Vehicle vibration isolation

Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Audio equipment

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Niva is a noisy car, isn't it? Rhetorical question...

Immediately, anticipating objections and indignation, I will say - this is not about NOISE, but about VIBRO isolation. What is the difference? The purpose of soundproofing is to reduce the level of existing noise in the car. These are engine noises, and wheels, boxes, handouts, squeaks of interior parts, etc. Wind noise, finally. External noise penetrating into the cabin. In a "decent" car from the assembly line, the noise reduction reserve is negligible. It is not for nothing that manufacturers are investing billions in the development of new models, and then even more billions in reducing the cost of mass production. As a result, the noise signatures of the body, interior and all important components are matched to each other, and it is impossible to really reduce the noise level without replacing almost all components in the car.

It is somewhat easier with products of the domestic auto industry. Something (squeaky plastic skins) can be cured with significant results by simply doing something that was not done at the factory. The main reserves for reducing noise are, after all, in the standard setting of the engine mode (ignition, valves, belts, pump), tire selection, regular replacement of ball joints, rods, etc.

Then why bother? The hassle arises precisely because of the production of a decent sound in the car. First, it is necessary to suppress the vibrations of the body metal (primarily doors) caused by internal "exciters". This, by and large, is VIBRO isolation. Not a single manufacturer does acoustic fine-tuning for this very purpose, so a tangible result is achieved on any platform (at least 2106, at least A6). Secondly, it is necessary to clean up the inevitable resonances of the interior itself (here the result is inversely proportional to the quality of the design study).

You should not deceive yourself with the fact that "I'm not a boom-boom, so that the tower is torn down." The need for acoustic fine-tuning arises precisely during the transition to high-quality reproduction, when boom-boom is already disgusting, but you want quiet, but good music. This is where all the flaws in the interior acoustics come out. Whether to treat them or leave everything as it is - everyone decides in their own way ...

Prepare

So, the interior was completely disassembled (except for the roof and the stove radiator), and about 40 kg of native VAZ mineral wool was thrown away. Glorious masters at the Vase threw this cotton wool directly on the raw paint (yellow in the photo), I had to tear it off.

By the way, on a car with a mileage of 300 km, which stood in the garage for a month, it was already wet! Let me soundproof the roof by those who will install the hatch (ps before that, hands still haven’t reached it - and here it’s winter again). I'm not chasing SPL, if so - let them drown out the noise of the wind, and okay.

Dismantling the interior is generally a simple matter. Tricky places - fastening the suction cable (it is easier to remove it from the carburetor than from the torpedo) and the right inner torpedo fastening nut (the one behind the glove box - you need a cardan). Found that the drain tube of the gas tank is bitten between the tank and the body. I noticed in time, she wouldn’t have lasted so long. Everything else seems to be in order. I found a lot of "regular" through holes, especially in the wings (under the seat belt bolts. The previous 21213 did not have them). For this reason, I recommend doing soundproofing with the fender liner removed (or not yet installed), and then properly anticorrosive the holes from the outside.

Having dismantled the interior, you need to sketch (or even better, take a video, I highly recommend it) the location of all the necessary holes - you will glue it, and then how to look for it? You can't pierce two layers of dynamate with an awl. Well, do not drill again then! We take a large piece of paper, and draw from nature 1: 1. And a camcorder wouldn't hurt. Then you can figure out the routes for wiring. In the area of ​​​​the heater tap (five centimeters to the right and below it) there is a through hole (rubber plug), through which you can and should pull the power wire (since the battery is on the right, then we pull on the starboard side). 3-4 cables of 8 gauge or 1 gauge 4 or 2 will pass (it’s easy without a corrugation, and if in a corrugation, then the plug must be removed and “bored” with a knife. However, keep in mind that this plug is right under the ignition coil, it can give pickups - not enough Everything is quiet with me.

Materials

Materials used (Didn't I say that soundproofing can't be enough?) -

• The so-called "unmarked dynamate" (hereinafter referred to as "NMD", so no offense) - foil. Perfectly glued to any shape (even without a gun). Went 7 sq.m. Now there is a good alternative - Standardplastovsky "visomat" (400 rubles per square, the dealer is the "Sibro" service in Maryina Roshcha).
• Same without foil. It sticks badly. On complex vertical planes - do not even try. Went 8 sq.m. on the body and 2 sq.m. on a torpedo, lining, etc.
• Foil polyethylene foam 5 mm (FPPE, aka penofol, sold in rolls 50-80 cm wide). Cool thermal insulation (I threw out my own). Went about 6 sq.m.
• Polyethylene foam 2 and 8 mm thick. I didn't count the expense.
• Glue 3M Display Mount in a bottle - 3 bottles went. This is for gluing PPE. Very convenient and for the money ($5 bottle) is not much more expensive than the Moment.
• Macroflex is one thing.
• Rubber anticorrosive in a cylinder - one piece. Dries in a day, unlike domestic cans.

All this cost about USD 350, however, I took NMD at the dealer price (and the dealer can easily wind up +300% for you, bargain up to +200% and smile broadly).

Tool

Of course, you can screw the screws with a hammer in a Neanderthal way, but we choose easy solutions and do it right. What is desirable to have from the tool -

• Cordless drill screwdriver. An absolutely essential item! Reduces the time of dismantling the cabin at times, if not dozens of times. Do not save on stings, cheap ones do not last long.
• Drills from 2 to 8 millimeters
• If necessary - a pyramid cutter ("antenna drill") for boring large holes (8-30 mm). A cordless drill for such drilling will not be enough, you need a powerful corded drill.
• A knife for cutting materials (for NMD you need a fairly massive one) and be sure to have a sheet of plywood on which to cut.
• Good tailor's scissors
• Nippers, ideally with a cutter for stripping the wire.
• For the power cable - special cable cutters (with which fingers are shortened in post-perestroika films).
• Video or photo camera for debriefing - see above.
• A bunch of containers for every little thing.

Pasting (and a little bit of wiring)

The most self-satisfying process in car audio. The result is visible and audible instantly. This is not for you to glue a fiberglass subwoofer (my first experience took 5 weeks, who is more?).

I started with the hood and what is under it (mudguards, interior bulkhead). He took off the tanks with antifreeze and washer, spare tire, air filter, side turn signals and other trifles. And forward (foil NMD). When the carburetor was opened, of course, I did not use a hair dryer and I do not advise you.

Get into the salon. I laid the gas tank (not the cover sheet, but the tank itself) on top with a sheet of FPPE, the flanges on which the cover is placed on top were glued with NMD strips. Anticorrosive was sprayed into the gaps between the tank and the barrels, and two macroflex plaques were poured into the same place, just enough to fix the tank to the barrel. Screwed the lid (iron sheet) into place. Everything, you can use a hairdryer.

The priorities in sizing are clear - the noise comes approximately equally from the bulkhead, floor, front fenders and tunnel. The second stage - doors, rear sidewalls, floor under and behind the rear seat. The third - facings, etc. rubbish. I have already spoken about the roof.

I glued the bulkhead of the engine compartment and the checkpoint tunnel with metallized NMD in 2 layers, the floor in 1 layer. I opened the layer above the holes (then you can’t find them). Then on the floor, tunnel, tank lid, rear seat step and rear fenders - another layer of conventional NMD. It is better to glue complex and hard-to-reach forms in strips of 10 cm wide, a large sheet is not suitable. Do not be too lazy to remove the stove fan box (held by four clips), behind it is a hotbed of noise.

I pasted 5 mm foil PPE on the floor, tunnel and bulkhead (the main line of thermal insulation. I laid a power cable (in a plastic corrugation on the left threshold), acoustic wires (on the floor under the passenger seat) and RCA wires (on the floor under the driver's seat). For laying the power cable under the outer seat bracket must be drilled out with a pyramid cutter from the front end.

By the way, about the choice of power cable. The only thing that "karaudio" cable differs from industrial bourgeois wire - flexibility. And the veins are thinner, and the insulation is softer. Strength and heat resistance are the same. So I saved on the cable by putting a Pirelli 36 sq. mm for free (who doesn’t know, I work in a modest construction company, and 36 sq. mm is in the middle between AWG4 and AWG2).

I glued the doors from the inside with metallized NMD (I put the speakers in a different place), also the rear sidewalls (external and internal), the back door. Which of the Nivovods is interested - this is how the door of the non-forest Niva looks like (before gluing). Pay attention to the hole in the upper front corner, which is useful when installing acoustics according to Dimus. The lower roller of the power window is mounted on a bracket in the center of the door, there are no cables in the front lower corner, you can safely cut it out if necessary. However, in general, the inner door hardware is weak, which was proven after Klaus installed the windows.

Down the cavity of the doors and inside the cavity above the rear wing, I filled in anticorrosive plus macroflex, as mentioned above, leaving the drainage holes free (the same macroflex fixed the power wire in the cavity of the left rear sidewall). With this right barrel, due to the considerable number of gas pipes, it must be treated with respect!

A very explosive place in the Niva is a steel profile that holds the lining of doors and sidewalls on top. Stuck on snot. Inserted NMD strips between it and the body.

So, what are the cables doing on the floor? Well, I laid the acoustic cables with a flat cable (2 * 2.5 sq. mm with a thickness of about 1.5 mm), and the power cable (36 sq. mm, and even in the corrugation) and RCA stick out. I took an 8-mm sheet of PPE, cut out slots in it over the wire route, and glued it. Now they don't stick out. Then I put another sheet of 5 mm FPPE on top - everything is not visible. Here is the whole process. By the way, numerous foil layers (mostly grounded) - probably good as a screen.

Here is the finished landscape. Then I glued the plastic facings from the inside - with the remnants of NMD (strips, no need for a solid one) and thin PPE (I didn’t regret it). The same or approximately the same - the back of the rear seat, torpedo, beard, air ducts, fan housing.

An ordinary household carpet (aka carpet) was laid on the floor. How long it will live, I don't know. It's not a problem to replace.

That's all? oh yeah, gotta get it all! And native kickpanels do not climb into place, there (and not only there) the thickness of the new insulation is somewhere thicker, and somewhere thinner than the native one. How I re-glued them is a separate story. A problematic place during assembly is to put the fuse boxes in place (a position not described in the Kama Sutra). Those with a tendency to sciatica are better not to do this themselves. KB VAZ - mast give.

Publication: klausmobile.narod.ru

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