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BUILDER, HOUSEHOLDER
Forge of six bricks. Tips for the home master
Directory / Builder, home master Craft lovers are often faced with the need to forge something from tools or household items. A temporary forge is easy to make from improvised means. Six refractory bricks, a blowtorch and a homemade grate made of a steel strip 3-4 mm thick are enough. In a fireproof place, a hearth of bricks is folded, as shown in Figure 1. Two cuttings of water pipes are placed on the lower ones, and a grate is placed on them so that there is a gap between it and the lower bricks. The grates - the transverse slats of the grate - are slightly bent so that they capture the flame of the blowtorch and direct it upwards.
Coal is poured onto the grate and a heated blowtorch is placed in front of the mountain (Fig. 2). The flame of the lamp ignites the coal and maintains its intensive burning in the future. It is only necessary to find the most effective direction of the flame, since obtaining a high temperature depends mainly on the blast. For safety reasons and to protect the blowtorch tank from overheating, it is advisable to isolate it from the heat of the forge with a screen made of non-combustible material. The workpieces to be forged are buried in hot coal, where they are kept until they are heated to a light orange color, which corresponds to a temperature of approximately 1000-1100 °C. Workpieces should not be kept for a long time, as their mechanical properties sharply deteriorate - the metal becomes brittle. They are usually forged with a hammer weighing 0,5-1 kg. And be sure to wear safety glasses to prevent hot scale from getting into your eyes. Any massive metal blank can serve as an anvil: a sledgehammer, a piece of rail, etc. The possibilities and techniques of hand forging are very diverse. To obtain, for example, a semicircular chisel, a red-hot plate is placed on a special stream in the anvil, a steel bar is applied on top and, striking it, the workpiece is bent (Fig. 3). If you need to dig out a sickle-shaped strip, then strikes should be made along one edge of the strip, as shown in Figure 4. And it itself will bend in the opposite direction. The head of a socket wrench is formed by driving a piece of a hexagonal profile into a hole in a heated workpiece (Fig. 5). Then the outer edges are forged. Hot metal is chopped with an ordinary chisel with a handle made of thick wire attached to it (Fig. 6). With the help of a forge, so-called forge welding is also carried out. If, for example, you need to join two plates with an overlap (as wheel rims of carts used to be welded), then they are heated in a forge until white heat (1300-1350 ° C), then the scale is removed by sprinkling with borax and brushing it off with a metal brush and, placing the plates one on top of the other, forged until they are welded. You just need to remember that only low-carbon steels are easily welded. Steel parts, in addition to welding, can also be soldered. To do this, they are tied with iron wire, covered with flux (brown) and heated in a furnace to an orange heat (900 °). Then, brass solders PMC-42, PMC-50 or just pieces of brass are added to the place of soldering. Paina ends when the poi spreads evenly along the seam. In a temporary forge, you can make household items: all possible grates, fireplace tongs, decorative hinges for doors and gates, candlesticks - they will give your home a special flavor. To make a forged candlestick (Fig. 7). a circle is cut out of metal, heated in a forge, then on the anvil, by hammer blows from the center of the blank to the edge in a spiral (the farther from the center, the weaker the blows should be), the tan blank is riveted so that it takes the form of a bowl. Stand - from a piece of metal strip. Its edges are flattened - they become wide and thin. In this case, the strip is partially curved. To give a more rigorous geometric shape, it is corrected on a metal round timber of the appropriate diameter. The handle also bends on the round timber. The bowl, handle and stand are drilled and connected with rivets. Door hinges (Fig. 8) are made as follows. Points, petals and loops are marked on the workpiece, and only loops are cut with a hacksaw for metal. The rest of the contour of the drawing is cut with a chisel so that the marking lines are visible on the later hot workpiece. The blanks are heated and the spears and petals are cut out with a chisel, which themselves are wrapped at the same time. The loops form a hammer on a metal rod of the appropriate diameter. Insert the axle and rivet it on both sides. Forged products to give black blued. They are first cleaned of lamellar scale, and then heated to about 300 ° and rubbed with a rag moistened with machine oil. Small objects are completely dipped in oil, and then rubbed with a rag. It is not recommended to strongly overheat the metal, as a new layer of scale may form on it, which will adversely affect the quality of the coating. You need to be even stricter with the heat treatment of tools, because their quality depends on the accuracy of observing its modes. Therefore, it is important to know the main types of heat treatment - hardening, annealing and tempering. Hardening increases the hardness and strength of steels. The metal is heated to 750-900 °C and dipped into a coolant: for carbon steels this is usually water (up to 10% table salt can be added to it, which increases its hardening ability), for alloy steels it is liquid machine oil. Annealing is used to soften steel, to facilitate its machining. The blanks are heated in the hearth as for hardening, but they are gradually cooled together with the hearth or they are buried in hot sand, where they cool slowly. Tempering softens the effect of hardening and increases the toughness of steel. There are high and low holidays. High is obtained by heating to 300-700 °C. The higher the tempering, the lower the hardness of the steel and the higher its ductility. Low tempering is obtained by heating to 200-300 °C followed by cooling in air. As a result, fragility decreases, and hardness remains almost unchanged. Such tempering is used mainly for heat treatment of cutting tools. The heating temperature during low tempering is determined by the colors of tarnish on the surface of the metal, cleaned of scale. Here are the temperatures (in degrees) these colors correspond to: light yellow - 220, yellow - 230 , dark yellow - 240, brown - 255, brown-red - 265, purple - 285, dark blue - 300, light blue - 325, gray - 330. Author: K. Skvortsov
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