Stop electric meter. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering

Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Electric meters

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This article discusses the old ways of cheating electricity meters: stopping them, rewinding them, restarting the electricity meter, etc.

1. How does it work?

1.1 A typical all-Russian meter has four terminals: 1 - 2 - 3 - 4. A current winding is connected between terminals 1 - 2, which has low resistance and consists of several turns of thick copper wire. Terminals 3 - 4 are internally shorted to each other. Between cl. 1 and 3-4 the voltage winding is on. The windings feed the magnetic circuits, the field of which drives the disk of the measuring mechanism. Power is accounted for by multiplying the instantaneous values ​​of current and voltage acting on the windings. In this case, the instantaneous mutual direction of the flow in the windings is also important. If in one of the windings it is changed to the opposite, then the direction of rotation of the disk will also change.

Our task is to stop the current in the current winding or change its direction to the opposite. How can this be achieved?

You can stop the passage of current using a bypass, and change the direction by letting countercurrent flow into the current winding. Such a bypass can be created by using ground and applying "zero" instead of "phase" to the current winding.

Grounding can be used from water pipes or central heating batteries, and it is best if you have electrical wiring with a third ground wire. In case we do not want the meter disk to rotate, we feed in the outlet from the "phase", which in the meter now passes through pins 3-4 (jumper), and the "ground", which generally goes past the meter. If we want to make the meter spin back, we feed all the loads from the sockets, but we supply a current to one socket between "zero" and "ground" that is greater than that consumed by the loads, and in the opposite direction (in antiphase). To do this, we use an autotransformer.

2. Stop the counter

2.1. In the front door on the shield, find the device that matches your device:

other (clause 2.7.)

2.2. Find a device that turns off your apartment. If this is difficult, turn on the tape recorder in the apartment and turn off the devices one by one. Silence is a sign that you have found your device.

2.2.1. In the same way, find your machines, usually 2 pieces (or 3 if the house has electric stoves).

2.3. Turn off your device. Use the phase indicator to find the supply side. Open the second type of device for this. Carefully! Its parts easily fall out under the action of a spring if the axis of the lever is displaced. The first device has the danger of a short circuit between the terminal and the top iron cover. Hold the phase indicator probe at an angle.

2.4. The wires from the opposite supply side, which are currently de-energized (check!) are interchanged.

2.5. There is a zero block next to or above your machines. The wires going to your apartment (noodles) are connected at one end to your machines, and at the other to this block. It has a jumper, and a wire comes up to it from below. The machines also have a jumper and a wire. Swap these wires. To do this, you will need pliers, wire cutters, a sharp knife and round nose pliers to make a ring at the end of the wire. The ring must be tightened along the diameter of the screw in a clockwise direction (so that when the screw is tightened, it tends to tighten, and not unclench).

2.6. Go to 2.9.

2.7. Do you have other types of devices? You will have to open the terminal cover of the meter. Fortunately, they are almost never sealed, and no one pays attention to this (unlike the case of the meter itself), and you can break the seal without a doubt. Well, if you want to leave it, then see how to do it (clause 2.10.).

2.8. Unscrew the screws of the meter terminals until the wires are free (do not unscrew any more, the screws may fall out). Switch wires 1 and 3, and 4 and 2. That is, the new order of wires: 3 - 4 - 1 - 2. Close the cover.

2.9. Everyone, turn it on. By connecting now the zero in the outlet to the ground in it or to the battery, you will cool down your counter. To do this, you can make a special plug with a jumper between zero and ground or a wire with an alligator clip to connect to the battery. At the same time, take all measures so as not to plug the plug in the opposite direction - mark or better, break off one pin, and plug the phase hole in the socket. A technological socket (available in the kitchens of houses built since 1979, with a triangular arrangement of flat pins) is much more convenient, since it initially prevents incorrect switching on.

Additional Information

2.10. The seal installed on the cover is made of polyethylene, has a fragile structure and can be easily removed / installed repeatedly and without visible signs of this. Note the order in which the wire passes through the screw, eyelet, and seal. Unwind the twisted ends of the wire and pull off the seal with a strong jerk with your hands. Use a needle to pierce the channels for passing the wire. After finishing work and installing the cover, pass the lock through the screw and eyelet and insert it into the seal. On the opposite side, twist the wire. Slightly flatten the filling with pliers, placing smooth pieces of metal under the sponges - this will save the impression. Ready.

3. Run it back

Having done what was described in paragraph 2.1, we are ready to put the meter back and bill the energy supplier.

You will need a transformer with a power of 150 ... 200 watts with a voltage on the secondary winding of 3 ... 15 volts, adjustable in steps or smoothly at a current of up to 10A. Ideal for this is the usual LATR, which is even in the school physics room in any laboratory. Of the ready-made ones, a tr-r from an old tube TV or radio receiver with two powerful windings of 6.3 Volts each, and a winding of 1 Volt can come up. Connecting them this way and that, we get a set of different voltages. It is possible to wind a home-made one on the basis of such a transformer, having lowered all the extra anode windings, and wind the power ones with a tap every 1 Volt and connect it to the switch.

The transformer is connected to the outlet according to the following scheme:

By adjusting the output voltage, we set the current in the circuit, which is greater than the consumption of the apartment. Hop! And the counter is spinning backwards. An approximately equal current stops him, and a shortage allows him to crawl quietly. In the case of the euro or technological socket, the device is simply stuck into it. It can be arranged as a separate box with a cord and plug, or even built into an energy-hungry device such as an electric stove or fireplace, and even combine its power controls with a winding switch.

We continue to mock the counter

Above terminal 1, if you open the terminal cover, you can see the output of the voltage winding, which contacts the terminal through a screw located above the clamps.

If the screw is loosened before the contact stops, the counter will stop.

This happens because the meter, having lost voltage, will multiply the flowing current by zero, resulting in a power of 0 kW / h.

In general, to start the counter back (not secretly, as described above, but insolently), it is enough to swap the wires of terminals 1-2.

Publication: cxem.net

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