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WONDERS OF NATURE
Mountains of Guilin. Nature miracle
Looking at this magical landscape, one cannot even believe that the soft, gentle lines of the mountains, the enchanting rhythm of the smooth, rounded outlines of their peaks were created not by the brush of an inspired artist, but by the elemental forces of nature, or, more specifically, by karst processes. Nevertheless, it is so. If the Dinaric Mountains in Croatia and Slovenia are considered the classic area of underground karst, then southwestern China can be attributed to areas of especially bright development of another, the so-called tower karst. This variety of rock dissolution processes is characterized, first of all, not by the formation of caves, but by bizarre forms of limestone destruction on the surface of the earth. Limestone layers, once deposited at the bottom of warm seas, now occupy a vast territory from the middle reaches of the Yangtze to northern Vietnam. And in many places here, the tireless work of flowing waters over millions of years has led to the appearance of natural corners that amaze with their beauty and unusualness. This is the legendary Ha Long Bay in Vietnam with its thousands of islands, and the "stone forest" in the vicinity of Kunming, where you can get lost in the narrow passages between the thirty-forty-meter stone pillars-trees, like in a real forest, and, of course, the magical thicket of jagged limestone cliffs Longshan in Hunan province, where an amazing combination of caves and stone towers, limestone gorges and rocky bridges forms a truly enchanted land of frozen fairy tales. The "Heavenly Bridge", thrown by nature through a forty-meter gorge at a height of three hundred and sixty meters, and a fifty-meter waterfall in the cave of the Yellow Dragon, and the extraordinary inhabitants of the rivers and streams of this fabulous country - giant meter-long salamanders are striking in Lunshan ... But the most precious pearl of the Chinese karst are the mountains of Guilin - one of the most fantastic and poetic creations of nature on our planet.
On both banks of the calm Lijiang River, hundreds of high (up to a hundred meters!) cliffs with sheer walls and softly rounded peaks crowded here. The nearby rocks turn yellow with limestone sides and turn green with curly caps of pines, laurels and cypresses, while the distant ones turn blue, washed out by an air haze. It seems that the picturesque landscape has come down from an old Chinese painting written on a silk scroll, or the lines of an ancient poet who once saw Guilin for the first time came to life: High above the valley With darkness to the mountains How caresses my eyes The polyphonic symphony of shapes and colors of amazing rocks, reflected in the calm waters of Lijiang, has for centuries evoked a mystical, prayerful mood among travelers who have been here, inspired philosophers and artists, poets and musicians. The rows of rounded and conical peaks stretching into the distance, covered with dense and lush green tropical thickets, still enchant and beckon the traveler to wander among stone obelisks and towers, steep-walled castles and enchanted palaces, slowly thinking about the eternal and admiring the many-sided and mysterious land of stone fairy tales. , a country of silence and fog, a country of magical secrets and ancient legends and traditions... Small trees, clinging to rock cracks with their roots, are densely intertwined with vines, from which multi-colored orchid jugs of surprisingly delicate pastel shades hang here and there. In the greenery of bushes and vines, the gloomy gapes of deep caves, washed in the thickness of the cliffs by rainwater, darken. Cave tunnels go deep underground, connecting into long systems of halls and passages. Underground streams flow along some of them, the murmur of which the echo turns into mysterious melodies, fading away in the darkness. Even ancient poets sang the beauty of the Reed Flute Cave - the most famous and most picturesque in Guilin. Hundreds of graceful stalactites hang from its vaults, thin and delicate, like pipes, on which folk musicians play strange, sad and drawn-out melodies in an oriental way. During the era of wars, uprisings and revolutions, peaceful peasants more than once found salvation from robberies and violence in the underground shelters of Guilin. So it was in the first centuries of our era, so it was in the XNUMXth century. After all, there were many troubled and bloody times in the history of South China. These are the civil wars of the Three Kingdoms era in the XNUMXrd-XNUMXth centuries, and the raids of aggressive Tibetans and rebellious Vietnamese in the XNUMXth-XNUMXth centuries, and medieval peasant uprisings. In the XNUMXth century, the lands of Guilin were shaken by the opium wars and the Taiping uprising, and in the XNUMXth century, the exo of world conflicts could be heard here. Japanese planes, during the years of World War II, bombing neighboring Canton and Hong Kong, sometimes dropped bombs on the surrounding cities and villages. In the ensuing civil war between the Communists and the Kuomintang, the local farmers again had a hard time. Once again, the caves of Guilin hid refugees, saving them from both. The inhabitants of Guilin consider the hill with the expressive name "Elephant's Trunk" on the coast of Lijiang to be the symbol of their city. It really looks like an elephant with its trunk in the water. At the top of the hill rises an ancient pagoda built in the XNUMXth century, and at the foot is the entrance to the cave of Water and the Moon. On a full moon, from here you can admire the amazingly beautiful reflection of the night star in the waters of a calm river. The lyricism of the surrounding landscape, combined with the centuries-old traditions of Chinese poetry, determined the general poetic mood that pervades everything around both in the city of Guilin and in its environs. Even the names of individual places here sound like the lines of old poems, making you marvel at the folk fantasy. It is enough to walk around the city to be convinced of this: on the streets of Guilin, the traveler will meet Mount Fubo ("Swaying Wave"), and the Park of Solitary Beauty, and the rocks of the Seven Stars, and the mountains of Brocade Pattern... And if you go by boat down the Lijiang River, you will find yourself in the world of mountain spurs and rocks with the most fantastic outlines. And the ancient names of these places will awaken in the imagination a whole world of associations that evoke images of Chinese painting and sculpture, once seen in museums: "White Tiger Hill", "Old Man Looking at an Apple", "Turtle Crawling on the Hillside" , "The Lion Climbing the Mountain of Five Fingers", "The Peak of the Fish Tail", "The Hill of Dragon Heads", "The Camel Crossing the River" and dozens of others, no less poetic. Europeans first visited the Guilin Mountains only in the XNUMXth century. They were Jesuit missionaries who told the world about a fabulous valley in the enchanted mountains north of the Xijiang River. In the future, the Guilin region was closed to foreigners for a long time, and in Europe they admired the beauty of exotic rocks only on ancient Chinese engravings, not really believing in the reality of this bizarre landscape. Only in 1973, one of the most beautiful places on our planet became accessible to everyone, and the flow of tourists poured into Guilin. And although it is not easy to get to it - the fabulous valley lies one and a half thousand kilometers from Beijing and one thousand three hundred kilometers from Shanghai, every summer thousands of people who want to join the magical charm of this poetic corner of the Earth come to the banks of the quiet Lijiang River, where green and blue waters rise above the blue water. blue silhouettes of towers and palaces of the stone country of Guilin. Author: B.Wagner
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