix the steamed rail: when dry, it will take the form of this slipway.

After the frame is leveled (as shipbuilders say - malkovki), the spaces (zones between the frames) are filled with foam blocks. For cutting them, it is best to build a simple machine in which the working tool is a nichrome wire glowing with current (the power supply of this heating element is through a step-down transformer).

Do not try to immediately seal the entire body with foam. It is more convenient to carry out its insertion and preliminary processing sequentially. For example, glue two or three longitudinal foam plastic belts, after the glue has cured, process them from the outside and from the inside, focusing on the elements of the longitudinal and transverse set, and only then glue the next belts. Refinement of workpieces from such a specific material as polystyrene should be carried out using cutters of various shapes sharpened to razor sharpness. You will need long flat knives like kitchen knives, cobbler-like blunt knives, and long, bow-shaped blades. Some types of foam plastics are well processed with a planer, the piece of iron of which is located at an angle of 45 ° (if you look at the sole of the planer from below) to its longitudinal axis. Of course, the cutting part of this tool must also be sharpened no worse than a razor.

After processing the body and, if necessary, puttying, its outer surface is pasted over with fiberglass. To do this, it is best to use glass matting (two or three layers) followed by a final two-layer pasting with satin weave fiberglass. It is recommended that the surface of the case be completely leveled with epoxy putty before finishing gluing. It makes sense to lay several fiberglass tapes along all three keels - these places wear out especially intensively during operation.

Four-seater cabin boat with "Boston whaler" lines (click to enlarge): 1 - mooring bow duck; 2 - front trunk lid; 3, 13 - waterproof bulkheads-frames; 4 - steering device; 5 - windshield; 6 - side front glass; 7 - lifting door; 8 - side rear window; 9 - rear window; 10 - mooring forage duck; 11 - a box of a sub-engine niche; 12 - transom board; 14 - elan; 15 - frame; 16 - passenger rear seat; 17 - front seat; 18 - engine remote control

The final finishing of the case can be greatly facilitated by using the following method. After gluing with fiberglass, without waiting for the binder to cure, the body is leveled with putty (also epoxy), and then a polyethylene film is applied on top. This must be done so that there are no air bubbles between it and the surface of the case. After that, the body is "smoothed out" - with hands or with rubber "trowels" resembling large spatulas. After polymerization, in this case, an almost finished polished case is obtained, requiring only minimal processing. Concave and saddle-shaped surfaces of the hull, such as the areas between the keels, are particularly well suited in this way. In this case, the film is first strongly stretched in the longitudinal direction and fixed in the front and rear parts of the body, and then, to a somewhat lesser extent, in the transverse direction.

Finishing includes priming the hull, leveling with putty, sanding and applying a "development" coat of paint, which helps to reveal surface defects.

The next stage of work is the manufacture of the upper part of the boat. It should be noted that its size and shape largely depend on what components of finished products can be selected for the design of the cabin. In particular, on the size of the glasses used. Of course, the use of organic glass will allow you to build a salon of any size and shape, but it is more rational to take automotive glass as a basis - for example, the rear windows of cars (they are cheaper) of suitable brands. That is why the construction of the upper part of the body should begin with the manufacture of frames for the front and rear windows. The easiest way is to glue them out of 3 mm plywood. To do this, strips of the required width are cut and a frame is laid out directly on the glass from them. The strips are attached to the glass with clips resembling clothespins or small clamps. The total thickness of the gluing is about 20 mm.

Mounting of the upper part of the body is made of plywood and foam. To begin with, the frames of the front and rear windows, two inclined frames forming the lifting door frame (made of 12 mm plywood), and two roof spars (20 mm thick rails) are installed. All these elements are connected using epoxy glue and screws. The frames of the front and rear side windows are also glued out of plywood.

Doors are assembled from plywood and foam. The frame of each consists of two frames of 12 mm plywood and three crossbars - pine slats 20 - 25 mm thick. In the upper part of each frame, diagonal elements are glued for rigidity. The space between the elements is filled with foam, its surface is leveled from the inside and outside and pasted over with fiberglass.

The surface of the upper part of the hull is formed in exactly the same way as its lower part: the space between the frames is filled with foam blocks, processed and glued with fabric.

In the rear of the case, a box of a sub-engine niche is glued. It can be made by molding from fiberglass over a block, but it is still easier to cut out its elements from hardboard or plywood, “sew” them with a safety wire and glue the joints with strips of fiberglass. She also subsequently pasted over the inner surface of the box itself.

Before joining the upper and lower parts of the body, they should be processed from the inside and pasted over with two layers of fiberglass. The connection is made with glue and screws, followed by laying on the outside and inside with strips of fiberglass.

Theoretical drawing of the boat hull (click to enlarge)

The frame of the upper part of the boat's hull (click to enlarge): 1,9, 10 - frame base elements; 2 - cross member; 3 - front glass frame (plywood plywood); 4 - dashboard; 5,7 - frames of the door frame (plywood s12); 6 - roof spars; 8 - rear window frame; 11 - rear cross member; 12 - scarf; 13 - spar forming the trunk lid box; 14 - reinforcing scarf

The front trunk lid and doors are hung using conventional hinges used for hanging frames. A spring lock is used to lock the doors in the open position. Both the doors and the trunk lid have rubber seals to prevent water from entering the body.

In the cabin of the boat there are two semi-soft sofas designed for the driver and three passengers. The front sofa has separate backs, hinged - so that both can lean forward, allowing passengers on the back sofa to leave the cabin. The back of the rear seat is single, it also leans forward, opening access to the rear trunk.

The frames of the seats and backs are made of wooden slats sheathed with 4 mm plywood. Pillows - from foam rubber and an imitation leather.

Remote control - standard, of those that can be purchased in sporting goods stores. It consists of a steering wheel, a cable drive and an engine control panel.

From the inside, the interior is trimmed with artificial leather, equipped with a ceiling lamp. The exterior is painted with air-dried automotive enamel.

On the deck - in front and behind - four ducks are fixed for fastening the mooring ends. If you intend to use the boat for navigation at night, it is necessary to install navigation lights on it. A searchlight mounted on the roof will not be superfluous.

Author: I.Mnevnik

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