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BUILDER, HOUSEHOLDER
The best sauna heater. Tips for the home master
Directory / Builder, home master Equipping my bathroom for a bath, I decided to make a powerful (3-3,5 kW) and reliable heater myself. The most acceptable to me seemed to be an electric stove in a tin bucket with an asbestos-cement terminal block and brass studs covered with a folding metal casing (Fig. 1). But when I plugged this heater into an outlet, I smelled a burning smell.
The culprit was a poorly spring-loaded contact and loosely tightened terminals. After the elastic cheeks in the contact socket were properly pressed with round-nose pliers, and the ends of the wires in each terminal clamp were carefully stripped, twisted, soldered and securely tightened with a screw, the socket practically stopped heating, although the load connected to it was 3,5 kW. The next problem is the search for the optimal design of the heating element for the stove. Began to experiment. First, I tried a 1,5 kW pancake-shaped burner produced by the domestic industry for household electric stoves. Installed in a fireplace in a single copy, it was able (in 15 hours!) to warm up the bathhouse to only 50 °C. Then I used a combination of two combined burners connected in parallel, popular among home-made people (Fig. 2). And I realized: such a heater is not for me. Firstly, because the safety margin of double burners is only enough for 3 to 5 sessions. Secondly, it takes a lot of time and effort to make the combination. After all, the standard terminal blocks have to be removed, as well as the metal disks on which they are attached. And in the standard “flange” of each of the burners, cut out a recess for the leads. In addition, the heater turns out to be a bit expensive, the burners alone are worth it! And this is third.
In search of a suitable and cheaper design, I also considered a variant with a self-made heater inside a 150 mm piece of steel pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a wall thickness of 4 mm (Fig. 3). Such a "samovar" is convenient because, by removing the lid, you can easily replace the burned-out element. The only drawback is that the case itself quickly burns out even from a super-thick-walled steel pipe.
In the end, I came to the conclusion that the best heater for a sauna in the bathroom would be a nichrome wire spiral with a diameter of 1 mm and a length of 10 m. And I took annealed nichrome (it has a greenish tint and increased softness). The spiral was wound on a rod with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 600 mm using an impromptu machine from an electric drill with a speed controller (Fig. 4).
Instead of a spiral, you can make a less compact "snake". It is performed by bending a nichrome wire on a simple but effective device (Fig. 5.).
I stretched the nichrome spiral heater up to 3 m in length and laid it evenly between the stones. As practice shows, the first wire burnout occurs only after ten sessions of the most intensive use. But this period can be extended by observing one single rule: do not splash water on the stove until the spiral disconnected from the mains stops glowing, which takes no more than 15 minutes. Restoring the performance of the heater is easy. The technology is simple: they clean the spliced ends of a burnt-out spiral, fold it in half and, holding it with two pliers, twist it. After each such connection, the spiral naturally shortens. This means that the power of the heater increases. For example, in 32 bathing sessions, it increased (after several forced twists) to a critical value of 3,7 kW. At a power supply voltage of 220 V, this threatens to turn off the network with an overload protection circuit breaker (such devices, designed for a trip current of 16 A, are installed at the input to every modern apartment). What to do in such situations? Of course, you should not refuse a sauna at home. If the nichrome of the "heat generator" is still in good condition, then it is possible to reduce the consumed current, and hence the power, by turning on a D132-80-10 type diode in series with the heater on a powerful heat sink-radiator. There is another quite acceptable technical solution: to power the coil, which consumes significant current, through both 16-amp circuit breakers. It is only necessary to turn on the "heat generator" in two parallel sockets (each - from its own circuit breaker), provided that the meter is designed for 30-40 A. It is easiest to turn on in parallel using a special extension adapter with one socket and two plugs connected to it. They stick one plug into the socket of the first machine - voltage appears on the second. After making sure with the help of any indicator or control light that the phasing is correct, the second plug is connected to the socket of another machine. As a result, both sockets are connected in parallel. There is another, safer way - to stretch the outlet from the electrical panel (of course, through the meter). Moreover, the cross section of the wire in terms of copper should be at least 2,5 mm2. It is necessary to power such an outlet through an automatic machine with a trip current of 25 A. The matter is greatly facilitated if an electric stove is installed in the apartment. This means that there is already a socket for 25-40 A. After making sure that the voltage in the network is 220 V, and the cross section of the wires is sufficient, they also connect the "heat generator" here. For lovers of the exotic, I can offer a door spring as a heater. True, it must be connected through a welding-type transformer with forced cooling. After all, the resistance of such a spring is about 1 ohm. At a voltage of 60 V, a current of 60 A will flow through it, that is, the transformer will give 3,6 kW to the load, which is required. Author: L.Lobov
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