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ENCYCLOPEDIA OF RADIO ELECTRONICS AND ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING
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Possible malfunctions of the electrical wiring, the procedure for their elimination and prevention. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering

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Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Electric installation work

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All electrical faults can be divided into three groups:

- directly in the conductors themselves;

- in electrical installation details;

- in the electric meter.

As for malfunctions in the operation of the electric meter, only professional electricians can install and repair this device. In addition, the mechanisms of the counters are protected from outside interference by sealed covers. In the event of a power meter failure, the only thing you need to know is the phone number or address of the power supply organization, which, as a rule, is engaged in the repair, testing and installation of electricity metering devices.

Malfunctions of the line of conductors of the electrical circuit itself can be caused by their breakage or short circuit (in this case, the fuses work). You can determine the location of the broken conductors during open wiring either visually or by sequential dialing of individual sections of the wiring. If the wiring is hidden, but there is a diagram of it indicating the junction boxes, then serial dialing is also possible. In the event that the wiring is hidden, but there is no circuit, you can use one of the devices discussed in previous chapters.

To reduce the length of the search, the fact that the electrical installation parts to the place of the break should work properly if these parts and devices are in working condition will help.

If the fuse (circuit breaker) has blown, a short circuit has occurred. To make sure that it was a short circuit in the wiring, and not in any electrical appliance, it is necessary to disconnect all electrical appliances from the mains, replace the fuse (or fuse) or re-enable the circuit breaker. If the protective devices work again, then a short circuit has occurred precisely in the wiring.

Repair of electrical wiring

In the event of a short circuit, when the insulation between the phase and neutral wires is broken, the repair consists in restoring the insulating layer, this can be done using an insulating tape.

Restoring the electrical wiring if there is a break in the conductors is somewhat more difficult. Most often, a break in conductors occurs in places where the wire has been subjected to repeated bending: in places where wires approach poorly fixed sockets and switches; at the point where the wire exits the ceiling channel, after repeated wiping of dust, changing lamps and other actions that caused the chandelier to swing, etc.

It is for such cases that when cutting wires for laying wiring, a margin is recommended, which will allow, after a wire break at the end, to re-stripping the insulation once or twice and reinforce the wires in the terminals again. If, as a result of a break, the wire does not reach the terminal clamp (the break did not occur at the end of the conductor or a similar repair operation is not performed for the first time), and also if the break occurred in a place where the supply of wire was not provided (for example, the wire was broken with a nail when hanging a bookshelf), then the wire must be extended with a piece of another wire. Copper build-up is usually attached by soldering, aluminum - using a steel tube with screw clamps at the ends and an anti-corrosion coating. Having restored the broken wire, an insulating bandage should be applied.

It is necessary to follow one simple rule for the operation of electrical wiring: wire breaks in hidden wiring, as a rule, occur due to too much load on the wires, when current flows through them for which they are not designed, and the wires simply burn out. Therefore, it is very important not to overload the electrical line. If any device is connected to the network and protective devices have tripped, it means that this is due to excessive load: operating the wiring in this mode will certainly lead to its breakage.

Now about the problems in electrical installation parts. In circuit breakers, malfunctions most often occur due to the voltaic arc that occurs when the contacts open or the contact plate vibrates after the contact hits the contact. The voltaic arc contributes to the riveting of contacts, abrasion and melting of the parts of the switch. Therefore, when purchasing switches, preference should be given to those in the design of which a quick separation of contacts is provided for a distance that does not support the burning of a voltaic arc. During prolonged use of any household appliance, the switch may emit a characteristic crackle that is easy to hear, and if the appliance is a table lamp, it starts flashing. This is a sure sign that the switch of the device is faulty: crackling is caused by constant sparking between the contacts due to their unreliable fit to each other when on. The cause of this malfunction is the weakening of the toggle spring, oxidation or contamination of the contacts. More often than others, such a nuisance happens with cam-type switch mechanisms.

There are similar faults in sockets. In addition, a fairly common acquired defect of a plug socket is the weakening of its contact with the plug: the pins of the plug are weakly held by the socket sockets until the contact is completely opened.

The only fuse problem that you can repair yourself is a failed fuse link or disposable fuse.

More often than other electrical installation elements, threaded cartridges for incandescent lamps fail, because their operation is associated with significant heating of the contacts, which leads to their weakening.

Typically, the repair of electrical installation devices is not particularly difficult. But it is worth remembering one very important rule: when starting any repair work - searching for and inspecting damage, replacing failed parts, etc., first of all, you need to de-energize the network, that is, unscrew the plugs (fuses) of the meter, turn off circuit breakers or a knife switch. There are no fundamental differences from each other in the repair of switches and sockets. First of all, it is necessary to check the strength of the contact connections (for this it is necessary to remove the body of the part) and, if the cause of the malfunction is in them, open the contact of the terminals with the wires and reconnect. If the cause of the problem lies in the mechanism itself, it should be replaced, for which the terminals of the mechanism are released from the ends of the wires (their connection is opened) and the screws that secure the mechanism in the box are unscrewed, after which the failed mechanism is replaced with a new one. Before installing a new switch or socket mechanism or repairing loose contact, check the condition of the wire ends. Very often, the veins of the wires turn out to be torn, the insulation is dried up, so it is necessary to strip the ends of the wires again and only then connect them to the terminals of the mechanism.

Poor contact between socket sockets and plug pins can be easily eliminated by replacing the existing plug pins with larger diameter pins or by narrowing the contact holes of the sockets.

Speaking of repairing a plug socket, one cannot ignore the problems that can occur in the second part of the plug connection - the plug. And troubles in the form of a broken wire in the plug happen much more often as a result of the high mobility of this element. If such a malfunction occurs, then you need to unscrew the clamping screw in the plug, remove the cover, unscrew the clamp screws and remove the ends of the wire strands. Then cut the wire to the point of breakage, strip the ends of its cores and make loops. The loops are put on the clamp screws, the screws are tightened. Complete the repair by replacing the fork cover. In order to avoid a short circuit, it is necessary to ensure that the insulation of the individual conductors of the wire reaches the terminal itself.

Forks of a non-separable design cannot be repaired, they are simply replaced with new ones. All that you can do on your own to return the fuse to working capacity is to replace the disposable fuse with a new one or a used fuse-link with a new one (necessarily factory-made). Among home electricians, there are a lot of "masters" who, in the event of a blown fuse, without thinking twice, wind a wire around the cork, which can lead, at best, to the failure of all electrical wiring, and at worst - to a fire. Therefore, it is advisable to always have 6 or 10 A plugs in stock. It is strictly forbidden to independently perform other repair operations or adjust protection devices of all types.

However, fuses can be not only network (installed on a switchboard or electric meter), but also local. So, in some modern socket designs, fuses are installed in the form of a fusible insert sandwiched between the contacts under the cover. If this fuse trips, the fuse must be replaced, for which it is first necessary to unscrew the plugs on the apartment switchboard. In most devices of radio-electronic household equipment - radios, tape recorders, televisions - there are fuses in the form of thin wires enclosed in glass tubes; they are called Wose fuses and protect a particular device from overloads in the network. The failed fuse is replaced with a new one, however, it is necessary that the current indicated in the marking of the new fuse (0,5, 1, 2 A, etc.) correspond to the real current passing through the circuit.

It is also best to replace a failed cartridge with a new one. To do this, the cartridge is disassembled right on the spot: the connections of the cartridge with the wires are opened, the locking screw inside the body (in the bottom thread) is loosened or the lock nut is unscrewed from the threaded tube, after which the cartridge is removed from the lamp tube. Then the wires

they are passed into the hole in the cover of the new cartridge, the ends of the wires are sealed and insulated with insulating tape, after which they are connected to the mechanism of the new cartridge and the cartridge itself is assembled.

Certainly, minor repairs of electrical installation devices and parts anyone can do it. And the main thing here is not knowledge of electrical engineering, but following the rules for the production of repair work, instructions for devices and useful advice from professional electricians. Here are some of them:

- cracked plastic parts of switches, sockets or plugs should not be glued, tied with wire or insulating tape; they must be replaced with new ones;

- when repairing a switch or socket, you need to unscrew the external screws of the device, release the internal fasteners and remove the switch or socket mechanism from the socket in the wall - this will make it easier to loosen the screws securing the wires;

- the ring at the end of the wire intended for connection to the screw terminal of the switch or socket should be turned in the direction of screwing - in this case, the ring will not unwind during the connection;

- when installing a new switch or socket, first screw the wires on the inside of the mechanism to failure, then put it into the socket and fix it with external screws;

- when disassembling a plug in a detachable plastic case into its component parts, it is necessary to hold it above the table - then you will not have to look for a nut or bolt that has fallen out on the floor in the most inaccessible places.

Author: Korshevr N.G.

See other articles Section Electric installation work.

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