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PERSONAL TRANSPORT: GROUND, WATER, AIR
Snow scooter. Personal transport
Directory / Personal transport: land, water, air 1 version The old people recall with humor cheerful rides from the snowy slopes on primitive ice rinks - bowl-shaped rounds made of wet hay frozen in old sieves. Or noisy descents of a "small bunch" on ordinary sledges, from which shafts were removed before that ... And today, trade offers for this a wide selection of various sleds - both metal and plastic, up to the controlled steering Chuk and Gek. And still, the craving for making unusual winter homemade products does not weaken. Responding to this continued interest in extreme types of skiing from the mountains, the Bulgarian magazine "Napravi Sam" proposed a curious design of a snow scooter that will attract the attention of teenagers not only for its availability for self-production, but also for the unusual ways of riding.
The originality of the projectile is that it is on one skid. This, on the one hand, simplifies the manufacture of a snow scooter, and on the other hand, it complicates the rolling down the mountain itself, which adds to the extreme popular with modern youth. Indeed, it is enough to watch the rapid descent on this device to understand: there is enough adrenaline here. The projectile behaves like a restive racer, dodging and jumping on bumps, as if trying to throw off a dashing rider. How the scooter works Its basis, of course, is the curly skid itself, which works both as a ski and as a seat support. It is made from a wooden board (or plywood re-glue) 40 mm thick, which is given the appropriate shape shown on the scale grid. The skid is lined with metal (s2 mm) or nylon (s20 mm) tape (on screws), and in the upper part on both sides it has L-shaped brackets attached with screws (from s3,5 board or suitable metal ones). The seat is also attached to them with screws (or MXNUMX bolts). The seat is made of plywood (from 20 mm thick). Behind it, closer to the edge, a rounded back is installed from the same plywood (on spikes with glue and an additional screed from the bottom with a screw, also on glue). And since the rider has to hold on tight so as not to fly out of such a saddle, two handles (ordinary brackets) are attached to the sides of the seat from below (on bolts or screws).
As you can see, the device is simple, the materials are available, and manufacturing is not particularly difficult. Finish Since the main material is wood, the finish is supposed to be traditional for wood. In this case, it is enough to carefully process all the edges with sandpaper so that there are no dangerous splinters, and cover (saturate) the surface with drying oil so that the tree is not afraid of moisture. It is advisable to paste over the seat with microporous rubber or felt: it will be softer and "warmer". You can add additional attractiveness and brightness to the projectile by painting it with oil or enamel paints, or even painting it with various symbols and signs so beloved by young people - this is already in accordance with the imagination of the projectile manufacturer. 2 version The snow scooter that we recommend you to make will give you the opportunity not only to descend from the snowy mountains, but also to practice slalom. It's not too hard to build. Well, of course, if you manage to use welding, but in extreme cases you can do without it, replacing welded joints with bolted ones. The frame of the scooter is curved from a thin-walled steel pipe with an outer diameter of about 30 mm. The steering column of single-track sleds is made of the same pipe. The swivel bracket is designed in such a way that the maximum angle of rotation of the front steering ski does not exceed 45 ° from neutral. The hinge of the front ski is curved from a steel plate 2,5-3 mm thick. The hinge axis is a steel bolt M8. The bushing is welded to the steering column. Do not forget to flatten the pipe before welding so that there is a gap of about 5 mm between its walls. To do this, it's a good idea to use a metal plate of the same thickness - insert it into the end of the pipe and crush the latter with a wooden mallet. The front ski is best modified from a finished one, for example, cut from a piece of a slalom ski. Well, the back will have to be done independently from a suitable oak or beech board. To give it the shape shown in the figure, the board must be soaked in water for two to three days, and then placed in a kind of slipway for the same period - press the back part with clamps to the thick board, and then the front part, having previously placed a wooden block with a thickness of about 100 mm. After drying and final processing of the rear ski, it is desirable to paste over the sliding surface with fiberglass on epoxy resin.
The seat of the scooter is a base made of 15 mm plywood with a foam cushion covered with leatherette or artificial leather. The front part of the seat is hinged to the frame, and the rear part is sprung with a shock absorber from a light motorcycle or moped. Depending on the type of shock absorber, the method of attaching it to the frame and rear ski will also change. On such a scooter, it is best to go down the hills, having small skis on your feet - they will help you maintain balance and make turns more clearly. It is perfectly acceptable to use commercially available plastic mini-skis, but still it is better to have home-made, wooden ones - they are stronger, and you can also install a standard "hard" mount on them. The easiest way is to make them from children's skis, shortening them to the required size.
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Comments on the article: Anna Thank you very much for such a wonderful article! They took me back to my childhood. My dad made this snow scooter for my brother and me, only in the 60s it was called JACK. Why dont know. Maybe the name came from England-America, did the local guys ride on such? For several years we rode a jack from the mountains on the Shuvalovskie lakes in Leningrad. The speed was very decent, but the jack was masterfully made! Dad had golden hands!
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