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WONDERS OF NATURE
Khibiny. Nature miracle
In the very north of the Russian Platform, beyond the Arctic Circle, among the taiga plains of the Kola Peninsula, mighty stone bastions rise, separated by picturesque lakes and gorges of fast rapids rivers. This relatively small mountainous country is called the Khibiny. Their height is not high (from eight hundred to one thousand two hundred meters above sea level), but still they are real mountains, with glaciers and snow avalanches, talus of stone blocks and difficult steep passes, rapids and waterfalls on swift rivers and streams and spectacular glacial cirques at watersheds. .
Khibiny - a kind of mountains. They are a cluster of rocky massifs separated from each other by tectonic faults. The flat peaks of the Khibiny are covered with sparse tundra vegetation, while the lower parts of the slopes and valleys are occupied by taiga. Actually, the very word "tundra" means in the language of the Sami people living here - "a rocky hill rising above the forest." This word also passed into the Russian language, while changing its original meaning. And on the Kola Peninsula, treeless mountain ranges are still called "tundra", giving each of them its own special name. The Khibiny tundras are very different, and each of them is beautiful in its own way. The largest in area and the highest elevation is the Khibiny tundra located in the center of the peninsula. From the vast plateau that once existed here, little has remained to our time: the basins of the Bolshoi and Maly Vudyavr lakes and the valley of the Kuniyok River, cut into it by six hundred or seven hundred meters, cut the ancient massif from north to south, and the gorges of the Malaya Belaya and Tulyoka rivers lay deep scarred from west to east. Together with the less extensive valleys of Vuonemijoka, Goltsovka, Kaskasnyunjok and Umbolka, they divided the Khibiny tundra into a dozen and a half ridges, ridges, plateaus and individual peaks, creating a kind of miniature mountainous country, a kind of "mini-Altai" beyond the Arctic Circle. The Khibiny tundra is a true paradise for winter tourism, and in summer for beginner rock climbers and climbers. There is expanse for skiers and space for fishing enthusiasts. More than twenty passes of the most varying degrees of difficulty await mountain tourists here, and beautiful wooded islands on the large lakes surrounding the massif: Imandra and Umbozero are always at the service of supporters of solitary recreation. The Lovozero tundra located behind Umbozero has a completely different look. This high, flat plateau looks like a giant horseshoe, with its ends facing the long and stormy Lovozero, and inside the plateau, in a steep-walled stone bowl, there is the most picturesque Seydozero, which has no equal even in this "land of a thousand lakes". The Saami reindeer herders, or, as they used to be called, the Lapps, who inhabit these places, considered this lake sacred in the old days. Every year they came here to make sacrifices to powerful mountain deities - seids and beg for good luck in hunting. Surrounded by high walls of steep banks, a secluded lake seemed to the Lapps to be the home of formidable spirits. The gloomy impression of the lake of seids was aggravated by the ominous appearance of dark gray and green rocks, crossed by blood-red veins of the eudialyte mineral, which hunters ignorant of mineralogy called simply - "Lopar blood". Despite a somewhat gloomy look, the Lovozero tundras are beautiful in their own way, and the "highlight" of Seydozero makes them especially tempting for the traveler. Attract tourists and the rocks towering on the plateau, the remnants of the most bizarre outlines. Once upon a time, they probably also excited the imagination of the Lapps, who drove deer through the Lovozero passes with such unusual and melodic names for our ears: Chivruai, Koftuai, Tavayok, Elmorayok... The western massifs of the Khibiny, located behind Lake Imandra, look absolutely different: Chuna-tundra, Monche-tundra, Volchiy and Greasy tundras. They are lower than their eastern neighbors, not so large and elongated, they can rather be called small ridges, towering among the endless sea of \uXNUMXb\uXNUMXbthe taiga, like oblong stone islands. And if the main decoration of the Khibiny and Lovozero tundras are the amazingly beautiful large and small lakes, then in the west rivers are the first to strike. Dozens of turbulent watercourses running north to the high-water Tuloma, or breaking down the steep slopes to Imandra, abound in such a number of rapids and waterfalls that a traveler who sets sail on them loses count already on the second day. The cheerful, melodious waterfalls of Vaikis, the menacingly roaring Padun on the Ulita River, the boiling cascades of Nyavka and the Furnace - all of them are beautiful in their own way, and the fact that mass tourism has not yet reached the Wolf and Greasy tundras gives them a special charm. Desert, silence, fearless animals and untouched nature - these are the signs of this fertile land, and many rivers of the western part of the Khibiny are still waiting for their discoverers. And in the south, almost by the White Sea, the huge dome of the Kolvitsky tundra rises apart. It is not difficult to climb, and mountain tourists do not favor it with their attention. But how picturesque is the view from the top of Mount Baranya Iolga, an almost eight-hundred-meter gentle cone of which rises in the very center of a huge array. In the south, the endless gray-blue expanse of the White Sea stretches, lined with white lambs of the waves. In the east - the blue expanse of Kolvitsky Lake, indented by capes and islands. And in the north, barely visible in the blue haze, the distant Imandra is getting dark, surrounded by green taiga... Traveling through the Khibiny, you never get tired of being surprised by the imagination of natural forces that created such a variety of mountain landscapes on such a small "patch". After all, the size of the Khibiny is only one and a half hundred by fifty kilometers, and you can wander through their diverse arrays for a month or two. And you can go on a water trip, swim in a kayak, for example, from Lovozero along the rapids of Pan, and then, after the portage, find yourself in the upper reaches of the swift mighty Varzuga, rushing through rocky gorges and rapids of rapids to the distant White Sea. Even Novgorodians mastered this region six centuries ago, which is evidenced by a wooden temple in the ancient Pomeranian village of Varzuga. The pools of Varzuga and the neighboring Chapoma are famous for their powerful high waterfalls, the most beautiful on the peninsula. The wealth of the bowels of these northern mountains surprise and delight. Entire ridges are built here by the "fertility stone" - green apatite, and iron, nickel, and copper ore are mined here. And the Khibiny is a unique pantry of gems, richer than which in Russia only the Urals and Transbaikalia. What you will not find in the local tundras, especially in the Khibiny and Lovozero Blue sapphires, which are not inferior to the unique stones of the Ilmen mountains of the Urals, golden astrophyllite, cherry eudialyte, spinel and lamprophyllite, garnets and topazes - in a word, "the box is full and full" ... The Khibiny are not so rich in rare animals: after all, the Arctic is not the Caucasus, not Altai, and not the Ussuri Territory. But still, the only herd of wild reindeer in Europe lives not just anywhere, but in Monchetundra and its environs, and bird colonies of the Seven Islands or Kandalaksha Bay can be reached from Khibiny in just a few hours. In the world's only Polar Botanical Garden in the Khibiny tundra, you can see all the richness of the northern flora - both taiga and tundra. And the fishermen will never agree that the fauna of the Khibiny is not rich. Such fishing, as on the Kola rivers and lakes, does not happen even in Kamchatka. And the local salmon is in no way inferior to the Far Eastern pink salmon or chinook salmon. But, of course, the momentary joys of the taiga region are sooner or later forgotten. And not the taste and aroma of triple fish soup or fish kebabs will remain in the memory of a traveler who has visited this region. The harsh gorges of the Yumyegorr pass or the Ramsay gorge, the Vaikis waterfalls and the expanses of Imandra, the incessant din of bird colonies and the silvery salmon jumping over the threshold will remain ... The snowy paths of Kukisvumchorr and Yuksporyoka, illuminated by the lights of the aurora borealis, and the crackling of logs in the hot fireplace of the hunting ground will not be forgotten. winter huts on Seydozero, the whistling rustle of an avalanche and the kind frosty muzzles of deer - in a word, all that amazing and diverse symphony of landscapes, sounds, colors and impressions that the traveler is given by the slightly harsh at first glance, but kind, many-sided and fabulously beautiful mountains - the Khibiny. Author: B.Wagner
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