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BASICS OF SAFE LIFE
Bonfires and hearths. Basics of safe life
Directory / Basics of safe life Place for fire Campfire site. It is chosen in an open, but protected from the wind, safe place, preferably near water. A fire should be made on already trampled down sites or on old fires. It is advisable to have a sapper shovel with you: it is convenient to remove the sod from the place chosen for the fire and dig it in with a groove. In extreme cases, an ax is used for this. All dry leaves, branches, needles, grass that can catch fire should be removed from the fire at a distance of 1-1,5 m. Fire safety. The main requirements when choosing a place for a fire. You can not build a fire closer than 4-6 m from trees, resinous stumps or roots. Tree branches should not hang over the fire. Do not light a fire in coniferous young. Here the most terrible - riding - fire can easily arise. Do not build fires in areas with dry reeds, reeds, moss, or grass. They are on fire at high speed. A fire is dangerous in clearings where there are remains of forest combustible materials: here the fire spreads quickly, and it is difficult to stop the fire that has begun. Don't light a fire in peat bogs. Remember that smoldering peat is very difficult to put out, even by flooding it with water. Unnoticed smoldering can easily turn into a destructive peat fire. Do not make fires in the forest on stony placers. In such places, forest debris and humus accumulate between the stones. The fire that has penetrated the cracks can spread along the deep and winding passages between the stones. Putting out such a fire is almost impossible. A single fire can turn picturesque, forested hills into dead heaps of stones for many years. Kindling a fire Kindling. Kindling a fire begins with a preparation of kindling, which is made from small spruce twigs, birch bark (taken, of course, not from living birch), dry moss, lichen, shavings, torches. In wet weather, kindling is extracted from wood chips of deadwood split with an ax, from dry coniferous litter, sheltered from rain by tree crowns. The prepared kindling-fuse is placed under a small brushwood folded with a hut or a well and set on fire, and thicker firewood is carefully placed on top. In the rain, a fire is made under the cover of a cape or raincoat, which is held by two tourists. The stronger the wind or rain, the denser the kindling and fuel on the fire should be. In bad weather, it is good to have dry alcohol, an old photographic film, a candle stub, a piece of plexiglass or rubber with you. Lighting a fire without matches. If matches are lost or if they are damp and for some reason cannot be dried, fire for a fire is obtained in a more complicated way. In sunny weather, a magnifying glass is used for this (as well as camera lenses and even glasses from watches or glasses). If the group has firearms, a blank shot should be fired at the ground, after filling the cartridge case filled with gunpowder with cotton wool, dry moss or grass by one third. You can try using flint (selected from the surrounding stones) to strike sparks on tinder or make fire by quickly rolling a cotton cord between two dry planks. However, these methods are very time consuming and rarely give positive results without proper practice. Procurement of fuel Firewood for a fire. Near settlements, as well as in populated areas, firewood that is not suitable for the economic needs of the local population, for example, small deadwood, dry crooked forest, old stumps, coniferous litter, can be used as fuel. If there is no such fuel nearby, then firewood for a fire should be purchased through the forestry or take stoves and gas stoves with you on a hike. In the taiga regions, there is usually always enough brushwood, dead wood, and dead wood. When preparing fuel, however, it should be borne in mind that damp and rotten wood gives a lot of smoke, but little heat; small brushwood burns out in the first two or three minutes; aspen and fir firewood are bad because they "shoot" sparks too much. For cooking, it is better to use birch and alder deadwood, which burns evenly and almost without smoke. If you need to build a large hot fire, for example, in winter with a forced overnight stay, then firewood from pine, cedar and spruce deadwood will be the best. Dry roll. When preparing dead wood for a fire, they first determine the natural slope of the tree and the place of its possible fall, then look at the likely path of the falling tree to make sure that it does not hang on neighboring crowns, and only after that they do it from the side where it is planned to fell the tree, undercut by a third of the diameter of the trunk. The second undercut is made on the opposite side, about a palm above the first. When chopping a tree, it is necessary to alternate striking at an acute angle with direct blows, which "choose" the wood. If the tree does not fall under its own weight, then a wooden wedge or lever is used - wag, which directs its fall to a free area. In doing so, precautions must be taken. People should not only be at the site of the alleged fall, but also behind the tree, as it can bounce back with a butt. If the tree is thick enough, then a two-handed saw should be used to fell it. It is possible to determine whether a tourist is dealing with a living or dried up tree by its top (but not by the bark or lower branches). If the top is dry, then the whole tree is dry. Bonfires in wooded areas "Shalash". A "hut" type fire is convenient where tourists are going to cook food in a small amount of dishes and at the same time want to light up the camp site. The advantage of this cone-shaped, or gable, fire is that thin "waste" firewood (brushwood, deadwood) is used as fuel. Giving a high bright flame, the fire at the same time has a very narrow heating zone and forms little coal, requiring constant dry land (Fig. 7.2, a). "Well". This is one of the types of hot fires. It is folded from more or less thick short logs laid in rows (Fig. 7.2, b). Slowly burning, the logs form a lot of coals, giving a high temperature. Such a fire is convenient for cooking, as well as heating and drying clothes. "Taiga" fire. It consists of logs 2-3 m long, laid along or at an acute angle to each other (Fig. 7.2, c). The wide front of the fire allows you to cook food for a large group on it, dry things, and also spend the night next to those who for some reason do not have tents. Relating to long-acting bonfires, "taiga" does not require frequent lining of firewood. From other types of fires, "fireplace", "Polynesian", "star" can be recommended. Features of their laying are visible in Fig. 7.2, d, e, f.
Rice. 7.2. Types of fires: a - "hut"; b - "well"; c - "taiga"; g - "fireplace"; e - "Polynesian"; e - "star".
Rice. 7.3. Bonfire "nodya" and a barrier-reflector "Nodia". For such a fire (Fig. 7.3), even logs (spruce, pine, cedar) are harvested and cleaned of branches and branches. Two logs are placed side by side on the ground, then a good kindling is placed on them (in the gap), or, even better, coals from the "ignition" fire, everything is pressed from above by the third log. Kindling can also be placed between two logs lying on top of each other, but for this you must first make a gutter in them. "Nodia" gradually flares up and burns with an even hot flame for several hours without additional fuel. You can regulate the heat of the fire by slightly pushing and moving the lower logs or (if the log lies on the log) moving the third log - the air draft regulator. Bonfire on a winter trip. With a shallow snow cover, a fire is bred in a specially dug snow pit. Digging such a pit is quite laborious and is carried out by two or three tourists using duralumin shovels, buckets, pots, pieces of plywood. The crossbar for the fire is installed on tripods of ski poles or rested on the edges of the pit, having previously placed ski poles on the snow (Fig. 7.4).
Rice. 7.4. Bonfire in the snow pit In deep snow and in the presence of waste damp or rotten logs, it is better not to dig a fire pit, but to make a fire on a special platform. The platform is laid from several damp logs, under which, for greater stability, two more transverse deadwood should be placed. The fastest way to make a fire in winter is on a metal mesh, which is stretched between the trees. This mesh with a mesh size of 3-4 mm (wire thickness - 0,5 mm) is also used when organizing an overnight stay by the fire to protect "shooting" firewood sleeping from sparks. The mesh is rolled up and carried in the side pocket of the backpack. Hearths in sparsely forested areas A fire in a sparsely forested area requires saving firewood and the most careful attitude to vegetation. In the steppe, hearths are made of turf for a fire, in the mountains - from stones (Fig. 7.5). When laying the hearth, it should be remembered that better combustion can be achieved if the distance between the side walls of the hearth on the windward side is made wider than on the leeward side.
Rice. 7.5. Hearth in the mountains Dry bushes, grass, reeds, and dung serve as firewood in treeless areas. The best artificial fuel in these places are dry alcohol, gasoline, gas. The consumption of dry alcohol for preparing dinner from concentrates for 4 tourists is usually 200-300 g. Alcohol tablets are very hygroscopic and require careful moisture-proof packaging, otherwise its consumption may double. For cooking on gasoline, it is convenient to use the so-called tourist stove, which weighs less than one kilogram together with refueling. In the case of using stoves and tiles, it is recommended to build windproof walls and heat-reflecting screens. Folding camp kitchens are even more convenient (Fig. 7.6).
Author: Mikhailov L.A.
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