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5. Defects in hidden electrical wiring
Directory / Electrician in the house Even experienced electricians believe that in the absence of a phase or "ground (zero)" in accessible places, the cores should be hammered into the wall, removed the coating, etc. looking for a defect. Then the core of the wire is connected at the break or another wire or wiring is laid in the groove that has arisen. Cover the furrow and plaster the surface of the wall. All this is too laborious if the apartment or house is not being repaired at the same time. A new conductor between room repairs is much easier to lay directly on the surface of a wall, ceiling, cornice or under it, etc. I will give an example of a repair when only a few centimeters of another wire were used to eliminate a broken wire somewhere inside the wall. It matches the color of the wall and is therefore almost invisible. True, the search for the area of \uXNUMXb\uXNUMXbdamage to the wire core took enough time. So, the cartridge, switch and socket are mounted vertically on the wall. They are interconnected so that the electric current flows from the outlet to the cartridge. The electric lamp is "indifferent" to pressing the switch key. The exclusion method is used in search of the reason for the absence of incandescence of the lamp filament. The first stage. It has been implemented. Changes in the position of the switch key did not cause the lamp to flash. The key is left on. The second stage. We unscrew the lamp. We blindly screw in another, preferably a new one. Only at the moment of contact between the lamp base and the thread of the cartridge is it permissible to look at the lamp. Late - dangerous! Explosion of the lamp bulb is possible, although in most cases its spiral burns out ... If the second lamp does not create light either, then the lamellar contacts of the cartridge are bent to the side opposite to the insert. This is done after setting the switch key to the "Off" position and unscrewing the lamp and cartridge skirt. Assembly in reverse order. No light - the next stage. The third stage. Remove the cover or switch key by unscrewing the screw or pressing the latch. Dry, non-conductive material must be underfoot (dry wooden floor, rubber mat that is not wet, etc.). The switch contacts are closed, say, with pliers, holding them by plastic or rubber covers stretched over the handles of these pliers. One or two screwdrivers with insulated handles will do the same. The appearance of light will prove the malfunction of the switch. It is changed with the electrical plugs turned out or the handles of the circuit breakers on the panel lowered, although people with some experience do this without touching the plugs or circuit breakers. However, they certainly stand on non-conductive material and follow other safety regulations. In particular, in order to exclude sparking between the contacts of the switch and the ends of the wire cores, the load is removed from the latter, that is, the switch is removed and a new one is installed with the keys fixed in the "Off" position. If it is difficult to determine, then turn out the bulb (or bulbs) when the switch is connected to the chandelier ... The fourth stage. The closure of the switch contacts did not cause the lamp coil to heat up, so they proceed to the next stage of repair. Two screws are unscrewed from the socket. The cartridge hangs on the wires coming out through the hole in the socket. Options are possible. The socket is missing. The screws that secure the cartridge are wrapped in corks, dowels, wire spirals. The wires are checked at the exit from the wall. The hole in the wall is sometimes expanded for their qualitative testing. The wires are removed from the contacts of the cartridge and oscillate them from side to side, bending approximately 90sh. The trick of the wire lies in the fact that the elasticity of the plastic sheath-insulation sometimes hides a break in the core. The place of the wire that causes suspicion is controlled in two ways. Since the wires to the cartridge come from the outlet, they do it with a test lamp. One control probe is inserted into any socket of the socket, the second is applied to the end of a particular core. The switch is left on. When the control lamp does not flash, the probe is moved to the end of the other core. The laying of the wires is hidden, and therefore it is not immediately possible to guess which wire to press the probe to. The socket socket is also changed. I remind you that the control light is on only when its probes are on opposite poles, on conductors with phase and "ground", i.e. on different solid cores of wiring. Therefore, if the control lamp is "dead", then a broken core has occurred. The place of the break, oddly enough, happens at the wire in the groove, where no one touches it. This means that a partial fracture of the vein arose or was still during its laying, say, 10 ... 20 years ago. Electrical loads on the core and exacerbated the defect. Sometimes the core is interrupted with a nail or torn with an electric drill. There is nothing more dangerous when a person is standing on a conductive material and there are no rubber gloves on his hands. A lesser threat is promised by the probes of the control lamp. They should touch only the right places, not closing unnecessary ones "along the way". A guarantee of this impossibility will be cores, pins or pins protruding from under the insulation by only 1 ... 1,5 mm. The control lamp is sometimes missing. A table lamp will temporarily replace it. Take off the fork. The loops of the cores are straightened and insulated at an excessive length. True, disassembling the plug and everything that follows will be useless when the two wires of the cord cannot be untwisted. What to do? Do without a control lamp. Let's replace the electric method of determining the location of the fracture with the operating one. The wire in the exposed suspected area will be subjected to surgery. A bend in the wire, for example, at the exit from the wall, is often the cause of a break in the core. And if there is a socket, then they remove it. With a sharp knife in the suspected place in the longitudinal direction, a "chip" of such a thickness is removed to see the vein. The incision of the insulation itself at a length of 7 ... 12 mm will weaken its elasticity so much that a break in the core will cause the insulation to sag during vibrations. If the incision does not reveal a break, then it is carefully wrapped with insulating tape. Of course, it is unfortunate that the operational method of finding a break is not applicable to wire in wall furrows. Fifth stage. It is started when the control lamp does not flash at least after checking one conductor. The flow of electricity to an apartment or an individual house is stopped. Electrical plugs twist or lower the handles of the circuit breakers on the shield. Turning off the electric current is checked by turning on a chandelier, sconce, etc. or an indicator. Lack of current - a signal to start repairs. The core of the defective conductor has already been disconnected from the cartridge. The second end of the core, suppose, at the outlet. Socket designs are varied. But the contacts of almost all sockets are open after removing the cover. Unscrewing the contact screw of the socket, loosen the clamp of the core and remove it. This end of the core is isolated and taken aside. A new conductor, which will replace the defective one in the furrow, is selected somewhat longer in length than the hidden one. It would be nice if it matched the color of the wall. Stranded conductor is preferred. He will never be broken in this situation. The ends of the core or cores in a stranded wire over a length of 10 ... 15 mm are freed from insulation and bent into loops or. leave straightened butt-shaped, depending on the contact arrangement of the cartridge and socket. So, the ends of the new conductor are clamped in the contacts. If the lamp is unscrewed from the cartridge, then it is returned to its place. Electrical plugs screw or raise the handles of the circuit breakers on the shield. The lamp should light up when the switch is in the correct position. The power supply is stopped again. The cartridge is attached with screws to the socket or the screws are screwed into the dowels. The socket and switch covers are returned to their places so that they press the new conductor stretched along the wall. Sixth stage.The lamp in the socket did not flash after replacing one conductor between the socket and the socket. The fault therefore falls on the conductors between the switch and socket or switch and socket. A completely "thin" option, when both conductors lived with kinks. The control lamp will find out and prove this again. We remove the covers of the switch and socket again, if they are dressed. One test lamp probe is inserted into the socket socket, the second is applied to the switch contact. When the control lamp does not respond, the second probe is left in the same position, and the first probe is lowered into another socket in the socket. The lamp does not flash. Now the second probe is attached to the second contact of the switch. If the lamp is still dark, then the first probe is removed from the socket of the socket and inserted into a nearby socket. All movements are made with care! Only the cores of the probes must touch metal parts! The darkness of the control lamp proved a break in the conductor strand between the switch and the socket. We select a new conductor and prepare it according to the method indicated in the previous step. The only question is between which contact of the switch and the socket of the socket to stretch it. If the conductor was replaced between one of the sockets of the socket and the direct contact of the cartridge (fifth stage), then our short conductor is connected to another socket of the socket and to any contact of the switch with the plugs turned out or the handles of the circuit breakers lowered on the shield. But the conductor between the socket socket and the direct contact of the cartridge could be intact. The control lamp will then determine the places of its connection in the cartridge and socket. Seventh stage. The conductor between the switch and the cartridge is the last place for a possible break in the core. The "game" with the test lamp probes, proposed at the beginning, is not needed here. One probe is applied to the contact that does not clamp the core of the conductor directed directly to the socket. The second probe is connected to the remaining contact of the switch, because one contact is already occupied by a residential conductor from the socket. The switch key must be in such a position that the intermediate parts of the switch close its contacts. The presence of low light in series-connected fuse lamps or raised handles of circuit breakers will confirm a broken strand. The fuse plugs unscrew or lower the handles of the circuit breakers again. The ends of the core of the defective hidden conductor are removed from under the contacts of the cartridge and the switch. These ends are isolated and later hidden under the cover of the switch or the base of the cartridge. A new conductor is selected and prepared according to the above method. The ends of the core of this conductor are clamped in the free contacts of the switch and the cartridge. Fuse plugs wrap or lift the handles of circuit breakers. The lamp in the socket should flash. The current is switched off again. The cartridge is attached to the socket so that only a new conductor protrudes from under the base. Everything remaining from pulling this conductor is hidden under the cover of the switch or under the base of the cartridge. Starting current in an apartment or house electrical network is the last repair operation. Back (Bathroom and toilet wall lamp) Forward (Probes)
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