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WONDERS OF NATURE
Waterfall Kivach. Nature miracle
Severe, but majestic and beautiful nature of Karelia, the land of forests, lakes and granite rocks. Nowhere in the world did the giant glaciers that covered Scandinavia and Taimyr, Labrador and Patagonia, Alaska and New Zealand in not so ancient times leave behind such a picturesque landscape. Moving from northwest to southeast, a huge glacial tongue carved granite, gneiss and diabase rocks, giving them extremely regular and beautiful shapes. After the rain, they resemble the backs of gigantic fish or even whales, long, round and shiny. In the northern Karelian towns, for example in Kem, these "whales" are sometimes located right among the five-story buildings, not inferior to them in size. Placers of boulders and pebbles of all sizes, sometimes three meters, sometimes small, the size of a fist, surround the rocks, like flocks of small fish. Where the rocks were softer, the glacier plowed long narrow hollows, which have now become lakes, and between them the water has made its way, rolling down from one reservoir to another, like a staircase with blue steps. These short but fast rivers literally boil in scatterings of boulders that form rapids, or fall from steep rocky ledges in echoing foam curtains of waterfalls.
The peculiar beauty of Karelian nature is precisely the sum of the confrontation between two completely different elements: the formidable, roaring fury of rivers, rapids and waterfalls and the solemn silence of pine forests reflected in lakes with rocky shores. And nearby, as soon as you move along the path into the depths of the forest, suddenly a few tiny blue splashes will suddenly flash among the dense windbreak thicket, which the tongue cannot even call lakes: thirty, fifty, at most a hundred meters, their entire length. Quiet charm emanates from these small saucers with clear blue water, and even the name given to them is affectionate and quiet - lambushki. But in this region, which enchants the traveler with either harsh, sometimes lyrical, sometimes cheerful landscapes, there are especially poetic places. And perhaps the most impressive of them is the Kivach waterfall. This is the second largest flat waterfall in Europe (after the Rhine). It is located on the fast and turbulent Suna River, not far from its confluence with Lake Onega. In Karelia there are rivers that are both longer and more powerful - at least Kem or Shuya - but only Suna managed to give birth to three beautiful waterfalls on her short journey: Girvas, PoorPorog and Kivach. True, Suna lost one of the pearls of her white-foam garland after the construction of a hydroelectric station on Girvas, but, fortunately, the most beautiful cascades of Suna have been preserved. On the way to Onega, the waterfall river, like most of its sisters in Karelia, flows through a chain of lakes: Kivi-Yarvi, Lindozero, Lavalampi, Vikshozero, Sundozero, Pandozero. And after each of them, descending to the next lake step, Suna rages on numerous rapids, of which there are about fifty over less than three hundred kilometers. And in the area of Sundozero, at the very end of its path, the already mighty river crosses the last stage, losing twenty meters of height in the final ten kilometers at once. And she overcomes half of them with one mighty jump from the diabase rock that blocks her way to the Kondopoga Bay of Lake Onega. This jump is the Kivach waterfall. Only one relatively good road leads to the protected area, where this pearl of Karelia is located: from the north, from the gray rocky shores of the vast and gloomy Sandal Lake, along which the highway from Kondopega to Girvas runs, to the Petersburg-Murmansk highway. But much more interesting is the southern path to the waterfall, which runs along the shores of three narrow and long glacial lakes: Ukshozero, Konchozero and Pertozero. True, in this case, you will have to give up a comfortable bus and become a hiker for three or four days. But what you see along the way will more than reward you for the difficulties you endured. Ukshozero and Konchozero are located parallel to each other, separated by a six-kilometer-long bridge, and dotted with many islands and islets. One of them on Konchozero is called Seven Verstny. Having passed these lively and densely populated reservoirs, the traveler comes to the deaf, surrounded by forest Pertozero. After walking six kilometers along its eastern shore, he finds himself in the only village on the lake - Vikshitsy. From here begins the last leg of the journey. A forest path leading from the outskirts through a mast pine forest leads to the famous waterfall. Shortly after entering the forest, despite the calmness of a foggy summer morning, you hear some distant noise, as if somewhere sea waves are rushing to the shore. You don’t immediately realize that this is the roar of a waterfall. In calm weather, Kivach, which is three kilometers from here, is perfectly audible in the vicinity of Vikshitsy, and down the Suna its noise can be heard even five kilometers away. The closer you get to the waterfall, the clearer and louder its roar. Some notes are already heard in it. But then the forest suddenly ends, and the traveler finds himself on the banks of the Suna. She carries her waters in a wide stream and suddenly brings them down with a white wall from a ten-meter stone cliff down onto black boulders. Millions of sparkling splashes scatter, forming a cloud in which a rainbow always plays in sunny weather. The deep canyon of the waterfall is formed by black diabase rocks, above which slender beautiful pine trees rise. Gray and greenish spots of lichens clearly stand out against the dark background of the stone. Once in front of the waterfall, you no longer think about fatigue - this majestic sight is so mesmerizing. Piles of water fall with a deafening roar into the bubbling abyss, raising clouds of spray. Everything moves and at the same time stays in place. Two mighty forces collided here in an eternal duel. The gloomy bulk of the rock stubbornly and silently cuts through the oncoming mass of water with its chest, as if demonstrating the desire for peace and inviolability. And the river, on the contrary, personifies seething passion and movement, roars, rumbles and seethes, rushes at the stones, as if trying to push them apart or demolish them ... But the rock stands firmly, not succumbing to the furious pressure of the Suna. Kivach is beautiful at any time of the year. In winter, he looks like a sleeping snow giant, from whose heavy breathing a cloud of steam rises. In spring, the waterfall appears especially powerful and majestic. Having absorbed all the power of the flood, it rushes into a furious whirlpool in a single, formidable and roaring stream. And in the summer the water subsides, and four ledges clearly appear in the main channel - the steps of the waterfall, which are joined by another, three-stage cascade near the left bank. So, losing in power, the summer Kivach is much more spectacular and picturesque, and you can follow the whimsical interweaving of its jets for hours. When autumn comes, the waterfall comes to life again and gains strength, although it does not reach the full power of spring revelry. More than two hundred years ago, in Catherine's time, the great poet of that distant era, Gavrila Romanovich Derzhavin, visited here. Shocked by the picture he saw, the fifty-year-old writer then wrote one of his best poems: "Waterfall". And although today Kivach does not look as majestic as it did in the XNUMXth century (part of its water in the summer is diverted into a flume for alloying logs bypassing the waterfall), nevertheless, it is Derzhavin's lines - "A diamond mountain pours from the heights of four rocks ..." - involuntarily come to mind when you stand on a steep right-bank cliff and look at the boiling of foamy streams under your feet, enchantedly listening to the incessant rumble of a gigantic water mountain. For seventy years now, the surroundings of the waterfall have been declared a protected area. This is one of the smallest Russian reserves: its dimensions are only twelve by fourteen kilometers. But in this small area there are four large lakes and nine lambushkas, two rivers flow - Suna and Sandalka and several streams, pine forests and birch groves rustle. And over all this splendor of nature, the sovereign of the taiga Karelian region reigns supreme - the mighty and beautiful Kivach. Author: B.Wagner
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