ENCYCLOPEDIA OF RADIO ELECTRONICS AND ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING Homemade amplifier on the TDA7294 chip (part 3). Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Transistor power amplifiers Part III This last part will tell you what I came up with while driving with the results of part two. The brain of the advanced power supply is still on the SG 3525A. This microcircuit is smarter than its grandmother, no offense to the old woman will be said. SG 3524A has a built-in "slow start" (the time is selected by the capacitance), power down shutdown, etc. The SG 3525A operates at 70 kHz and outputs 35 kHz in turn. "Brains" of the power supply "Muscles" of the power supply The field effect transistor control circuit is made on two transistors (BD 140, BD 139), T8-T11, they beautifully open and close the field effect transistor. C20 and R49 (three Rs of 150 ohms in parallel) will remove unnecessary surges, and almost rectangular pulses will fall on the transformer. The transformer was made on two rings (40 x 24 x 11 - 6000 NM), the primary winding contains 3 turns (3 - 4 mm), I took a double acoustic wire (which is pulled in the car from the amp to the speakers), the secondary winding contains 14 turns ( 4 wires 1 mm each), which is wound first. I tighten the two rings very tightly with electrical tape and wind 4 slightly twisted wires evenly around the circumference of the ring. The ends on one side are ringed on the other side, two wires are selected on one side and on the other, which are not ringed and connected together. In each arm of the reinforced version of the power supply, I put five field-effect transistors IRFZ44 (T12-T21). You can replace them with BUZ11, but they are weaker. I made the bridge on D1-D4 BYW 29/200 diodes, but I also tried it on KD2997A, which, in my opinion, is even better - they do not need radiators. The PWM is made with decoupling on the TLP504A optocoupler, with such a circuit there is less interference on the TDA 7294. I privatized this circuit either from a French or from an English magazine in the Polish version. The original optocoupler ILD55, but I did not get such a thing. "Cerebellum", in the sense - SHI modulator Inductors from the interference of the transformer Tr1, Dr1 and Dr2 wound on 2000NM, with a diameter of 37 mm, 20 - 25 turns (2 mm). Dr3 wound on an even smaller diameter (30 turns 1 mm) - this choke is mainly from interference from the fan that cools the TDA 7294 heatsink, and it should be big and cold, like an iceberg in the ocean. By technology, if anyone is not scared enough yet. First of all, they assemble the generator on the SG 3525A, always on the socket, you never know, then it will be easier to live. We connect the oscilloscope to the 11th and 14th legs and, making sure that the SG 3525A works and produces rectangular pulses, on the 4th leg we measure F with a frequency meter, on the 11th and 14th legs - too (there is F / 2). Now you can write in the diary that the SG 3525A is working. We solder T8 - T11, and on R33-R34, R35-R36 we watch with an oscilloscope how the control circuit works - of course, there are rectangular pulses at the outputs R33-R34, R35-R36. Then we solder T12-T21 (preferably also on a pretty radiator - you can't spoil the porridge with oil), solder Tr1. Then we cross ourselves, solder the fuse thinner and turn it on, if the ammeter did not bend the arrow on the right stop, the fuse did not emit, blushing, the last breath and on the secondary winding Tr1 beautiful slightly trapezoidal pulses, then you can shake your own hand. Having charged, C18,18` calm down, and the ammeter needle (for me - at 30 A) returns to the zero position in the x.x mode. (for adjustment, first solder 100 microfarads - so that the ammeter needle does not scare when turned on). Check now if nothing is heating up, the SG 3525A is a little warm, everything else is cold. I do not advise you to touch the secondary winding - there, without a PWM circuit, it can knock, or hit, or even that, as you like. We solder the diode bridge and the PWM circuit on the TLP504A, into the load we solder a 2 W resistor 30 kΩ after C22, C27 into each arm (in the negative arm between "-" and ground, in the other, positive - between "+" and ground). We set +35 V by adjusting R9, R10, P1. Well, it seems that's all, if I didn't mess up anything in the description, then everything seems to work like that. Or maybe not, it's up to you. It works for me, here is a photo.
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