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TOOLS AND MECHANISMS FOR AGRICULTURE
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Mini tractor MT-5. Drawing, description

Tools and mechanisms for agriculture

Directory / Tools and mechanisms for agriculture

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Tractor selection

In the Non-Chernozem zone of Russia, with its difficult soils, the use of a mini-tractor seriously increases the productivity of the farmer. In many villages of our region, motoblocks and baby tractors assembled by the hands of enthusiasts annually work on household plots. But often their builders find it difficult to answer the question: why did they stop at this or that scheme of their tractor? The starting point here, in my opinion, should be on the purpose for which the future machine is intended and how many people will use it.

For individual use, it is necessary to design walk-behind tractors - one- or two-wheeled with engines from Vyatka, Tula-200 or motorcycles of the same power with forced air cooling, say, taken from a C3A motorized stroller.

Mini tractor MT-5
Rice. 1. The layout of the units and the MT-5 unit: 1 - muffler, 2 - engine, 3 - nodal gearbox, 4 - gearbox, 5 - cardan joint, b - rear axle, 7 - attachment control gearbox, 8 - lifting chain mounted implements, 9 - tractor frame, 10 - subframe, 11 - agricultural implements frame

A mini-tractor is rather a collective tillage tool. It is preferable to assemble it from the most common automotive and motorcycle components and parts. Engine power is required here more than that of walk-behind tractors: Izhevsk ones are suitable, from K-750. The difficulty of cooling such a motor is overcome by installing a water pump or pump while using an automobile fan. Such an agricultural unit will ensure the prompt processing of several plots. Low-power home-made tractors of the "Vladimirets" type have not been ordered either. This will already be a tractor for public use - for a horticultural cooperative.

Orientation - to serial nodes

My MT-5 fits the second such type. MT - means a mini-tractor, and 5 - indicates that this is the fifth model, so much of it, as they say, has been brought to condition. It is assembled mainly from components and assemblies produced by the industry. I tried to arrange it so that there was no access to all nodes and assemblies. It is difficult, of course, to ensure safety requirements: all rotating mechanisms are covered with easily removable casings and panels.

The engine was supplied from IZH-56P with a “blower” for cooling from a C3A motorized stroller (I didn’t have a water cooling system then). Rear axle from "Volga", only shortened. Gearbox from GAZ-51. Steering column and seat from UAZ. There are two gearboxes. One with a ratio of 1,3:1 had to be installed to change the direction of power transmission from the engine to the gearbox at an angle of 90 °. The other, with a ratio of 15:1, is for controlling mounted agricultural implements: lifting, lowering using a chain drive.

The front axle is self-made, from water pipes, like a "swinging pendulum", like on wheeled tractors, and the wings, hood, frame for mounted implements are made of metal corners and sheet scraps. The front wheels with hubs and rubber are taken from C3A, the rear wheels are from MTZ-52 (its front ones).

MT-5 has the necessary set of forward and reverse gears and neutral. Speed ​​from 0,5 to 40 km/h. Gauge 0,9 m with extension if necessary (for example, for hilling potatoes) up to 1,3 m.

Assembly - reverse order

DIY enthusiasts often complain about the frustrations that the assembly of structures gives them, meaning numerous completions and alterations. Most try to copy someone else's designs. However, it is more rational to focus on the selected system, and use the details that are available. The work will go faster and cheaper - you will have to purchase only the necessary minimum, and, importantly, there is room for creativity.

The assembly usually starts with the frame, front end, engine installation, etc. I advise you to start with the rear axle first. It is necessary to put in place all its parts, connect it to the gearbox, fasten the flanges. Before tightening the fixing bolts, turn the gears several times, adjust their free play, and also make sure that the box stands up without distortion - strictly along an imaginary center line passing through the connected parts of the tractor.

We will connect the gearbox or the engine itself with them. We will do this, as they say, on weight - on stands, arranging them so that all nodes are in the same horizontal plane. Having achieved the absence of shaft runout, we fix the bolts on the couplings and flanges. It remains to decide where the front axle will be located, how it will be attached to the frame, and install it in the intended place.

Now proceed to the operation that is usually carried out first - to mark the frame (chassis), but already "in the open", "in place", and to its manufacture. A different assembly usually leads to the "care" of the installation sites, to the "failure" of dimensions, which leads to the repeated movement of the units.

you have already installed power and running units on the frame, you need to test the entire structure. Let the engine idle for a while by lifting the rear wheels off the ground on the goats.

Finally, mark the places, and then strengthen the nodes and parts of the steering, engine and gearbox controls, clutch, protective covers, fenders, hood, seats.

I repeatedly recommended this assembly order to amateur designers who contacted me - their feedback was always positive.

How to attach a plow

Another typical difficulty is failures with the installation of agricultural implements on a tractor. In my opinion, the reason often lies in the not quite right choice of the place of the towing device. For example, where should the plow be located? After all, plowing, as you know, is an operation that requires high power output from the engine. If the plow is stronger than necessary, is shifted to or behind a wheel, then the hitch will begin to drift towards this wheel. And two or three plows, which, with their appropriate arrangement, could bring the acting forces into some balance, the mini-tractor will not pull.

The exit is next. Firstly, reduce the track to 90-100 cm - this is the maximum for plowing. Secondly, move the plow attachment to the center so that the wheels on its side follow the furrow. In this case, the tractor has a certain angle of inclination. For example, the MT-5 has right wheels in the furrow. Therefore, before plowing, I set the plow with the same deviation from the vertical to the right, so that when working it takes a vertical position. Accordingly, in this case, its toe must be turned by 1-2 °, but already to the left. Then the "resistance" of the earth will select all the gaps, turn the machine back (again to the right) and the implement will become in the longitudinal plane of the tractor. Thirdly, it became necessary to observe a certain ratio between the distance from the subframe, the tractor mounted plow mounted on the frame, and the height of the junction of the subframe and frame above the ground. It must be at least 3:1, otherwise the plow spontaneously jumps out - rises from the furrow without going deep into the soil. On the MT-5, this led to the fact that the length of the frame exceeded a meter, and the height of the connection point above the ground, on the contrary, decreased to 30 cm.

Mini tractor MT-5
Rice. 2. Installation of the plow: α - installation angle due to roll MT-5, β - toe turning angle.

Mini tractor MT-5
Rice. 3. Installing a mounted plow: 1 - tractor subframe, 2 - connection point, 3 - plow frame, 4 - plow

A few more words about the rational use of a mini-tractor with various agricultural implements. When growing, for example, potatoes in the spring with the help of MT-5, I plow the site with simultaneous harrowing of the soil. The harrow is hung on a special bracket on chains immediately behind the plow and can be raised simultaneously with it. Since the right wheels of the tractor go along the previously made furrow and take part of the plowing behind the right rear wheel, I also install an arrow cultivator for repeated partial loosening of the "damaged" strip. I cut the ridges with three hillers at once. At the next call, one of them is already used as a guide. During this operation, the cultivator again has to be placed behind the rear wheel. I plant potatoes, if I may say so, "in semi-machine mode", that is, the tubers are laid manually in the furrow drawn by the extreme hiller, and on the next run it is covered with earth on both sides by the other two, and the extreme one again leads-opens a new furrow.

I also spud the ridges with three tools at once, and I increase the MT-5 gauge to 130 cm and the wheels go between the ridges (the distance between them in my garden is 65 cm). I plow crops with a horse-drawn plow - a right-hand plow, so I start work on the left side of the site - from the left extreme bed, moving the earth and open tubers to the right to the neighboring bed that has not yet been touched. This has its advantages: when harvesting potatoes, it is easier to dump the earth from top to bottom, back, and just made a furrow. At the same time, the garden is being leveled.

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