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EFFECTIVE FOCUSES AND THEIR CLUES Magic tables. Tips for a magician
Directory / Spectacular tricks and their clues The first thing that a magician needs when he starts to show his art from the stage is a small table with a sideboard. A sideboard is a secret shelf or other device where the items required by the magician are secretly - for the time being - stored; there he imperceptibly hides objects that have become unnecessary to him. In general, you can use any small table you have if you attach a sideboard shelf to it, as shown in fig. 1, A. The sideboard has a low (2-2,5 cm) side along the perimeter so that objects on it cannot fall. The shelf is covered with two layers of baize or batting quilted with material, otherwise the items you put on it will make unnecessary noise. For items that the magician has to throw on the sideboard (and such a need happens), a special box is placed 10x15 cm with a side 7-10 cm high; it is also lined with baize or batting.
We can recommend a removable-hinged sideboard, shown in fig. 1, B. It is attached with two metal brackets and clamping screws to the top of any table. The bracket is made of two independent strips 3 mm thick, interconnected by means of two screws fixing the shelf and one rivet, which is clearly seen in the detail of fig. 1, B. After hanging the shelf, the table is covered with a tablecloth, which is pinned with buttons so that it does not accidentally fall and spoil your entire performance. However, we strongly recommend that you make a special folding table, shown in fig. 2, A. With its help, you get rid of the need to adapt a new table for performance each time. In addition, this table looks beautiful from the stage and is convenient for transportation, as it takes up little space when disassembled. It is best to start making a table with a lid. We cut out two squares of 40 × 40 cm from eight-millimeter plywood; we will cut one of them across, as indicated by the dotted line in Fig. 2, B. One of the resulting rectangles (24x40 cm) on one side along the entire contour we glue with 2x5 cm bars (this is shown in our figure), and then dry it under a press, glue it with the sheet that remained not sawn (see figure ), and again put under the press to dry. In the meantime, taking a birch beam 8x8 (6) cm and drilling a through hole with a diameter of 3 cm in it (with a rotator), we will make part a (Fig. 2, B). It is desirable that it be cylindrical, but if you do not have the necessary tools, it can be square. This part is glued to the table top at point O, marked in fig. 2, B.
Let's move on to the manufacture of the sideboard. The shelf (16x40 cm) is cut out of 2 mm plywood, the sides are made of 2x2 cm bars. Under the shelf, tin brackets are nailed exactly in the middle of its long sides (Fig. 16, D). The shelf is fastened with a loop to a 40x2 cm rectangle sawn off by us from the table top (Fig. 90, B). In order for the shelf to be fixed in relation to the vertical sheet at an angle of 2 °, they are fastened at the corners with strips of tape (Fig. 2, A). The sideboard is attached to the bottom of the table cover through a loop (this is shown in Fig. XNUMX, D). For a table, it is better to take the so-called piano hinges - they are commercially available. You need to put them flush. Details of the sideboard, connected on hinges, are folded, retracting into one plane with the table top; they are fixed in this position with the help of small metal locks (turntables) attached to the bottom of the lid. From eight-millimeter plywood we will cut out the strip shown in fig. 2, E. If this strip is passed through tin brackets from the bottom of the sideboard shelf and one end is fixed there with a pin, for which holes are drilled in the side of the sideboard shelf and in the strip itself (Fig. 2, D), this strip, resting on its other end in the leg of the table, securely fix the shelf in a horizontal (working) position. Let's make the bottom - the supporting part of our table. We cut out two circles from plywood 8-10 mm thick - one with a diameter of 40 cm, the second - 25 cm. Detail b (Fig. 2, A) is done in the same way as the previously described detail a. In the center of the small circle, exactly in size and in accordance with the configuration of part b, a hole is cut out, after which the circles are glued and dried under pressure, and then the bottom of part b is smeared with glue and it is inserted into the hole cut out for it in the small circle. The last thing we will do is the leg of the table. It is round and has a diameter of 3 cm, its preliminary length should be equal to 100 cm. When all the details are ready, we will assemble our table. Insert the table leg into the hole of part b (it should enter it freely, but tightly, that is, not slosh in it). On the upper end of the leg we put on part a, which is glued to the table top; the leg of the table should also fit tightly into the hole here. We will fix the sideboard shelf in the working position and we will adjust the height of the table to your height - only under this condition will it be convenient for you to work with this table. The length of the leg of the table should be such that the shelf of the sideboard is exactly at the height of the slightly bent fingers of your free-hanging hand. So it is most convenient to put and take, imperceptibly for the audience, objects from the sideboard. After that, the table is cleaned with sandpaper and painted. The lid of the table and the shelf of the sideboard from below are painted with black matte paint. If the paint shines, then after drying it is skinned with a fine sandpaper. The leg and base of the table are painted a little more difficult. Enamel paint (of any color) is placed in a basin of boiling water and, when the paint is heated, it is first used to paint the leg of the table, but do not paint over its ends, which are inserted into parts a and b. Immediately after painting, they sprinkle the enamel with aluminum powder - "silver". Painting should be done indoors, without drafts, so that the powder does not scatter, and over a clean sheet of paper, on which excess aluminum powder will roll; it can then be collected for subsequent painting. Then the base of our table is painted in the same way. The leg and base of the table are allowed to dry for a day. Details and things painted in this way seem to be cast from metal. Use this method of painting more widely in the manufacture of apparatus and props. On top of the table cover, which is not painted, a tablecloth is glued, it hangs from three sides by 35 centimeters (Fig. 2, G) and thus hides our sideboard from the audience. It is desirable to make a tablecloth from a soft dense material with a bright pattern, but it can also be one-color. A fringe is sewn to the hanging sides of the tablecloth. The table is the only relatively large item on the stage, so make it as detailed as possible and it will beautify your performance. It’s good if you make a second table of the same kind, but without a sideboard, which will make your work much easier. In this case, the cover is simply made from one square (40x40 cm) piece of eight-millimeter plywood. Such a table, in addition to the first, is very necessary. Author: Bedarev G.K.
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