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WONDERS OF NATURE
Barguzinsky Reserve. Nature miracle
The Barguzinsky State Biosphere Reserve is one of the oldest in Russia. It was organized in 1916. It is located in Buryatia, on the northeast coast of Lake Baikal. Its area is more than 263 thousand hectares, it includes a three-kilometer zone of the Baikal water area (15 thousand hectares).
Avvakum called Baikal an ocean-sea, but it is still a lake, gigantic in size. Its length is 636 km (almost this distance separates Moscow and St. Petersburg). The Baikal depression is the deepest on earth's land - the bottom of the lake is almost 1200 m below the ocean level, its depth reaches 1620 m. Such a huge natural bowl is filled to the brim with fresh water - it contains 23 cubic meters. kilometers of water, that is, 000/1 of all fresh water reserves in the world. Another distinctive feature of Baikal is its antiquity. If many lakes of the planet exist for several millennia, then Baikal is 25–30 million years old! Currently, more than 1800 species of animals living in Baikal are known. At the same time, more than 3/4 of them are endemic, that is, they are not found anywhere in the world except Baikal. These are Baikal seals, golomyankas - viviparous translucent fish without scales, sculpins, omul, sturgeons, amphipods, sponges, etc. Due to the originality of the fauna, the lake is distinguished into a special Baikal zoogeographic subregion. When Russian industrialists penetrated the territory of the current Barguzinsky Reserve, they called these places the Podlemorye, the fame of which was gained by the Barguzin sable. "And the sable is a wonderful and prolific animal and will not be born anywhere in the world, besides in a northern country, in Siberia. The animal is rare and beautiful, and its beauty comes with snow and comes down again with snow ..." - Nikolay Milescu wrote ( Spafariy), who headed the Russian embassy in China in 1675–1678. Evenks from time immemorial hunted in those parts of the precious sable. However, after the epidemic of smallpox, the Evenk families that survived were unable to develop their lands and began to lease plots to Russian hunters. In addition, greedy buyers bought sable skins for next to nothing. In the era of Kievan Rus, the so-called soft junk, especially sable fur, was valued on a par with noble metal. Therefore, the animal was hunted in huge quantities: in the middle of the 80th century, Eastern Siberia alone produced 200 thousand sable skins per year, and in general in Russia they were harvested up to 1912 thousand. Over time, this once richest region began to become impoverished. Eastern Siberia produced only a few thousand skins (less than five). But the demand for sable fur never dropped, and prices rose. Therefore, the tsarist government was forced in 3 to ban sable hunting for 1914 years. And in 1920 three expeditions were organized - to the Sayans, to Kamchatka and to the Baikal region. An idea arose to create special sable reserves, including the Barguzinsky one. In the XNUMXs, its existence was confirmed by decrees of the Soviet government. The reserve is located on the western slopes of the Barguzinsky Range, one of the highest in Transbaikalia. Some of its peaks rise more than 2800 m above sea level. The ridge is strongly dissected and difficult to access. It delays precipitation, which falls almost twice as much on its western slopes as behind the ridge. Scientist and naturalist O. Gusev writes: “The mountains in the reserve are grandiose. Their peaks, almost reaching three thousand meters, are almost completely devoid of vegetation, they are called loaches. About half of the territory of the reserve is occupied by them. In autumn and winter, the peaks of the ridge sparkle brightly in the sun. Snow lies on the mountains almost all summer, lingering for a particularly long time under the mountain ridges on the southern and southeastern sides, as well as in cirque hollows and ravines ... In addition to the mountains, the reserve is represented by taiga, valleys of mountain rivers and streams, alpine meadows, bald mountains , rocks, glacial cirques. Lots of hot springs with healing waters. The climate of the reserve is relatively harsh, as it is greatly influenced by Lake Baikal. The water temperature in Baikal usually does not rise above 10–12°C; from January to May, the lake is under ice. On the coast, the average annual temperature is -4,6° (winter -20,8°, summer 10,3°). The last snowfalls on the territory of the reserve occur in mid-June, and the first snow falls at the end of August. Summers are sunny but often windy. The largest rivers of the reserve are Bolshaya, Ezovka, Davsha, Birakan, Turkulik, Sosnovka, Kudaldy, Shumilikha. The reserve has hot springs with access to the surface. The water temperature in these springs reaches 75°. Trees near such hot springs grow to gigantic sizes, and grass grows to the height of a man. A small oasis with unique animals and plants has formed here. Bolsherechensky is considered the most valuable thermal spring: it gives about 200 cubic meters. m of hot water per day, thanks to which even in winter a stretch up to 200 m long and 5–6 m wide does not freeze. It settles on the snow surrounding the source, on the thinnest branches of shrubs, on terry coniferous paws. Gradually, all the surrounding objects are covered with an openwork jacket, reminiscent of a thin lacy filigree of frosty window painting. ...White steam is especially abundant and clearly visible in the early morning, long before sunrise. At this time, its clubs are so large and so white that the slope of the Zarodny Ridge is only slightly visible in their ascending, flowing haze. The smell of gases emitted by springs is also much sharper in the morning. ...In winter, the coastal beach of the river in places where hot springs and gases flow out is covered with spherical snow formations. The water vapor released together with gases in severe frost quickly turns into frost and is deposited in the form of a dense snowball: in the middle of winter, a lot of them grow all over the beach, and the growths on the surface give the ball a shape resembling a seal or seal, so that the whole panorama acquires from afar resemblance to a rookery of a sea animal". On the territory of the Barguzinsky Reserve there is another hot spring, located near the mouth of the Davsha River. The water temperature in it stays within 39–40 ° all year round, it gives about 100 cubic meters. m of hot water per day, so it is used as a bath. The flora of the Barguzinsky Reserve is represented by 600 species of plants, among them there are endemics and relics, for example, growing near hot springs. Altitudinal belts of vegetation are well expressed in the reserve. The uppermost, treeless belt is occupied by loaches (they make up more than half of the territory of the reserve). On the high plateaus there is a real tundra, it turns into thickets of elfin cedar. The taiga stretches even lower. In the taiga of the middle belt of mountains, mainly cedar and fir grow, larch and pine are found. Pines, birches, aspens, firs, giant cedars grow in the floodplains. There are thickets of red and black currants, bird cherry, spirea, honeysuckle, mountain ash, elderberry, wild rose. Among the continuous taiga, on the southern slopes, meadows - elakans stretch along the river in a rather wide strip. A person walking on the grass is not visible: he turns out to be covered with grass with his head. In these thickets, one can find a cow parsnip one and a half human height, a purple locust, the corolla of which is located at the level of the face. Like lianas, weave herbs of vetch and yellow rank. Larch forests are usually mixed with pine and cedar, soils are covered with moss, lichen and wild rosemary. Bearberry and lingonberries grow abundantly in the coastal strip. Here you almost never meet the yellow lumbago, but the blue lumbago blooms everywhere in the spring. This is how O. Volkov, the author of the book “Chur, commanded!”, saw the Barguzinsky Reserve in the summer: “... I had to visit the Davsha River at the height of the short Baikal summer, at a time that was especially colorful and amazing at the speed with which everything, having blossomed, Truly amazing are these forest jungles, which the day before were frozen in cold fogs, barely parted with deep snows, and the next day they were densely green, sparkling with large bright flowers, ringing with bird voices and filled to the brim with the freshest smells of juicy greenery. .. You can’t look enough at the clearings in the orange heads of frying pans, blazing under the dark wall of fir trees; on the speckled-pink orchids buried in the shade of the bushes, on the rhododendrons that occasionally come across in the reserved forests, covering the steeps with purple waves. A ray of the sun, casually falling on a thawed patch in the silent larch, illuminated the filigree leaves of horsetails, so light and bright, like a gentle haze that lay between centuries-old trunks. Pink-and-blue carpets of forget-me-nots spread out by the streams and in the swamps. The forest blocks off the cold breath of Lake Baikal, and it's really hot, there are a lot of butterflies and bumblebees on the shores. A few kilometers from the lake, you forget about its constant dank fogs and almost incessant winds. In the thick of the forest it's summer, real summer!" The fauna of the reserve is also rich. About 40 species of mammals, 240 species of birds, 4 species of reptiles and 2 species of amphibians live here. The most valuable Barguzin sable with a silky shiny dark chocolate, almost black skin lives. Scientists have identified the sable of the Barguzinsky Range as a separate subspecies. Sable belongs to the mustelid family, which includes representatives such as ermine, sea otter, and otter. All of them have valuable and expensive fur. But sable fur is truly unique: almost weightless, thick, silky, warm, durable. 700-800 sables live throughout the reserve. When the time for high snows comes, the sables living high in the mountains descend into the river valleys. Unlike other sables, the Barguzinsky feeds mainly on plant foods for most of the year. He likes to eat nuts of cedar and pine elfin, berries, especially mountain ash, as well as lingonberries, blueberries. In the Far East, it feeds on the fruits of lemongrass and wild grapes. Only in summer it hunts red-gray and red-backed voles, less often squirrels, sometimes chipmunk and hay. However, sable can get a white hare or wood grouse, as well as fish. At the feeding points of the reserve, the animals willingly eat jam and sugar, and do not refuse meat. With a lack of one food, the sable easily switches to another and rarely lacks food. The rut in sables occurs in June-July (in February-March there is a false rut, in which males do not mate with females), but the embryo develops very slowly in the early stages. Cubs appear in April - early May. Small (25–30 g, body length 100–115 mm), covered with whitish hair, blind, with closed auditory openings, sables grow rapidly, begin to see clearly in a month, begin to leave the nest in another two weeks, and in mid-August they become almost adults. In the second or third year of life, the sable reaches puberty. In captivity, sable lives 15–18 years. The animal is extremely cautious, and it is almost impossible to see it in the taiga, especially in summer. It has one permanent nest where it spends most of the daylight hours. He leaves his shelter at dusk, and then not for long. As a result of the research work, scientists came to the conclusion that it is necessary to preserve its natural shelters in the taiga wilds. With the help of breeding sable in nurseries, it was possible to restore the number of this animal in Siberia to the level that was more than 200 years ago. By the time the reserve was established, no more than 20–30 sables had survived on its territory, exclusively in the upper part of the forest belt, in impenetrable cedar elfin and on stony placers. However, already in 1934, the number of animals increased by 8-10 times, although their density did not exceed one individual per 10 square meters. km. After another 10 years, sable occupied all the forest lands of the Barguzinsky Range and even those places where none of the old-timers had seen it before: it appeared on the eastern slopes of the ridge, and on the western slopes its range came much closer to Baikal. By 1934, the sable had populated all habitable places. After 20 years, one animal per 2 square meters could be found in the reserve. km. And by 1960, there was one animal per square kilometer of the taiga. This population density is considered to be very high. Currently, the sable population has been completely restored, and Russia annually receives about 150 skins from hunters. The main resources of sable are concentrated in the Far East region (about 500 thousand). The total area of the range where the sable lives is 500 million hectares. But the ermine and the column in the reserve are few, weasel, saltwort, wolverine are rare here. Lynx appears infrequently (there are few hares in the reserve and no roe deer - its main prey). In winter, wolves sometimes enter the protected area in search of food. At the beginning of winter, the fox lives on the shores of Lake Baikal, and when the snows thicken, it goes into the taiga. Reindeer and elk live in the reserve. The bear can be found everywhere in the reserve, as it does not suffer from a lack of food in the taiga. According to the observations of the zoologist S. Ustinov, on average there is one bear for every kilometer of the coast. Not uncommon in the taiga and squirrel (dark gray in winter, pitch black in summer), flying squirrel. A short whistle of a marmot is heard on the mountain lawns. Northern pikas also live there - fluffy tailless animals with large round ears. The Sayan alpine vole, red-backed and red-gray voles live in the tundra, and the housekeeper vole lives in the lower belt. But not a single animal catches the eye as often as a chipmunk, which meets each stranger with a whistle or clatter and escorts him to the border of his site. The otter lives in the rivers until late autumn, hunting burbots and graylings. And the Baikal seal lives in the waters of Lake Baikal (brownish-silver-gray above and lighter below, weighing up to 100 kg). In total, there are 25-30 thousand seals on Baikal now. Obviously, the fish came to these parts during the Ice Age. It spends almost all its life in the water, but every 20 minutes it rises to the surface for air. In the water, the seal swims at a speed of about 18 km per hour, but moves along the coast or ice 4 times slower. The Baikal seal, which lives outside the reserve, is hunted. Its fat, which is up to half of the total weight of the animal, is valued, as well as the skin. Of the birds in the reserve live chickadees, woodpeckers, nutcrackers, crossbills, kukshas, nuthatches, bluetails, jays. Dubrovniks, sandpipers, buntings, swifts, wagtails, lentils live in the coastal strip of Lake Baikal. You can almost always see mallards, sea eagles, and teals flying along the coast. But there are few waterfowl. Of the chickens, there are hazel grouse, stone capercaillie - lighter and more slender than ordinary, large, blue-black with white spots on the wings and tail. Partridges are quite rare here. Silent quail nests in the river valleys. But there are no black grouse in the reserve. About 50 species of fish live in Baikal. One of the most interesting specimens - golomyanki - up to 20 cm long with a bare, without scales, glassy-opaque transparent body, devoid of ventral fins. Up to 35 percent of the body weight of this fish is fat, which is considered medicinal by local residents. About 25 species of gobies live in Baikal, the omul is a valuable commercial fish, the Baikal whitefish, related to the omul. Grayling, taimen, lenok - inhabitants of protected rivers. Once Baikal was famous for Siberian sturgeons, which reach 180 cm in length and weigh up to 115 kg. In the mid-1940s, their fishing was prohibited, and now the population is beginning to recover. In Baikal there are a lot of dace, roach, ide, burbot, char, etc. Employees of the Barguzinsky Biosphere Reserve study natural processes in ecology, conduct environmental monitoring, identify the impact of the anthropogenic factor on the nature of the reserve, etc. The Baikal State Biosphere Reserve, like Barguzinsky, is located on the eastern shore of Lake Baikal, but to the south. It was created only in 1969. Its area is more than 165 thousand hectares, of which 117 thousand hectares are forests, one and a half thousand hectares are water bodies, the rest of the territory is treeless highlands. The relief of the reserve is formed mainly by the Khamar-Daban ridge, reaching 2300 m in height relative to sea level. The northern slopes of the ridge are covered with fir and cedar, the southern slopes are deciduous-pine and cedar-larch. Aspens, poplars and birches grow along the river valleys. The animal world is represented by the inhabitants of the mountain taiga. Alpine voles, chipmunk, northern pika, white hare live here. The forests are inhabited by brown bear, lynx, sable, Siberian weasel, ermine, wolverine, otter, reindeer, deer, and elk. Less common are squirrel, wolf, fox, roe deer, musk deer, wild boar. Of the birds, there are numerous passerines, corvids, thrushes, woodpeckers, owls, capercaillie, hazel grouse, etc. Author: Yudina N.A.
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