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BUILDER, HOUSEHOLDER
Toilet repair. Tips for the home master
Directory / Builder, home master The durability and reliable operation of the toilet requires the fulfillment of only two conditions - do not drop heavy objects on it and use it exclusively for its intended purpose. However, malfunctions in the operation of the bathroom, for example, leaks, blockages, can seriously spoil the mood of the owner. Therefore, let's talk about how to avoid these malfunctions, and if one does happen, learn how to eliminate it yourself, without wasting time and nerves waiting for a plumber. The industry produces toilets of several types (they are shown in the figure), which differ from each other in the form of release and some other structural elements. From my point of view, the most successful design is a bowl-type toilet with a solid shelf for attaching a flush tank. The undoubted advantage of this design is the absence of a connecting cuff between the tank and the inlet - and it has the unpleasant property of breaking through and leaking, and there is practically no threat of breakage of the shelf to such a toilet bowl. These toilets come with straight and oblique outlet. Direct release - less hydraulic resistance, however, it can only be installed at a certain position of the sewer pipes in the bathroom. So, about possible malfunctions. Most often, these include a leak at the junction of the outlet and the sewer pipe. It must be said that in most cases the cause of the leak is blockage: if there is no blockage, then even from small cracks water will not get on the floor. But gaps still need to be eliminated. You can caulk them with linen strands folded into flagella. Burlap is also suitable for this purpose, in extreme cases, cotton fabric is also suitable, but the latter will need to be lightly oiled so that it does not drip. Push the sealing flagella with a caulk or a screwdriver blade into the annular gap between the sewer pipe and the outlet, having previously cleared the gap from the remnants of the previous seal. After that, the groove between the pipe and the outlet should be covered with cement or a mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 1. To prevent the putty from chipping, wrap a fresh cement joint with a bandage, over which again apply a liquid cement solution. Sometimes, instead of cement, the groove on top of the seal is covered with plasticine, in which case the groove must certainly be dry.
The elimination of blockage should be started with a plunger that fits into the siphon hole in size. The plumbing plunger must be nailed to the handle - otherwise you will miss it, the trouble will be twice as much. If there is no suitable plunger in the house, you can simply wind the rag in a lump on a stick, also, of course, carefully securing it. It happens that cleaning with a plunger does not give results. Then you have to work with a cable. For cleaning sewer pipes, a flexible steel spiral cable with a diameter of 10-15 mm is used. You can also use the more common - stranded, however, such a cable is more rigid and its diameter should not exceed 6 mm. The cleaning technique is as follows: with the left hand, as deep as possible, the cable should be thrust into the hole in the siphon, and the right hand pushes the cable, helping its movement. In most cases, this is enough to eliminate the blockage, and if not, there is only one way out: remove the toilet bowl and clean the sewer pipe directly. A toilet bowl of any kind is installed on a thick wooden board - taffeta, to which it is attached with screws. This board is embedded directly into the concrete of the floor and lasts for decades, however, the tree does not last forever, sooner or later the taffeta rots and needs to be replaced. This work is laborious, and it must be done in this sequence. First remove the screws holding the toilet to the taffeta. If they are pretty rusty and do not lend themselves, you will have to cut them, skipping the hacksaw blade between the end of the tide and the floor. Then, by closing the valve and disconnecting the water supply from the drain tank, you need to remove the entire structure from the sewer pipe. It is better to do this together, and if you work alone and the shelf is not solid, you will first have to disconnect the drain tank. Lean the removed toilet against the wall, placing a rag under the outlet so that water does not leak, and take a close look at the taffeta. After removing the old board, clean the recess from the cement. New taffeta is best cut from a thick oak board. The outlet hole is drilled around the perimeter, the jumpers between the holes are cut with a chisel. Before installing the taffeta, it is a good idea to properly proliferate, thereby extending its service life. Nails must be stuffed into the bottom surface of the taffeta so that they protrude by 20-30 mm. In the hardened cement, the nails will securely hold the structure. Now it remains to fill the recess with a cement mixture, lay the taffeta and install the toilet bowl on it, screwing it with screws. A day or two, until the cement finally sets, do not create lateral loads. The toilet bowl can also be glued directly to the concrete floor using EDP glue and similar epoxy-based compounds, but now, in the event of a blockage, it will no longer be possible to remove it - the epoxy glue seizes "tightly". And in general, in all cases, it is better not to try to use the toilet as a garbage chute. Remember that most often the cause of blockage is bones, paper, rags that fall into the sewer pipes. Here, in fact, are all the recommendations, following which apartment owners will be guaranteed from troubles with plumbing. Author: V. Volkov
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