MODELING
Miniature Patrol. Tips for a modeler Directory / Radio control equipment The dream of many guys who build model ships is to create a mini-ship that is very similar to the real prototype they like. At the same time, it would be nice to participate in competitions with him. We offer a good option - a model of the English search and patrol boat RAF 340, made on a scale of 1:42,7 according to the requirements of the popular EX class. A small twin-shaft ship from the Second World War participated in the search and rescue of downed or crashed pilots over the sea, repelling German air attacks on British territory. The vessel developed a speed of up to 45 knots. A simplified model is built using one common "boat motor" manufactured by the Leningrad plant as a motor unit. As a power source, it is better to use a block of nickel-cadmium batteries with a capacity of 1,2 Ah and a voltage of 7,2V to 9V. In the absence of such, a pair of "square" 4,5V batteries will always help out. Do not forget about the switch in the motor-battery circuit. Work on the hull of the boat model begins with the manufacture of counter-templates from thin sheet plastic or electric cardboard. According to them, the contours of the master model, cut out of polystyrene of the PS-4-40 type or packaging, are adjusted. The blank blank is assembled with a margin of height above the deck level from two pieces of foam, between which a hull side projection template is glued (cut out of electric cardboard or millimeter plywood). The finished master model is pasted over with ordinary writing or newsprint on liquid PVA-type glue. The paper is pre-soaked for 30-40 minutes. Pasting is carried out in strips forming the bottom and sides (2 layers with layer-by-layer drying). After complete drying, "ribbons" of fiberglass impregnated with epoxy resin 0,1-0,15 mm thick are applied to it, in the same sequence as paper. Power sheathing is placed in two or three layers. Two is enough if ED-20 resin is used. Fiberglass is not needed on the transom. After the resin has cured, the surface is sanded, puttied, sanded clean again and primed with liquid nitro varnish. Then the foam block is removed from the resulting vykpeyka.
Position numbers correspond to figure 2. Strange as it may seem at first glance, the paper, after wetting and applying a limited amount of PVA glue diluted to it, is boiled at specific nodes, especially the deadwood exit. A motor unit and a power supply are mounted on the prepared places. Deadwood is recommended to be glued with Moment or Phoenix waterproof glue, since this connection often begins to leak water due to vibrations. These adhesives are elastic and eliminate this problem. It is very useful to paste over these joints from the inside of the case with a strip of fiberglass on epoxy. Now it's time to decide how best to make the deck - one-piece or glued, but with cutouts for access to internal equipment. In this case, the deck can be made of plywood 1,2 mm thick, fiberglass or polystyrene. The steering wheel is made of tin. The axis is made of brass wire or tube. The rudder feather is soldered to it, after which the axle lubricated with grease is placed in a bearing tube glued into the body. In the inner part of the hull pasting, the position of the deck line is marked. Racks of 3x3 mm are glued flush with it along the sides. To make them well arched along the body, they are pre-steamed in hot water. Clothespins are used to press the rails for the period of gluing. After the seams have completely dried, the upper excess "shell" of the body is cut off. The inside of the boat model is primed with nitro-lacquer three to five times. A deck is installed or glued on top of the rails. The junction of the deck and sides is completely sanded and varnished. If a deck option with cutouts for hatches is implemented, then it is recommended to frame the openings with 3x5 mm slats. Before proceeding to add-ons, determine for yourself with what degree of copying to reproduce the prototype. Some small details are difficult to simulate at this scale of the model, and therefore we recommend that you first make a list of what you need to copy and what not. This will greatly facilitate the work on the design of the model. Remember that some parts have different colors, and you should not rush to glue them on the deck immediately after manufacturing. Large units - a wheelhouse, ventilation shafts, pipes, a platform for an easel machine gun - can be made from 1,2 mm plywood or electric cardboard (pressboard) 0,8 mm thick. The remaining much smaller parts can also be made from other suitable materials - pieces of polystyrene, polystyrene, wood and tin. Antennas and masts are bent and soldered from wire, streamers - from thread or fishing line. Plywood, cardboard and wooden parts must be primed with nitro-varnish three to five times and painted with waterproof enamels according to the colors of the prototype. Spear elements made of plastic and metal are painted without a primer. Finished parts of the superstructures are mounted on the deck, and then fine detailing is mounted on them. The side view of the prototype boat shows the waterline, which corresponds to the separation of the colors of the hull. Below the waterline the color is black. The surface part of the hull and the cabin are gray with a blue tint. Lifebuoys and inflatable rafts are orange. Inlets of ventilation shafts, pipes, searchlight and mast are dark gray. A round platform under a machine gun and a boat - white. The base of the round platform is brown. Author: V.Artamov We recommend interesting articles Section Modeling: See other articles Section Modeling. Read and write useful comments on this article. Latest news of science and technology, new electronics: A New Way to Control and Manipulate Optical Signals
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