Production of seals, stamps and small printed circuit boards. Scheme, description

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ENCYCLOPEDIA OF RADIO ELECTRONICS AND ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING
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Production of seals, stamps and small printed circuit boards. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering

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Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Ham Radio Technologies

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Many, including myself, have published methods for making this goodness with a laser printer. When I started making printed coils, the existing error ceased to satisfy me and I had to think. Judge for yourself: the toner sticks to the board not when it is melted, but when it cools down, that is, you need to ensure that the paper is pressed tightly during cooling.

The proposed method is exactly suitable for small boards and round seals. From the moment of discovery to the last blanks, I had photographic quality and space reliability in 40 minutes.

1.1. We turn on the 1st burner for three, the 2nd for one and put the pan on the 1st (I took a pan with a flat bottom).
1.2. We print on smooth magazine paper.
1.3. We tear out (by pressing on it with a heel, scratching on the reverse side of the hardboard) the printed side.
1.4. we are looking for a massive flat metal object like the "bottom of a metal mug" (I took something like a mug and poured water into it).
2. We fix the paper on the surface, but cunningly (I just wrapped the paper to the board with foil from old conders without any glue (1.5 turns))
3. We put the bundle obtained in 2 into 1.1 with a piece of paper up and from time to time massage it 1.4, pressing down the toner.
4. It is worth taking it out immediately when you feel burnt phenol formaldehyde. (And forget technologies like "crepe de chine ironing temperature, which some wise ladies know" - my getinaks burned to black, the bottom foil peeled off, but the top one turned out to be 100% pattern).
5. We quickly put the matrix taken out with tweezers on a flat board and make a couple of strong but calm movements with a cold iron from above.
6. Pour 100% sulfuric acid into a Petri dish (glass with a flat bottom - I don’t know what else to take, but I’ll say that concentrated sulfuric acid does not eat aluminum and steel) and heat it on the 2nd burner to so many degrees that you still have a bowl in your hands you can take. We throw a matrix there. The paper is charred. If there is no patience, take it out, rinse in a jet, wipe off the charred part with your fingers (if 1-5 are done correctly, the toner can no longer be torn off even with strong fingers), dry in 1.1, at the beginning of 6.
7. weed.
8. Wash (I took toluene).

Notes

1. Keep plenty of soda on hand (against acid) and work in overalls (acid is 100% sulfuric).

2. Read everything that is written about it earlier.

3. I now make all fees and "payments" green.

Everyone knows that more or less concentrated nitric acid corrodes copper with a rapid release of NO2, so that the varnish, and even more so the toner, is torn off by this gas. But now I have found that cold (nitrogen taken out in the cold on the balcony, eats copper slowly and without gases. It seems that it is cooler than ferric chloride, cheaper and more visible (at first the solution is transparent - then light green). The board etched like this is green.

Publication: N. Bolshakov, rf.atnn.ru

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