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BUILDER, HOUSEHOLDER
Safe cellar. Tips for the home master
Directory / Builder, home master Despite the widespread use of electric refrigerators, such a structure as a cellar does not give up its positions. Especially - in the countryside and in suburban areas, where in these economically equipped, compact storage facilities with good waterproofing and skillfully selected ventilation, they still have not forgotten how to maintain the required temperature and humidity conditions and favorable conditions for saving products that do not rot for a long time and do not dry out, without losing their unique taste and smell. However, if earlier a detached cellar was the most common, today, in order to save space, many people prefer compact storage of vegetables, fruits and homemade food, equipped under a summer kitchen, a shed, a garage ... In particular, I prefer a semi-recessed extension to the blank wall of the house. This is the so-called wall, absolutely safe cellar (Fig. 1). Its design is in many ways reminiscent of the popular version of the greenhouse extension. It is not surprising: the fundamental parts in both cases are the wall of the house and the mini-pit. But there are also significant differences. In the greenhouse, as you know, there is a greenhouse effect, which imposes its limitations on many features of the building, from the transparent roof to the trench profile. The heating of the wall cellar is carried out mainly due to the soil (deep) heat accumulated by the surface layers of the earth in the summer (accumulation of solar energy by the soil) with the introduction of a heat additive received from the wall of the house itself. The temperature in such a storage is kept stable, since the thermal conductivity of the soil and the wall is low. In winter, heat enters the cellar from the soil, and cold in spring and summer, since the soil at this time has a lower temperature than the surrounding outside air. Additional walls of the cellar recommended by me are laid out from red, well-burnt clay bricks on a cement-sand mortar. However, monolithic concrete and flagstone can be used here. The walls are plastered with cement mortar, and from the outside they are waterproofed with coating - hot bitumen in two layers. The floor must be cement, 50 mm thick, laid on compacted gravel. Overlapping - from a thick slab with hewn edges, on which a layer of crumpled clay is laid, and then roofing material in two layers. The use of timber with cracks and end splits, indicating a decrease in its strength, is not allowed.
It is also impossible to use material that was in use (from the dismantling of old houses, even seemingly quite strong ones), since this wood is usually infected with fungal spores. For the same reason, timber that has lain under the open sky for a long time (three years or more) should not be used, as well as dead wood, which is usually weakened by wood-boring beetles and less durable in a humid environment. In any case, I recommend treating the wood chosen for the construction of the cellar with an antiseptic solution. It is best to start the construction of the cellar in the middle of summer, when the groundwater level is at its lowest. Of course, before starting work, it is necessary to prepare all the necessary building material in order to subsequently prevent interruptions in work. At the chosen place, it will be necessary to remove the vegetation layer, and then make an earthen excavation of 500 mm or more (the depth depends on the level of standing groundwater). The excavation will improve the heating of the cellar with soil heat. The selected soil can be used for the outer bunding of the cellar Further technology is largely traditional. The base of the excavation is rammed and covered by 70 - 100 mm (with subsequent compaction) with coarse sand, fine gravel, sifted brick rubble, expanded clay, etc. Such padding will reliably protect the cellar from dampness. A mini-foundation is laid on the draining material, on which three walls of red brick are carefully erected (not forgetting about waterproofing!) Embankment - dry earth or peat with grass sowing Around the cellar at a distance of 1 - 1,8 m arrange a drainage groove. The height of the cellar to the ceiling is 1,8 m. Inside, on one side of the passage, lattice bins are placed, raised 100 mm above the floor, on the other (at a distance of 500 - 600 mm in height) - shelves. Bins are made about 1 m high with a slatted floor for ventilation. In order to avoid freezing of the cellar in case of severe frosts, the ceiling is additionally insulated. A drainage groove with a depth of about 300 mm is arranged around the cellar, which can even be filled with drainage material: stone, broken brick, rubble or brushwood from branches peeled from the bark. The whole cellar is covered with earth and sown with grass or covered with sod. This helps to maintain a constant temperature inside the cellar. Moreover, the cellar hill itself is often used for planting ornamental plants. As the outstanding Russian scientist and agronomist Andrey Timofeevich Bolotov (1738-1833) wrote, a solid cellar "is required to be dry and rather spacious, so that it is not stuffy in it, but there should not be a cool wind (draft), because it dries the vegetables If, on the contrary, he is deaf (with stagnant, unventilated air) and cheese, then the vegetables rot." Of course, to maintain a normal temperature and humidity regime in the cellar, there must be a fairly good supply and exhaust ventilation. At the same time, it is good to install two pipes - exhaust and supply, which, for better air exchange, are located at two levels and, if possible, in different places in order to avoid sucking in fresh air. The exhaust pipe is placed at the top, just under the ceiling, and the supply pipe is placed below and at a height of 500-600 mm from the floor. The movement of air through them occurs due to the difference in the specific gravity of cold outdoor and warm indoor air, therefore such a ventilation system is called natural. The use of more exhaust pipes of small cross section is undesirable, especially in the northern regions. In addition, there is always an additional inflow of outside air through the slots and leaky hinged door. The speed of air movement is greater, the higher the temperature difference in the cellar and outside. Pipes are made of thick (30-40 mm), well-fitted and tightly knocked together boards, they are equipped with valves (valves) and dampers to regulate air exchange and temperature and humidity conditions. For a small cellar, you can limit yourself to one two-channel ventilation pipe (with wind trapping), for which it is divided vertically into two channels. Through one channel, air enters the wall storage, and through the other it is pushed out. For each channel, you can make an independent valve. In the cellar, it is useful to hang a thermometer in order to accurately record the temperature. But it is even better to install a psychrometer, which allows you to measure the temperature and determine the relative humidity of the air - a very important characteristic of its condition. For example, the optimum storage temperature for potatoes is from +2 to +5°C at a relative humidity of 85 - 95%. At low relative humidity, potatoes (as well as root crops stored for storage) dry out. Conversely, too high humidity can lead to the formation of condensation water, which, combined with elevated temperatures, creates favorable conditions for the development of rot and premature germination of tubers. It is easy to make a psychrometer yourself: two alcohol thermometers are fixed side by side on a common stand. The ball of one of them is tightly wrapped with a thin cloth - cambric or gauze dipped in water (preferably distilled); the ball of the other must be dry. Wet thermometer readings will be noticeably lower than dry ones, since moisture from the surface of the ball continuously evaporates and heat is expended on this. By the difference between the values of dry and wet thermometers, using a special table (see the above publication), absolute and relative humidity and dew point are determined. In exceptional cases (for example, when a psychrometer has not yet been installed in a new cellar), for the first time it is possible to determine the maximum permissible air humidity "by eye". In particular, it is impossible not to notice that with excessive dampness, the walls and ceiling (ceiling) become wet, covered with water drops and mold, and the top layer of potatoes is moistened. There is a musty smell. And that means it's time to take action! And further. In cellars, it is recommended to use not mercury, but alcohol thermometers in order to prevent dangerous poisoning if, by negligence, the glass flask of the "mercurial" suddenly breaks. It must be remembered that mercury vapor is the strongest poison and has the ability to accumulate in the human body. Now about lighting and wiring. It should not be forgotten that all cellars and cellars for storing vegetables are potentially dangerous premises from the point of view of electrical supervision specialists. Earthen and concrete floors, damp walls, high humidity do not give the right to use the household electrical network directly for wiring. To avoid electric shock, a transformer that steps down the voltage to at least 36 V is required. In the absence of a special transformer for this purpose, for example, the "silovik" TVS-180-2 from the old tube TV UNT-47/50 is suitable without any alteration. The windings of such a voltage converter are distributed equally on two coils located on the magnetic circuit (Fig. 2). Both primary (network) windings are connected in series, and grounded screens (brass protective pads) are placed between them and the secondary ones. In the event of a breakdown of the "phase" of the mains voltage to the grounded screen, only the fuse FU1 burns out. In this case, high voltage does not pass to the step-down windings, which fully meets the safety requirements. The conclusions of the windings of our basic transformer are soldered to the petals with the corresponding numbering (on one coil, the numbers are without strokes, and on the other - with strokes). With certain combinations of connections, you can get, for example, a 36-volt voltage for standard cellar electric lighting (say, for a 60-watt incandescent lamp), and 12-volt voltage for "carrying". Removing the "silovik" from the old UNT-47/50 is quite simple. It is only necessary to unscrew the four fixing screws on the metal chassis of the lamp TV, unsolder the multi-colored wires that extended from the transformer leads, and then solder them according to the new wiring diagram that you have adopted. A two-amp fuse and a switch must also be inserted into the phase wire of the mains winding circuit.
It is desirable to fix the transformer on an electrical panel, close it with a grounded casing, while connecting both the magnetic circuit and the electrostatic windings to the "Earth" terminal. You can not install the transformer directly in the cellar itself. Electrical wiring in the cellar is carried out in an open way, on rollers or anchors with insulators. In this case, a wire with copper conductors and double rubber insulation in a braid of cotton yarn impregnated with an anti-rotting compound is used. PR and PRG are considered the most suitable for this purpose; as an exception, it is allowed to use wire of the APR brand. Light bulbs are equipped with glass protective caps, with the use of moisture-proof fittings. Switches are placed outside, at the entrance to the cellar, at a height of 1,5 m. Installation of sockets in cellars and cellars is prohibited. Well, the inputs of electrical wiring to the cellar are carried out so that moisture does not accumulate on them. The harvest is laid in clean and disinfected storage facilities, therefore our cellar should be washed, ventilated and disinfected annually (of course - before laying!) The most accessible method of disinfection is whitewashing with lime (1 bucket of lime paste for 5-6 buckets of water) with the addition of 10% copper or iron sulfate to the solution (1 kg of crystals previously dissolved in warm water per 1 bucket of whitewash composition). Hard-to-reach places are sprayed with a rubber pear. A strong solution of potassium permanganate, as well as a "cigarette" decoction (50 g of dry shag or tobacco dust per 1 liter of water) can also be used as a disinfectant. In addition, for disinfection, the cellar can be annually fumigated with sulfur, pouring it onto a hot frying pan or baking sheet with hot charcoal at the rate of: 30 - 60 g per 1 m3 of room volume. At the same time, the door is tightly closed, the cracks are covered with clay dough, and a cotton mattress or an old blanket can be used to seal the hatch (if any). After 1 - 2 days, the cellar is ventilated. Sometimes sanitary rules force us to take more drastic measures. All affected areas are then cut down or cut out. Removed wood is burned immediately, but not in the stove or on the site, so as not to contribute to the spread of infection. Then, within a radius of 1 m from the source of damage, the wood, which seems to be healthy, is removed and burned. The rest (healthy) wood is subjected to thorough antiseptic treatment with one of the most effective solutions. Moreover, all temporary foundations of walls and plinths at the junction of beams, brackets and ceilings affected by a fungal infection are burned out with a blowtorch or gas burner (with strict observance of fire safety rules!) To a depth of 10 - 20 mm. The earthen floor is sprinkled with a thin (1 cm) layer of fluffy lime. To destroy insects that often get into the cellar with stored vegetables, as well as to combat mold and putrefactive fungi, the vapors generated during the slaking of bleach can be used. For every 10 m3 of cellar volume, 2–3 kg of quicklime is taken, poured into a tank or other container, then filled with water and quickly left the cellar. At the same time, the door and the hatch (if there is one in the design of this storage facility) are carefully closed, sometimes even covered with clay to ensure tightness. The cellar is left closed for 1 - 2 days, after which it is thoroughly ventilated. Such treatment of the cellar should be carried out 2-3 times with an interval of 1 week in order to prevent insects and fungi from restoring viability. It is not recommended to use a bleach solution with a concentration of more than 40% for disinfection and disinfestation, as this threatens to acquire a specific taste for products. However, treatment with highly concentrated solutions is allowed if only seed material is stored in the cellar. Author: M.Povalyaev
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