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Boat for every day and vacation. Travel Tips
There are many fans of water-motor sports, more precisely, one of its varieties - long-distance sports trips. For them boat or boat become not only a means of transportation, but also a kind of home, and sometimes for quite a long time. And for residents of settlements located on the banks of rivers or reservoirs, a motorboat is an everyday mode of transport: whether it is necessary to go for groceries to a neighboring village, to the district center to see a doctor, go fishing or hunting - in many places this can only be done by water . In principle, the industry produces small-sized vessels for economic and sports use, however, despite this, more and more townspeople and rural residents have recently mastered the "profession" of an amateur shipbuilder. This desire is caused not only by an increased shortage, although this is an important factor, but also by the presence of specific requirements corresponding to specific operating conditions. The project of the motorboat "Version-2" offered to readers is an attempt to create a simple design that could be repeated at home without much cost, at the same time, despite its simplicity, which has good hydrodynamic qualities and the ability to use both as an economic traveling and as boats for long trips.
For the hull of the boat, modern contours were chosen, which are currently typical for many planing vessels (see "Boats and yachts" No. 2 for 1989: D. Kurbatov. "Moray boat"). Moderate deadrise of the bottom (17 ° at the transom) allows you to maintain high speed and provides good stability on the course.G-forces experienced by such a hull in the sea are small.Longitudinal stepways increase the dynamic properties, minimize the amount of spray escaping from under the bottom.High coamings and a large width of the hull allow you to accommodate four On top of the volumes protruding beyond the transom, there are recessed platforms limited by bulwarks, which makes it more convenient and safe to change the propeller or key on the shaft on the water. The boat is equipped with a double driver's and passenger's seat, installed in the centreline. Passengers can also sit on a sofa near the transom or in the bow. Of course, all seats should be used taking into account the total load so that there is always a slight trim to the stern. Under the front and middle seats are equipped with sealed boxes for storing luggage. And under the stern there is a compartment where the gas tank, spare parts for the motor and tools are located. Along the sides from the inside there are holders-lodgements for a pole, oars and fishing rods. Engine control is carried out remotely from the central post. Here, on the side surfaces of the control rack, signal go-ahead lights are mounted, and on a small rod - a top light. The design of the hull and the technology of its manufacture are quite typical for amateur shipbuilding. The hull is based on transverse (five frames and a transom) and longitudinal elements (keel and fenders, cheekbone stringers). Since the plywood case is subsequently pasted over with fiberglass, the cross-sections of the used rails, as well as the thickness of the lining, can be significantly less than that of the same dimensions, but purely wooden structures.
Work should begin with the manufacture of frames. They are cut in accordance with the theoretical drawing from 10-12 mm plywood or assembled from wooden planks of the same thickness, which are joined half-wood in the sting area and fixed with wooden spikes and epoxy glue. The most affordable and high-quality way to assemble the frame is on the simplest slipway with the keel up. The slipway is a frame with dimensions of 500x3250 mm, assembled from boards with a section of 20x150 ... 200 mm. Temporary strips are attached to the frames; they are installed on the slipway with a step equal to the length of the spacing. During this operation, pay attention to the location of the Shergen line. According to a life-size template of two or three rails, a keel beam is glued. It is installed on a transverse set and is joined to the frames on the short ones. After adjusting the main parts of the frame and checking for compliance with the theoretical drawing, the slats of the zygomatic stringers and fenders cut into the frames. The required width of the zygomatic splash guard is ensured by gluing foam strips to the stringer in the right place. The stringer installation sites are reinforced with shorties, which are fixed with epoxy glue and small cloves. After drying the joints, the fry is removed from the rails. This operation is performed with a small "flea" planer, constantly monitoring the processing site by applying a piece of plywood to the set. At the same stage of construction, foam plastic blocks are glued between the frames in the bow and stern parts, and their surfaces are given the desired shape. The lining of the set is carried out in several stages. You need to start it with a preliminary preparation of plywood strips with a thickness of 3 ... 5 mm and a length in accordance with the length of the boat and taking into account the bend in the bow. Since there are sheets on sale only up to 2,5 ... 3 meters long, the strips will have to be made as prefabricated from several pieces. The most common connection method is "on a mustache". The bar length of 12...20 thickness dimensions guarantees high splicing strength. Joined edges are processed together. To do this, two pieces of plywood are laid in a “step” at the end of the workbench so that the edge of the top recedes from the edge of the bottom by the selected amount of overlap. From the "step" along the top sheet, the same distance is measured and a line is drawn - this is the beginning of the bevel. The plywood is fixed with a pair of nails and clamps and is cut with a sharp semi-joiner at the right angle. The tool should be led at a slight angle to the edges so that the veneer wood does not crumble, but is cut off. When gluing, it is important to ensure that both pieces of the skin are securely fixed. This can be done by fastening them with several nails to prevent displacement, and then clamping a pair of clamps between two thick boards. The middle part of the joint is pressed with an additional load, which contributes to a more uniform pressing along the entire length of the joint. Now, having the necessary blanks, they begin to cut them. Troubles due to inconsistencies in individual strips will be eliminated if you first make templates from thick cardboard and work out the preparation "in place" on them. The sheathing begins with the installation of the sides: the plywood strip is fixed on the midsection frame, and then it is pulled up with clamps to the set and fastened with screws to the frames, the fender and the mean stringer. Before this, the parts of the set are lubricated with waterproof glue. When the glue dries, the clamps are removed and the bevel is removed from the protruding edges of the plywood. The belly is also removed from the keel beam, after which the bottom strips are installed. They should be cut with a small bevel allowance at the point of joining with the zygomatic stringer. The procedure for fixing the bottom is similar to installing the sides. The base of the body, which defines its shape, is ready; after drying, it can be removed from the slipway and turned over. Cockpit coamings are three-dimensional and decorative elements made of foam plastic. This creates an additional guarantee of the safety and unsinkability of the vessel, even completely flooded with water. Styrofoam processing is carried out roughly with a knife and a planer, and then cleanly, with a large sandpaper. The shape in sections is controlled by cardboard templates. In the middle part of the ship, the coamings are reinforced with plywood gunwales attached to the foam with epoxy glue and long pins to the fender. Now we need to prepare for the next stage - gluing with fiberglass, which will give the "semi-finished product" strength, rigidity and durability. For work you will need: reinforcing material (fiberglass), a binder (polyester or epoxy resins) and a special tool (a sharp knife and scissors with long blades for cutting; end brushes and spatulas for applying resin; roller for rolling and an enameled container for preparing a binder). The strength of the glued boat hull will be determined by the thickness of the fiberglass coating. And since there are quite a few brands of fiberglass that differ in the type of weaving and thickness, then in order to save materials and reduce labor intensity, the most optimal pasting scheme is as follows: the inner layer is satin weave fabric of the T-11-GVS-9 brand; then - two layers of towed fabric or glass wool TR-056-GVS-9 or TR-07-GVS-9; again, a lining made of satin fabric, two layers of matting; a layer of satin fabric and the last, finishing layer of thin fiberglass plain weave - fiberglass SE-01 for folding the rough texture of the previous layers and leveling the surface. This "sandwich" provides a plastic coating with a thickness of approximately 5 mm. The binder is prepared immediately before pasting in an amount calculated for no more than 2 hours of work. By this time, the plywood body should already be prepared: all the bumps and roughness are sanded, sharp edges are rounded, glue smudges are cleaned off. Pasting work should be carried out outdoors at a temperature not lower than 18 ° C. The body is pasted over with strips of fabric. Overlapping of the strips of one layer is carried out in the area of the stingy, by a value of 10 ... 70 mm. Places subject to abrasion and impacts (keel, stem, cheekbone) are reinforced with additional strips of fabric 80...120 mm wide. To make the edges of the various layers of fabric invisible on the finished product, the extreme longitudinal threads are pulled out of them.
Table of ordinates of the theoretical drawing When applying layers of fabric and rolling them with a roller, it is necessary to carefully monitor the surface and remove air bubbles from under the fabric, piercing it with a thin spike and trimming it with a brush. The more carefully this work is done, the cleaner the surface will turn out. An unpleasant feature of bubbles is the possibility of appearing in the outer layer 1-2 hours after gluing as a result of internal reactions during polymerization. Drying continues for at least two days at a temperature of 20 ... 30 ° C. This is followed by sanding the surface of the bottom and sides. Longitudinal redans are installed in their places, the body is primed and after three days of drying it is covered with enamel of the desired color. From the inside, a rack payol is laid, and all wooden parts are impregnated with hot drying oil. The boat is equipped with standard remote control systems for throttle-reverse and direction of travel, sold in sporting goods stores. You can make them with your own hands (for example, using the description in "M-K" No. 4 for 1974). It is very useful to equip the engine with control devices such as the industrial DLM-1, which contains a tachometer and a temperature sensor, or a vehicle with a tachometer and a speed indicator. The devices are powered by a motorcycle battery or a battery pack located in a sealed compartment of the control rack. Signal lamps are also powered from it. Bow and stern roof rails are made of 25...20 mm pipe. The best material is stainless steel. Sealed trunks under the seats are made of plywood with a thickness of 8 ... 12 mm in the form of boxes with careful gluing of the joints. The covers of these compartments, which also serve as seat bases, are sealed with rubber gaskets and are equipped with gramophone-type latches. Seat cushions are made of sheet polyethylene foam with a thickness of 5 ... 10 mm. Such material, having elastic properties, does not absorb moisture, which allows it to be used without additional protection. The glass on the control panel protects against wind and splashes. It is cut from plexiglass 4 mm thick. Ducks, mooring eye and other practical things used on a motorboat do not have any differences from those that exist in everyday life among water motorists. In conclusion, I would like to warn amateur designers about the need to be careful with glass fabrics and epoxy resins. It is necessary to work in rubber gloves and a respirator. You can read more about amateur shipbuilding in the books: 1. Du Plessis X. Small-tonnage vessels made of fiberglass. Equipment, maintenance, repair. Per. from English. L., "Shipbuilding", 1978. The main technical characteristics of the motorboat "Version-2":
Author: P. Ivanov, Stupino, Moscow region
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