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Cape North Cape. Nature miracle

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Airplanes do not fly here, trains and cars do not rush - you can get to the North Cape only by sea.

The famous cape is the northernmost point of the northernmost country in continental Europe - Norway. Its closest port is the small fishing town of Hammerfest. It is generally considered the northernmost city in the world. And although this title is disputed at Hammerfest by our polar Khatanga and Tiksi and Greenlandic Thule, but, strictly speaking, all of them, perhaps, are villages. And the Norwegian port is endowed with all the features of the city: straight, clean streets with electric lighting, a large fish factory, concrete piers, high-rise buildings ... So, apparently, it is worth leaving the palm to Hammerfest, especially since it is from here that the path to the North Cape begins.

Cape North Cape
Cape North Cape

The ship, leaving the port, takes a course to the north-east, carefully groping for the fairway among the chaos of rocky islands. Behind is the bustle of motor boats and fishing seiners in Hammerfest Bay, the smell of tar and fish, characteristic of all Norwegian ports, and, finally, the ship goes to the open sea.

The North Atlantic Current - one of the branches of the Gulf Stream - brings the warm waters of the southern seas to the Scandinavian shores, so the Norwegian Sea does not freeze even in the most severe winters. But the meeting of the heated jets of this current with the cold breath of the Arctic turns into fogs and rains, so usually the North Cape is wrapped in a gray veil: clear, sunny days happen here infrequently.

The name North Cape is translated as "Northern Cape". To be precise, formally, the northernmost on the continent should not be considered it, but Cape Nordkin located in the neighborhood. North Cape lies on an island separated from the European coast by a narrow strait. But the inexpressive appearance of Nordkin, which almost does not stand out among other capes of the peninsula of the same name, does not attract the attention of tourists to it.

The North Cape is much more spectacular and majestic, and besides, it is further advanced to the north, so traditionally it has always been considered and is considered the northern end of our part of the world.

This cape is located on the edge of the deserted island of Magere. With an impressive three-hundred-meter bulk, it rises above the waves of the sea, protruding forward like the prow of a huge ship. Above it all summer (if there is no fog) the non-setting polar sun shines and flocks of birds are circling - the inhabitants of the bird market located nearby. The giant granite rock is broken by cracks into three ledges: the middle one, the largest one, is the North Cape.

With difficulty entering a small bay, the ship moored at the rocky shore. The ascent from here to the cape used to take several hours and required a certain amount of courage. Now, instead of a narrow path, a convenient staircase leads up, so that travelers who arrive here climb to the top of the cliff without much difficulty.

The upper part of the North Cape is completely flat, like a table. It is covered with rocky tundra with small lakes and patches of snowfields. Fast streams rush from them to the edge of the cliff and break down in foamy cascades. Fringed with a gray-green carpet of mosses and lichens, the path leads north - to where the white arrow points on a pole driven into the edge of the cliff.

From a small observation deck, fenced with railings, a stunning view opens up. On three sides - from the west, north and east - the North Cape is surrounded by the boundless expanses of the Arctic Ocean. The waves are noisy and foaming at the foot of the cliff, it is eerie and somehow uncomfortable to look there, down, from a three-hundred-meter cliff. White crests of waves run along the dark blue surface of the water, break on the rocks and make themselves felt with a rolling gloomy rumble.

At the height of the polar day, the view from the top of the North Cape is beautiful in any weather. Even when low clouds are gathering and a fine gray rain is drizzling, the Northern Cape rises above the raging sea in all its gloomy splendor, like a mighty medieval fortress, repelling attack after attack of the onslaught of storming waves.

The bare rocky plain, stretching far to the south, is enlivened only by scatterings of gray stone blocks and tiny, gnarled birch groves pressed to the ground. Somewhere out there, in the tundra of the northernmost Norwegian province of Finnmarken, natives of these places, the silent Sami, roam with their reindeer herds. They put their plague skins here today, and tomorrow - in a new place, where there is enough reindeer lichen - reindeer moss to feed a small herd. A faithful friend of a nomad - a husky - helps protect deer from wolves.

And above the rocks of the North Cape there is an incessant din and the noise of hundreds of thousands of wings. Myriads of white, gray and black lumps bustle about on narrow ledges of steep coastal cliffs. Seagulls, guillemots, eiders and other feathered inhabitants of the coast breed chicks here, quarrel, fight, from time to time taking off above the sea and falling like a stone to the waves for another fish. Desperate daredevils climb slippery rocks for prey: bird eggs and warm fluff lining the nests. Few, perhaps, there are activities on earth more risky than this polar "rock climbing".

When the time comes to take a last look at the harsh expanse of water spreading below and descend into the bay where the ship is waiting, many will probably think with a sigh that the summer North Cape is beautiful, but still a thousand times more magnificent its appearance in the midst of the polar night when endless flashes of northern lights blaze above the mighty bulk of the gloomy cape.

And boarding the ship, they promise themselves to return here once again, to the kingdom of the sea and stone, where the North Cape, the northernmost cape of Europe, proudly and majestically rises above the ocean expanse.

Author: B.Wagner

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