Homemade wind turbine. Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering

Encyclopedia of radio electronics and electrical engineering / Alternative energy sources

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I want to offer readers of the magazine an interesting and useful device in my opinion - a portable wind farm. In the summer, my family and I often relax on the shores of the Sea of ​​Azov. Everyone understands that rest becomes much more comfortable if there is a source of electricity. After the manufacture of the windmill, there was no need to save the on-board network of the Zaporozhets car, it became possible to constantly use the radio, lighting, Sapphire-401 TV, and during even a slight wind - a car refrigerator.

I have made several versions of wind farms. The one offered now is the simplest and most accessible.

As a generator, the main unit of any power plant, a DC electric motor (U=48 V, 1=15 A, n=1200 rpm) is used. The rotor rotates at a frequency of less than 500 rpm, and as the wind intensifies, the speed does not increase, but the charge current increases. A chain sprocket (Z = 10) from a D-6 bicycle engine is installed on the generator shaft. The driven sprocket (Z=48) and the entire bottom bracket assembly are taken from an adult bike. The frame had to be sawn and shaped, and then welded. The generator is attached to the frame with M8 bolts.

The roller chain with a pitch of 1 2,7 mm must be boiled for several minutes in engine oil before installation, and then wiped with a rag. It is better to use a chain from a motorcycle: its service life is much longer.

Fig.1. (click to enlarge)

I made a new, longer carriage shaft. When assembling the carriage assembly, it is necessary to lubricate the bearings with Litol-24 or TsIATIM grease. Then the M16 nut is screwed onto the shaft until it stops, the flange is put on (Fig. 3) and clamped with another nut. A disk is attached to the flange with eight Mb bolts (Fig. 4) in such a way that the protrusion of the flange 0 40 mm enters the disk hole. The flange is made as follows: a disk is machined from steel on a lathe (Fig. 3, pos. 1), then the head of the 24 socket wrench is cut off from the side of the holder up to 20 mm in height, both of these parts are aligned with each other coaxially and welded. In this case, if only two blades will be used, the disk and flange can be replaced with a steel plate (Fig. 1, pos. 3).

The blades are made of duralumin 2 mm thick. After manufacturing, they must be given an arcuate shape. To do this, the blade must be placed on something round (for example, a pipe with a diameter of 800 mm and a length of at least 800 mm) and bent along the line shown in the drawing. Then the blade is attached with six screws to a wooden spoke, which is made from a planed wooden block 36x55x500 mm. The spokes, in turn (using two M8 bolts each), are attached to the disk or plate.

Fig.5. (click to enlarge)

To use a light wind, 5-8 m / s, I made six identical blades. In strong winds, I advise you to use only two. But even with a small wind with two blades, the windmill gives a current of 4-6 A at a voltage of 14 V. In principle, the length of the blades can be reduced to 80 cm.

A pin (a piece of pipe 120-150 mm long) is welded to the bottom of the frame, which enters the mast pipe with a small gap. Before installation, it must be lubricated and a brass washer laid, on which the entire assembly will easily rotate in a horizontal plane and, with the help of a removable stabilizer, stand against the wind.

The mast with a length of 3-3,5 m is made of a water pipe Ø 0 mm (not less). A support platform (S 34-2 dm²) is welded to the lower part of the mast, from the end of the pipe, to which, in turn, a pin 3 mm long and 150 0-12 mm is welded. When installing the mast, the pin is simply stuck into the ground. At a distance of 15 m from the upper end of the pipe-mast, along its circumference, I welded four M1O nuts for attaching guy wires. It is better to make the mast from two parts - for ease of transportation on the trunk of a car. In stationary conditions, it can be made from another material, and longer. Installation of the wind system is well in the article "Wind Daisy" ("MK", ​​1, N 1988).

A few words about the remote control and battery charging. It includes an ammeter and a DC voltmeter of any type, but small sizes are better. An ammeter for a maximum current of 20-30 A, a voltmeter for 15-30 V (assuming that the car's on-board network is 12 V). Decoupling diode - any type for a current of 20 A. As a rheostat, you can use a wire resistance type PPB-50G for 5-10 0m, 50 W with refinement: several turns of wire must be removed from the left edge so that the circuit breaks in the working position. You can use any other resistor that can withstand a current of 20 A for a few seconds. And this is why this is necessary: ​​if the battery is fully charged and the voltage on it has reached 14-14,5 V, then we short-circuit the generator with a resistor for three seconds and thereby stop it, while the current is 3-4 times less than the working one. You can then tie one of the blades to the mast. It is impossible to short-circuit the generator sharply, as the mechanism may break. Manually, even with an average wind, it is very dangerous to stop by the blade. It is also impossible to reduce the charge current with this resistor, since it will burn out in a few tens of seconds. The charge current can be reduced by adding the number of lamps plugged into the socket. Current-carrying wire - any soft cable (preferably rubberized) with a cross section of 3-4 mm², which is passed inside the mast pipe.

The operation of wind power plants for 10 days, even with two blades, showed that this energy is enough: after all, the wind is on the sea almost every day.

Author: V. Kuklin, Zaporozhye

Comment: In my opinion, the control electronics can really be made more perfect. The proposed wiring diagram clearly needs to be improved. Instead of one diode - a diode bridge. You can add a voltage regulator, any simple (emitter follower) or more complex and economical switching regulator, and the problem with recharging the battery will disappear by itself. Yes, and a stable voltage is more versatile in use. Well, some kind of voltage converter that would have access to 220 volts.

Various automobile and tractor generators are also excellent as an electric generator.

Excellent blades are made using model aircraft technology with twist (to maintain a constant pitch) - Spar and foam filler, everything is pasted over with fiberglass on epoxy. But this is already a complication, although the efficiency will increase by 20%.

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