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Collapsible house-hozblok. Tips for the home master

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On the garden or garden part, a capital house is not needed - they often get by with a light small building such as a utility block. In such a room, they also need participation in the dacha, starting the construction of a future dacha, which often drags on for more than one season. However, all such buildings are needed only in summer: from late autumn, all winter and until spring warming, they are empty, open to bad weather and an unkind "visitor". Now, if they could not only be put up, but also removed, stored for storage when the active season was over.

The development of a garden plot, as a rule, begins with the construction of a utility block. Usually ready-made kits for construction are used. But very often, rather miserable structures are knocked together in a hurry, which are then demolished or fall apart on their own.

The construction of a collapsible garden house is offered to the attention of novice developers, the details of which can be made in advance, and the assembly is carried out on site in an extremely short time. Unlike traditional options, the house is not overweight with load-bearing frame elements. Based on the proposed solution, everyone can independently determine the final dimensions for themselves, depending on the available materials, real needs and possibilities.

A collapsible hozblok consists of a room with an area of ​​9 sq.m and a terrace with an area of ​​4.5 sq.m. The supporting frame is made of 16 boards with a cross section of 120x40 mm. The dimensions of the cross-section of the frame elements may be different, but in the direction of increase, and at the same time, the ratio of thickness to width of 1: 3 must be observed, at least at the joints of the frame elements. The scheme of the supporting frame and the connection node are shown in the figures.

To ensure the assembly of wall panels from scraps of boards, the horizontal frame elements are additionally bursting with H-shaped cross-section racks located in the middle. If the boards with which it is supposed to fill the walls are long and have a thickness of at least 40 mm, they, of course, should not be sawn, and the decision of the panels should be modified accordingly. It is possible that with poor-quality assembly, the walls can lead - then, you may still have to impose additional vertical screeds from bars (outside and inside) on M8 bolts on them.

The height of the vertical racks of the frame is determined by the dimensions of the door unit at your disposal. In our case, it is 210 cm. The length of the horizontal frame elements is 470 cm. At a distance of about a third of the length, through holes 40x120 mm in size are made in them. At the ends of all load-bearing elements of the frame there are grooves 40x120 mm in size.

Rice. 1. Collapsible utility block: 1 - foundation, 2 - corner sheathing board, 3 - metal wall panel screed, 4 - embedded wall boards, 5 - horizontal frame elements, 6 - rafters, 7 - coupling bolt, 8 - ceiling - "floor", 9 - window to the terrace, 10 - vertical frame elements, 11 - plank floor

Fig.2. Frame of the house: 1 - vertical elements of the frame, 2 - horizontal elements (longitudinal, the longest, set with an edge)

Rice. 3. Stem node connected (1) and vertical (2) frame elements

Rice. 4. Layout of the wall strut of the frame and laying the wall boards: 1 - horizontal frame elements, 2 - vertical frame elements, 3 - spacer, 4 - spacer restrictive bars, 5 - embedded wall boards. A - spacer design option: 1 - horizontal frame element, 2 - spacer bar, 3 - restrictive boards forming grooves for laying wall boards

Rice. 5. Foundation concrete columns (A - pyramidal, B - cylindrical) with embedded elements for the frame of the utility block: 1 - column, 2 - wooden cork, 3 - metal profile

Fig.6. Wall panel rallying: 1 - wooden mallet, 2 - overlay board with an expanded groove, 3 - wall boards (they are laid in different directions according to the pattern of annual rings)

Three vertical posts, located near the center line of the structure, have spikes at the ends with a section of 40x40 mm, for which it is necessary to make corresponding holes in the horizontal elements of the frame.

For such a simplified house, it is possible to use a simplified foundation of any type. However, it is best of all - columnar, using, for example, asbestos-cement pipes located under the vertical frame elements. But since the mass of the house is relatively small, the frame must be securely connected to the foundation to resist tipping over from the wind load. To do this, for example, pre-antiseptic wooden plugs can be mounted in concrete supports, to which the frame is attached with capercaillie. Or metal fittings are used: channels, corners of a suitable section.

The overall stability of the structure in relation to all kinds of distortions is ensured by reinforcing the frame with diagonal braces made of wire with a diameter of 8-10 mm, with threaded ends. The horizontality of the mating plane of the foundation is controlled by a level, and the verticality of the uprights is controlled by a plumb line, by manipulating the degree of tension of the braces.

On the vertical elements of the frame after its assembly, bars with a section of 40x40 mm and 80x40 mm are attached (on the corner posts - boards 120x40 mm): they form grooves for laying the boards of wall panels. Boards are laid from the inside of the house, from top to bottom. Therefore, the bars inside the room should not reach the top to the width of the board.

Filling wall openings is best done with tongue-and-groove boards (40 mm thick, but boards of smaller thickness can also be used, including those joined in a quarter). To reduce the formation of cracks from warping of the boards, it is recommended to fill the wall openings, taking into account the location of the growth rings in the boards, as shown in the figure. In this case, the crest of the tongue should be oriented upwards to prevent the penetration of moisture. For better sealing of tongue and groove joints when laying boards, it is recommended to use a badge - a powerful mallet - and a piece of board with an expanded tongue groove.

Upon completion of filling the wall panels, the gaps between the longitudinal elements of the frame and the last board are temporarily filled with some kind of sealing material. After shrinkage of the walls in the future, it will be possible to install permanent boards.

For the device of the roof of the hozblok, four truss arches are pre-assembled. The connection of the rafters in the area of ​​the roof ridge is carried out using a metal tie with a diameter of 8 ... 10 mm with a thread at the ends. Place metal washers under the nuts. The cross section of the rafters must be at least 40x100 mm. Curly cuts are made in the rafters for fastening to the frame and M8 steel bolts are used.

If the roof is made of asbestos-cement sheets, then for the lathing it is necessary to use bars with a section of 40x60 mm, placing them at a distance of 500 mm (one roof sheet should rest on three bars). For more economical use of slate, part of the sheets will have to be cut in half with a hacksaw or, having punched holes with a punch, carefully break the sheet. For a soft roof, the crate, of course, must be made denser.

It is not advisable to cover the attic space above the living room of such a small-sized utility block with a ceiling deck. However, to improve the internal appearance of the house, the rafters from the inside must be sheathed with high-quality material: clapboard or hardboard on a frame made of slats. It is advisable to use non-corrosive fasteners: hardboard, for example, can be nailed with aluminum alloy nails used for fastening a soft roof, or any other, but galvanized. In the terrace area, on the contrary, it is desirable to create an attic space by covering the ceiling with boards 40 mm thick: a kind of bed or a mini-bedroom "for two people" is formed. The pediments of the utility block are sewn up with high-quality material, providing the proper density or "overlap" at the joints of boards or sheets. Above the terrace it is necessary to provide a window for ventilation of the house.

The device of the floor does not require special explanations, there have been many publications on this topic. Logs are attached to the longitudinal boards of the frame (previously antiseptic - for example, with the Senezh tool), only three pieces, with a section of at least 80x80 mm. In their middle part, additional supports are arranged. Floor boards are taken with a thickness of 40 mm. To simplify assembly and disassembly, the cladding of the rafters, ceiling, gables and floor can be made in the form of solid panels attached, for example, to furniture screws or bolts.

Author: A.Nizovtsev

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