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He pumped up the mattress, laced it up - a boat. Travel Tips

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Like many, I have inflatable mattress. It was he who gave me the idea when I was going to build a boat that would fit in a backpack, but which could accommodate a lot, easy to manufacture, quick to assemble. The boats that are on sale did not satisfy me: bulky even when folded, heavy, uncomfortable afloat, designed for a maximum of two, if they can fit anyone, only fishermen and hunters. And what about walks on the water surface where there are no boat stations, but what about weekend trips? No, what is needed is a boat - roomy, with normal oars, obedient, and not a top.

Here, for some reason, the thought of a mattress sunk into my mind, but of a much larger size. Obviously, because of the simplicity of the form and ease of folding. It is not difficult to make this one: we glue two panels together with indents (see Fig.) - we get longitudinal balloons-ribs. But it will be the same mattress, at best - a raft. How to turn it into a boat?


Rice. 1. Scheme of the boat-lacing: 1 - panel, 2 - jumper, 3 - reinforcement strip (fabric tape) (click to enlarge)

You can, of course, by folding the raft in half, sew or glue the end edges, but then the construction turns out to be one-piece. And what if, having also folded the longitudinal sides, do not fasten the edges tightly, but draw in the formed corners? You will get a deaf fold through which water will not be able to penetrate inside. So that its edges do not diverge, you can make lacing on the outside or even glue a "zipper". Thus, from the raft in no time you will get a large keeled boat with an inflatable bottom and sides. If you unlace (or unzip) from one end, the boat can turn into a motorboat: just install the transom board and hang the motor. If both laces are loosened, we get a spacious raft, on which it is convenient to sunbathe, fish, you can even set up a tent.

The structure of the boat is clear from the drawings. A possible addition is glued jumpers, giving the bottom deadrise. It is also worth thinking about eliminating the folds that form when the cylindrical longitudinal cylinders are bent. For complete unsinkability, the boat must be three- or five-section. The fittings for inflating the sections can be brought out in one direction: into the edge of the edge glued with an angle.

And now some technical details. The following materials will be required for manufacturing: fabric "silver" AZT-500 (length 20 m, width 1,1 m); rubber glue (3 l); bandage or cotton tape (40 m); two "lightning" (1 m); rubber from autocameras for oarlocks; polyethylene film for gluing large areas of fabric; gasoline (dilute the glue).

First, preparatory operations are performed. The fabric is cut into three pieces of 4 m; we dilute the glue with gasoline and impregnate pieces of fabric with it (gluing places - 2-3 times).

Then we glue the two pieces overlapping along the entire length, with an overlap of 60 mm (a layer of aluminum powder is first peeled off from one of the pieces for this width). Then we mark, starting from the middle, the places for gluing the jumpers, which contribute to the deadrise of the bottom, and with their flat end switches, which exclude the excesses of the cylinders during the formation of bow-stern bevels. For a rounded bottom, the distance between the jumpers is 150 mm; jumper blank width - 200 mm; indent from the edges of the strip for double coating with glue - 25 mm.


Rice. 2. Two options for forming a panel into the boat hull: with straight balloons (above) and with bevels to the stern and bow (1 - cloth, 2 - balloon-forming bridges) (click to enlarge)

We alternately glue the jumpers at the designated places, placing them in one direction, with the exception of the extreme one. We strengthen the gluing points with strips of fabric or bandage, carefully smearing them with glue. Stepping back from the side edges of the lower double panel 100 mm, we draw lines - here we glue the upper ends of the two extreme jumpers, reinforcing with a bandage.

Having prepared the future "hold", we overlap the "deck" - the third sheet with its edge, which will not interfere with the subsequent gluing of the upper edges of the jumpers to this sheet.

As a result, we get a three-layer glued "sandwich" with ten longitudinal channels-cylinders.

Depending on the desired sectionality, we cut the corresponding number of holes Ø 20-25 mm in the walls of the jumpers, stepping back from the edge of 50-100 mm. Along the end line of the jumpers, we glue a strip of fabric with a polyethylene tape inside or a strip of the same "silver" with aluminized surfaces inside, trying to more reliably seal the joints (we use a VIKSINT type sealant). It remains to put a polyethylene film into the corner to be glued, having smeared both surfaces to be joined with glue, dry it “until tacky” and, straightening the folds, stretching the film, glue the corner. Then, having cleaned the surface of the resulting edge from aluminum powder and bent in three layers, glue the parts across the entire width. We perform the same operations with the opposite end, bringing the channels for inflating the sections into the corner.


Rice. 3. The bow of the panel (top view): 1 - section jumpers, 2 - air ducts, 3 - fittings, 4 - bypass holes (click to enlarge)

In conclusion, we glue oarlocks, zippers or loops with rings for lacing.

On this boat, I sailed with relatives and friends in the first season, all the good days, traveled several times along the Klyazma for thirty-five kilometers - tests showed the vessel to be fully operational.

Author: V. Bezrukov, Serpukhov

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