Propane soldering. Drawing, description

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Propane soldering. home workshop

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The method of soldering metals with tin solders is one of the most common, but, unfortunately, the connection is not very strong. A more reliable seam is provided by the so-called "hard" solders - silver-copper or copper-zinc. Most often, when soldering with hard solders, a gasoline blowtorch is used. However, it must be handled skillfully: the lamp is unsafe in terms of fire, smokes at startup, and besides, the flame is difficult to adjust.

It is much more convenient to work with a propane-butane torch. Connected with a hose to a portable gas stove cylinder, it is an excellent heater. The invaluable advantages of such a burner are constant readiness for work, quick heating of parts to the melting temperature of the solder.

The appearance of the device is shown in Figure 1. For it, you will need copper or brass tubes with an outer diameter of 12,8 and 6 mm (wall thickness - 1 mm). The tip of the burner is machined "from stainless steel" or from any other heat-resistant steel and pressed onto the supply tube. Inside there is another central tube with a sleeve soldered to it with a nozzle - a hole Ø 1 mm.

In the cavity of the tip there is a grid - a steel disk with twelve holes Ø 1 mm and a central hole Ø 4 mm for the nozzle.

The regulating valve is an M4 threaded screw, the cylindrical head of which has an outer diameter of 12-15 mm. It will be more convenient to use it if shallow risks are carried on its outer (cylindrical) surface with a triangular needle file. Next, solder a tide to the supply tube with hard solder, in which a hole Ø 3,2 mm is drilled for the M4 thread, passing through the supply and supply pipes. When cutting threads, keep in mind that you should not go deep into the supply tube with a tap, otherwise you will ensure that the hole in it is completely covered with the M4 screw wrapped.

The valve works as follows: when it is rotated counterclockwise, the flow of the combustible mixture bifurcates, and part of it enters the annular gap between the supply and central tubes; then it passes through the grid of the burner tip, forming a wide flame.

The assembly of the burner is simple - all the parts included in it are connected, as shown in the figures, and the joints are soldered with tin. The handle is two birch bars, interconnected with epoxy glue and processed together.

To pressurize the burner, you will need a rubber pump - these are used to fill with air, inflatable boats, a receiver - it can be made from a volleyball or basketball ball chamber, and one and a half meters of rubber tube - you can buy it at almost any pharmacy. In addition, solder two tees from copper tubes with an external Ø 8 mm - they are needed to connect the pump, receiver, burner and gas cylinder. To the latter, it is necessary to purchase a regular valve, with which the gas supply is regulated. The air supply is changed using a simple medical clamp.

propane soldering
Rice. 1. The main dimensions of the propane burner elements: 1 - tip, 2 - supply tube, 3 - control valve, 4 - handle, 5 - supply tube

propane soldering
Rice. 2. Burner tip: 1 - tip, 2 - feed tube, 3 - center tube, 4 - nozzle, 5 - mesh

propane soldering
Rice. 3. Control valve: 1 - supply pipe, 2 - supply pipe, 3 - handwheel, 4 - M4 screw, 5 - tide

propane soldering
Rice. 4. Propane burner and accessories: 1 - burner, 2 - rubber hose, 3 - tee, 4 - medical clamp, 5 - gas cylinder with standard valve, 6 - receiver, 7 - rubber pump

propane soldering
Rice. 5. Shapes of propane torch torches

The burner can operate in several modes. So, with a minimum supply of air and gas, a flame is obtained in the form of a thin needle - with its help it is convenient to solder small parts, such as jewelry. With an increase in the supply of air and gas, a buzzing torch of medium power is formed - while the control valve must pass part of the combustible mixture through the tip grid. Finally, with a further increase in air supply and a fully open control valve, the burner produces a powerful humming flame.

Keep in mind: a yellow flame indicates that the air supply is insufficient, a light blue fading flame is a sign of excessive air supply.

In conclusion, some practical tips for working with hard solders.

Flux preparation. Most often, borax is used as a flux. Preparing it for like is as follows. Pour the powder into a small glass bottle and add water to it - it should completely cover the crystals. Then heat the bottle in a water bath - part of the borax will go into solution, part will remain at the bottom. With gradual cooling, the borax will crystallize. Grind the crystals with a wooden folder and the flux is ready to use.

Solder preparation. One of the most common is silver-copper solder. Take a square of asbestos cardboard, soak it in water and use your fingers to mold it into a kind of cup that will serve as a crucible for melting. Put in it equal parts of silver and copper, as well as flux, and, placing the crucible on a brick, heat it with a powerful flame of a burner. Silver will melt first, then copper will dissolve in it. After making sure that this process is completed, cool the alloy. Solder is ready. It works well with steel, copper and brass parts.

Silver items are best soldered by fusing three parts silver and one part brass. Of course, steel, copper and brass can also be joined with this solder.

Пайка. Parts must be thoroughly cleaned of rust, oxides and dirt. Fix them with wire, coat the place of soldering with flux and place a piece of solder near the future seam. Put the parts on asbestos and brick and start heating with a powerful flame, the flux first dries, then swells and finally melts, spreading over the entire seam. After that, the solder also melts, forming a small ball. With further heating (up to red heat), the solder wets the parts and spreads over the entire seam. It remains to cool the junction and clean off the flux with a sandpaper or file.

Author: B.Sergeev

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