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WONDERS OF NATURE
Sikhote-Alin. Nature miracle
Even N. Przhevalsky and V. Arseniev, passing through the most remote and unexplored parts of the Middle and Southern Sikhote-Alin, drew attention to the territory that became the Sikhote-Alin Reserve in 1935. At one time it had an area of 1,8 million hectares and was the largest in the country. After the reorganization in 1951, only 99 thousand hectares of area were left behind the reserve. Now the territory of the reserve is 347 hectares. It is located in the Terneisky district of Primorsky Krai and stretches from north to south for almost 052 km and from west to east for 80 km. Its maritime boundary is almost 47 km long. The management of the reserve is located in the village of Terney, located about 50 km by sea from Vladivostok.
The reserve is represented by a complex system of mountain nodes and ridges (less than 5 percent of the territory is occupied by flat areas). In the southern part of the reserve, there is the Kurominsky Range, about 70 km long, with the highest height - Shishkin Mountain - 1734 m. The second transverse fold - the spur of the Sikhote-Alin - stretches for 52 km. The third fold, almost 50 km long, begins with the Terney Sopka. The fourth fold departs from the Sikhote-Alin to the west. There are many rivers and streams in the reserve, the so-called springs. Three main rivers flow into the sea - Serebryanka, Taiga and Dzhigitovka. The flow of the rivers is fast, the water in them is cold and clear. Mountain lakes are interconnected by underground watercourses. The largest of them is Tsarskoye (about 300 m long and 200 m wide). The climate of the reserve is characterized by lower temperatures in summer and winter than at the same latitudes to the west. In winter, strong winds blow in coastal areas. With a small amount of precipitation (the height of the snow cover is on average 12 cm), the winds free the river valleys and mountain peaks from snow. On the western slopes of the Sikhote-Alin, the snow cover reaches an average of 36 cm; in winter it is quiet and windless. During the summer, it rains heavily in coastal areas. On the western slopes, fenced off from the sea by a ridge, rains are much rarer, summers are hot, with frequent thunderstorms. About 99 percent of the territory is covered with forest. The vertical zonality is very clearly expressed here. In the zone of coniferous-deciduous forests of the reserve, belts are distinguished: coastal herbaceous-shrub vegetation, oak forests, cedar and cedar-broad-leaved forests, cedar and cedar-spruce forests, fir-spruce forests, high-mountain fir-spruce and stone-birch forests and high-mountain meadows. Even higher there are thickets of elfin cedar and mountain tundra. Poplar, Chozenia, willow, ash-elm and alder forests are located in the river valleys. The flora of the reserve is very rich. More than a thousand species of plants, more than a hundred leafy mosses and the same number of rust fungi, almost 400 species of macromycete fungi have been registered here (there are more terrestrial and tree-destroying fungi species here than in all other forest regions of Russia). Many relics and endemics. Among the trees, cedar, spruce, fir, oak, linden, yellow and woolly birch, choiceia (something in between willow and poplar), etc. predominate. On the island at the mouth of Serebryanka, a larch forest grows, the trees of which have low trunks with umbrella-shaped, torn crowns. In the seaside strip there are powerful thickets of large-fruited ribbed roses. Rocks facing the sea, in the thickets of euonymus, hawthorn, Siberian apple tree, viburnum, Daurian rose, lilac. There are also a lot of aconite, asters, cow parsnip, cornflower, Volzhanka, angelica, etc. There are various-leaved and Manchurian hazel, mock orange, lespedets with pink-purple flowers, alder. The next belt - oak forests - sometimes stretches 10-12 km deep into the mainland. The oaks growing on the capes are low and thin, their twisted trunks often creep over the stones. Further, the trees rise to 15 m in height (although the Mongolian oak at the age of 300 years grows up to 25 m), become thicker. Among them, larches, Dahurian birches, lespedez, sometimes Amur rhododendron with pink flowers appear. Cedar-broad-leaved and cedar forests occupy the entire middle belt of mountains (200–500 m above sea level). The Korean cedar reaches 40–45 m in height. In its cone there are 120–200 nuts (three times more than in Siberian cedar, and each nut is almost twice as heavy). The kernel of the Korean cedar contains up to 65 percent oil, and it is no coincidence that this tree is considered the most valuable fodder plant in the taiga and is called the breadfruit tree in some places. Squirrels and chipmunks, badgers, raccoons, red deer, sable, Siberian weasel, and charza feed on pine nuts. Both the Himalayan and brown bears love to feast on them too. The trees growing in this forest zone are entangled with the actinidia kolomikta liana, less often with lemongrass. In some places there are a lot of hazel or ferns. In the valley cedar forests, impenetrable thickets of barberry, currant, mock orange, eleutherococcus are constantly found. In the floodplains, among the ash-elm forests, the Maksimovich poplar stands out for its huge size (black bears settle in its hollows). There are Amur velvet with cork bark, Manchurian walnut, yews, iron birches, lindens, etc. They are entangled with vines of grapes, actinidia and lemongrass, the berries of which are quite pleasant in taste and quickly relieve fatigue. The glades found here are decorated with irises at the beginning of summer, later with Dahurian and tiger lilies, peonies, anemones, and asters. It is the floodplain forests that are famous for medicinal plants (ginseng, etc.). Cedar-spruce forests (above 400–500 m) form a transitional belt. Fir-spruce forests (at the level of 600–900 m) without particularly lush undergrowth, moss covers the rotting trunks of fallen trees. Sometimes larch forests are formed with wild rosemary and rhododendron. On the western slopes of the Sikhote-Alin, there are swampy, impassable areas and mari with blueberries and hemlock. Stone-birch forests with Siberian dwarf pine are located even higher (about 1100 m above sea level). The fauna of Sikhote-Alin is also rich. More than 60 species of mammals, over 320 species of birds, 13 reptiles and amphibians, and more than 30 species of fish are known within the reserve. The Amur tiger and the Amur goral are in the center of close attention of zoologists. The number of tigers is small. In the early 1970s, about 150 of these animals lived in the entire Far East, and from two to ten tigers live on the territory of the reserve at the same time. The Ussuri tiger differs from other tigers in its large size (up to 300 kg), buffy coloration and long thick fur. In search of prey, he can walk tens of kilometers a day and easily swim across stormy rivers. The habits of the tiger were studied in the reserve by zoologist L. Kaplanov, who died at his post. He was the first zoologist to observe the Amur tiger in nature. He managed to find out the size of the family and individual habitats of this predator, the general picture of the distribution of tigers in the region. Without a tent and a sleeping bag at 48 degrees below zero, Kaplanov once spent 28 nights in the taiga in a row, eating the remnants of tiger meals. In 1948, his book "Tiger. Red deer. Elk" was published. Now the Lazovsky State Reserve bears the name of Kaplanov, one of the first directors of which he was. Here in 1943 L. Kaplanov died from a poacher's bullet. The zoologist argued that the tiger in the Sikhote-Alin Reserve is not dangerous, because he has enough wild ungulates living in these places. Finding a man on his site, the tiger tracks him down until the uninvited guest leaves his territory. At night, a tiger may come close to a person sleeping by the fire, but will never attack him. Tigers are also useful: they drive wolves out of the areas they occupy. Goral is a rare hoofed animal (there are about 200–300 individuals in nature), resembling a broad-chested goat with a long tail, long reddish-brown or gray hair. It has small black horns with transverse rings, folded back. Knowing no equal in running along the rocks, the gorals let a person approach them at a distance of 40–50 m, noticing the danger, they only begin to beat the ground with their front hooves. Because of this very credulity, animals were easily exterminated (their blood, like medicine, was bought by the Chinese). Now gorals live not only in the lands, they are kept on the only experienced goral farm in our country. In general, there are a lot of wild ungulates in the reserve (their biomass is 28–30 kg per 1 ha, which is almost the maximum norm for the temperate zone of Eurasia). In addition to the goral, spotted deer, red deer, roe deer, elk, musk deer, and wild boar live here. Spotted deer, the so-called deer flower, is small, graceful, light brown in summer with pure white spots. The head of males is decorated with vertically standing horns. But most of all, the antlers obtained in the second half of June are valued - not yet ossified horns containing a medicinal substance - pantocrine. In Chinese medicine, the antlers of the wild sika deer are considered the most effective; and only then deer and deer. Because of this, the number of deer living in nature has declined sharply. Once upon a time, deer were caught by first driving them into the sea. Caught animals were then kept in pens, and the antlers of living males were cut off over several years. Or fenced off areas of the forest, and during the period of maturation of the antlers, some of the males were killed. It was only in 1928 that state pant-breeding farms were established. Now hunting for wild spotted deer is prohibited. The red deer is also a deer, much larger than the spotted deer, has a uniform reddish-red color, horns with 5-6 processes that do not form a crown. The number of red deer is much larger. The roe deer is widespread in the Ussuri region, although it is six to eight times smaller than the red deer. When big snows fall early, roe deer begin mass migration (during one of these migrations at the end of the 150th century, hunters caught about XNUMX roe deer). Moose are more common in the northwestern parts of the reserve (about a thousand heads). Musk deer (500–800 heads) lives in the dark coniferous forests of the reserve, on steep and rocky slopes. However, its number is not growing, probably due to predators and the large infestation of the animal with the subcutaneous gadfly. There are many wild boars in the reserve, although they are often attacked by bears and wolves. The tiger is also not averse to eating boar. Lynx is also found in the reserve, in the river valleys - a large Amur cat, occasionally a leopard (only 15–20 of these animals have survived in the entire Far East). Brown and black bears inhabit the reserve in large numbers. Moreover, the northern region chooses a brown bear as a place to live, and the southern one - a black one. The black, or Himalayan, bear is smaller, slimmer and lighter than the brown one, with black shiny fur, with a white shirt-front. It has a pointed snout and large ears. Unlike brown, at any age it freely climbs trees. Sitting on a fork in the branches, the bear pulls up the nearest branches, breaks them and collects fruits, as a result of which "nests" are formed on the trees. Unlike the brown bear, the black bear does not hibernate in a den, but in tree hollows, more often poplars, or in rock crevices. Brown bear in case of crop failure of acorns and pine nuts often attacks wild boars. And, having killed a wild boar, he usually hides his prey under deadwood. Relatively recently, wolves appeared in these parts, there are foxes, badgers, otters, sables, sometimes weasels, ermine, weasels. Kharza is a large marten with a long tail and bright coloration (its brownish-yellow back is darker behind, its head, neck, paws and tail are black-brown, its belly is light yellow, its lower lip and chin are white, and its neck and chest are golden yellow). She perfectly hunts young ungulates, and in a group - musk deer, roe deer and even deer. A raccoon dog, similar to the American raccoon, living in the southern river valleys, eats insects, frogs, small rodents. It also feeds on berries. A dog taken by surprise often pretends to be dead. The short-eared dark brown Manchurian hare, resembling a rabbit, lives in the southern regions of the reserve. The white hare settles in the taiga, where there are also entire colonies of the northern pika. There are many squirrels, chipmunks, flying squirrels, wood mice and red-gray voles in the forests. In the river valleys, the Moger mole lives, which is almost twice as large as an ordinary mole. Sea lions, spotted seals and ringed seals are found off the coast. There are many brightly colored birds and tree birds in the reserve (only 8 species of woodpeckers). But there are relatively few chicken birds (only hazel grouse can be found everywhere). Reptiles and amphibians of the reserve are no less interesting. The largest snake here is Schrenk's snake (black above, with transverse yellow rings and a yellow belly). The snake is not venomous, but a bite can hurt. On the trees it catches birds, on the ground it feeds on rodents. In the homes of Korea and Manchuria, she has long been kept instead of a cat. On the slopes of the mountains you can find a beautiful tiger snake (olive-green above, sometimes blue, with a wide black collar, black transverse rings along the body and brick-red spots) and poisonous muzzle. Of the fish, the most interesting are salmon (chum salmon, pink salmon, Sima, Dolly Varden, taimen, lenok, grayling). Sima and pink salmon enter the rivers flowing into the Sea of Japan, and chum salmon enter the rivers of the Amur basin. Fish, having spawned in the upper reaches of the rivers, die. Unlike salmon, chum and pink salmon, Dolly Varden can spawn several times in a lifetime. Butterflies live in the protected area, huge and multi-colored (blue Maak swallowtails, yellow Ussuri swallowtails, satyrs, Apollos, etc.). In June, a lot of mosquitoes, midges, horseflies and midges appear in Sikhote-Alin. Once, a plane that landed here in the meadow had a propeller covered with blood from insects sucking on the blood of animals that got into it. After a midge bite, a swelling and a small bloody itchy plaque appear at the site of the bite. The biting of midges causes a burning sensation, and neither the canopy nor the net saves from insects. No less annoying are the ubiquitous ticks. Returning from a day excursion in the forest, a person can take off up to 200-250 ticks, which are the carrier of spring-summer encephalitis. One of the mosquitoes living here transmits the Japanese encephalitis virus, its bite is fatal in 70 percent of cases. Therefore, before going to the Far Eastern forests, you need to be vaccinated. In mid-August, blood-sucking insects and mites begin to disappear, the rains stop. Autumn is the best and most beautiful time of the year in the reserve (during the daytime in October and November it is still warm). Author: Yudina N.A.
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