Fur coat for the oven. Drawing, description

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Fur coat for the oven. Tips for the home master

Builder, home master

In old houses, you can sometimes still find surprisingly cozy and beautiful tiled stoves. Alas, today, like stove heating itself, tiles are becoming a thing of the past. And you can only find them as piece exhibits at exhibitions of ceramic artists. Is it possible, in the absence of tiles, to line your stoves with ceramic tiles? - readers often ask us. How to prepare mastic to stick tiles on stoves?

We have to disappoint: unfortunately, there are no adhesives or mastics for this purpose, just as there are no secrets for gluing tiles to the stove. Such cladding is impossible because when heated, the brick, tiles and mastic layer will have different expansions, and the tiles will soon fall off.

But did the tiles or tiles somehow stick to the ancient stoves? Yes, but these were not tiles: on the back side they were made in the form of a box and fastened with steel pins and soft wire, the ends of which were embedded in the seams between the bricks simultaneously with the laying of the stove.

Therefore, we suggest simply plastering the stove using one of the solutions listed below. At the same time, we remind you that the weakest of them is clay, since it is prepared without the addition of any other binder.

Before plastering, the surface of the stove must be well prepared, and before applying the mortar to the stove, it must be heated so that the mortar is applied to the hot walls.

Preparing the oven surface. When the masonry is finished and the stove has been standing for at least a month, you can begin preparatory work. The oven is cleaned of clay mortar, the same is done with the seams, which are cleared to a depth of at least 1 cm. This is the simplest method, ensuring a fairly strong adhesion of the plaster to the masonry.

There is also a more reliable preparation for plastering. It consists in the fact that after opening the seams and removing the mortar from them, nails with a length of 100 to 110 mm are driven in here, preferably at a certain angle. They must be driven in so that the caps protrude 5 mm above the surface and are spaced 15-18 cm apart from each other; vertically - after 2-3 rows of masonry.

A woven mesh with cells no larger than 20x20 mm is attached to the nails with soft furnace wire. This creates increased roughness, ensuring more reliable fixation of the solution on the surface of the furnace.

If the mesh is too soft and fits closely to the surface of the stove, steel wire 2,5-3 mm thick is laid under it near the nails and also attached to the nails.

Plastering solutions use several compositions, measuring the starting materials in volumetric parts and adding asbestos or finely chopped slag or glass wool to reinforce the solution. All components of the solution must be thoroughly mixed.

(click to enlarge)

Furnace surface preparation

Recipe 1. One part clay, one part lime paste, two parts sand, one tenth part asbestos. All components are added at the same time and mixed, adding water and bringing the solution to the desired thickness.

Recipe 2. One part clay, two parts sand, one part cement grade no lower than 300 and one tenth part asbestos. First, clay and sand are mixed together and water is added in such quantity to obtain a thick dough. Then asbestos and cement are introduced and everything is mixed a second time, water is added until a solution is obtained like thick sour cream. The solution must be used within an hour from the moment of preparation.

Recipe 3. One part gypsum, two parts lime paste, one part sand, two tenths asbestos. Lime dough is mixed with sand and asbestos until completely homogeneous, obtaining a thick dough. Take one part of gypsum, mix it with water until the thickness of liquid sour cream, add two parts of lime mortar, mix everything thoroughly and get the so-called factory. Density is regulated by water. This mixture is applied to the surface of the oven within 5-6 minutes from the moment of preparation, until the solution has set. Plants should be prepared no more than two liters - for the specified period this is quite enough for beginning plasterers. It is impossible to mix the thickened plant with the addition of water, since after this it does not set well, dries out, cracks and does not have the necessary strength.

Recipe 4. One part clay, two parts sand and one tenth part asbestos. This solution is the weakest. It should be said that the thickness of the plaster is considered good at 10 mm, sometimes it is increased to 15-20 mm, but this is already unnecessary.

Plastering is carried out on the hot walls of the furnace. First, they are moistened with water, then a liquid, creamy solution is applied - this layer is called a spray. As soon as it sets (gets a little stronger), a second layer of solution is applied to it - soil, thicker than the spray. It is recommended to apply layers 5-7 mm thick. After the soil has set, the surface is finally leveled - rubbed. If the thickness of the plaster is 15-20 mm, then the mortar is applied in three steps, each time leveling the layer of mortar - this makes it easier to rub over later. It is impossible to cover the soil with a thin layer and pure gypsum dough: during subsequent grouting, such a layer does not have strength.

Grouting is done after the solution has set, but is still quite soft. A wooden or metal plastic grater is taken with the right hand; The left hand holds a brush, which, if necessary, moistens the plaster with water. Grouting is carried out so that the plaster is clean and smooth, without missing spots or wear. If cracks form on the plaster as it dries, they are widened (cut), moistened with water, covered with the same solution and rubbed over again.

It is best to paint plaster with lime whitewash, to which you add, mixing well, table salt diluted in a glass of water (100 g per 10 liters of whitewash). Salt gives the whitewash strength and it does not chalk. Apply whitewash once or twice, but no more: a thick layer may crack as it dries.

Author: A.Shepelev

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