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It is known that a rock hook (horizontal) can withstand an average load of 600-650 kg. To increase the reliability of the belay point, 2-3 rock hooks should be blocked. It is logical to assume that they will withstand a load of 2-3 times more, but for this it is necessary that the entire load be evenly distributed between the hooks. If you hang your own loop on each hook, then the load will be evenly distributed only with one single direction in space. If a person on the railing (vertical), fixed on these hinges, moves horizontally, then the load will be redistributed between the hooks. Some of them will be more loaded, others less.

In the event of a sharp increase in load (let's say, for example, that there was an erroneous set of slack and a further breakdown of the participant), it will be perceived, first of all, by more loaded hooks. The load may exceed the maximum allowable - the hook will pull out. Immediately, the load will be redistributed to the remaining hooks and, perhaps, they will be torn out after the first one. (Naturally, part of the energy of the break will go to pulling out the hook, but "pulling out" the hook is already an extremely unpleasant event).

On fig. 30 and fig. 32 pictured compensation loop. When changing the direction of the load, some branches of the loop will shorten, others will lengthen and the load distribution will be aligned. (Perfect uniformity will not be obtained, but the result achieved is quite acceptable).

A piece of rope 3-4 meters long is tied into a ring with a grapevine or a counter-eight, stitched into carabiners on three hooks clogged (twisted) with a triangle (Fig. 29). The two sides of the triangle are pulled towards themselves and twisted once each. A carabiner is fastened into the two formed loops and the third non-twisted branch (Fig. 30).


Fig. 31


Fig. 32

On two hooks, the knitting principle is the same. The rope ring is fastened into the carabiners on two hooks, the lower branch is twisted once and, pulling the upper branch to it, the carabiner is fastened into both branches (Fig. 31-32).

If you need to hang a compensation loop on a tree, do this: a piece of rope is wrapped around the tree twice and then the ends of the rope are tied with an oncoming eight or grapevine (Fig. 33). The carabiner is fastened in both turns.


Fig. 33

Authors: Rastorguev M.V., Sitnikova S.A.

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