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Selection and testing of the microelectric motor. Tips for a modeler

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Commercially available micromotors, although they differ in appearance and operating parameters, have basically the same design principle. These are two-pole DC electrical machines with excitation from an external magnet (magnets). The three-prong laminated drum-type anchor is assembled from electrical steel plates. The winding of copper insulated wire is connected in a "triangle" or "star" pattern. Power supply - from a brush assembly mounted in the engine cover, and a three-lamella cylindrical collector pressed onto the armature shaft.

Modifications of individual components and parts of microelectric motors are quite diverse. In particular, a distinctive feature of MDP and DP motors is the use of magnets in the form of rectangular bars made of cobalt-based alloys with magnetic cores cast into a plastic case and a polystyrene cover glued to the case. Characteristic representatives of motors in a metal case are motors of the DI1 series, they use segmented barium ferrite magnets. The polystyrene covers are secured to the body of these motors with crimping tabs. Such engines can be easily disassembled and assembled without violating the integrity of the cover or housing.

Do you know in advance which engine is suitable for your model? If the loads are small, motors of the DP brand are suitable, if medium (0,4 -0,5 W) - MDP1 or DI1-2, with a power of more than 0,6 W - motors of the brand DI1-3.

Take a 4,5-volt coin cell battery with you when you go to the store. It is convenient in that it is easy to connect any microelectric motor to its terminals.

Ask the seller for permission to select the engine to your liking, but do not rush to connect the battery. First, inspect the engine externally, first of all, paying attention to the fixation of the cover. Is it firmly fixed, are there any distortions. Then check the condition of the contact clips by moving them with your fingers. If they are poorly fixed, play, put this engine aside - during operation, it may lose contact in the brush-collector assembly.

Then inspect the working part (neck) of the shaft. Whether there are bends, surface defects, rust, burrs. This is necessary to ensure reliable fastening of the toothed tube, pulley or other structural elements on the shaft.

Place your fingers around the shaft and slide it slightly axially from one end position to the other. Axial play should be within 0,5 - 1 mm. Less play will cause friction losses between the end surfaces of the armature and the bearing flanges, especially if the grease thickens; and a larger one will lead to a displacement of the anchor package relative to the active zone of the engine magnetic field. In addition, a large shaft play can cause a break in the connection between the tube and the gear of the first stage of the model or toy gearbox.

Rotate the shaft in both directions. If it scrolls with effort or does not rotate by inertia, put this motor aside - it is also faulty.

And now let's consider this option - a preliminary check did not find any defects: the cover sits firmly in place, the brackets and contacts are fixed rigidly, the axial play of the shaft is normal, its ends are in order, and it rotates by hand freely in both directions without jamming. This is where it's time to connect the battery to it. The engine must run vigorously from it. Reverse the polarity and listen to the operation of the motor. If the tone of the sound during reverse (changing the direction of rotation) is easily audible, you should not purchase such an engine - it is assembled in violation of the so-called geometric central and will not be able to develop the required power under load.

Press your finger on the side surface of the shaft of a running engine. Such side loads must not stop the rotation of the shaft. Reverse polarity and repeat procedure. If the shaft speed drops sharply with a slight pressure, then the engine is faulty, its power and efficiency are below normal.

But since the engine has withstood these tests, listen to its work carefully again. The sound should be smooth, not rattling. Fingers covering his body should not feel sharp vibrations. And the outlines of the shaft should be clear, not blurry. Otherwise, put the motor aside - it can fail you due to armature eccentricity and shaft runout.

So, all the excitement behind - you picked up the engine. But do not rush to install it on the model. Stand it upright, apply one or two drops of liquid oil to the base of the shaft and spin it. Do the same with the other end of the shaft.

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