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PERSONAL TRANSPORT: GROUND, WATER, AIR
A boat for calm waters. Personal transport
Directory / Personal transport: land, water, air At the time of the manufacture of this simple watercraft, the name of which is even difficult to pick up: "either a junk, or a boat, or a boat, or a raft", I had a "Kazanka" - a spacious, durable boat. However, it was intended for sailing with an outboard motor. But what, tell me, is fishing in a quiet backwater after a motor boat has entered it. For walking on oars, "Kazanka" is heavy and clumsy. Its delivery to the water area is also troublesome - it was not possible to do without a trailer and an assistant. So I decided to make the boat smaller, but lighter and more maneuverable. There was suitable material for it: for a year a large duralumin sheet was stored under the roof of the garage, which was simply not cut into pieces for small items. It (2700 mm long, 1800 wide and 2 mm thick) largely determined the design of the boat, its dimensions and contours. For the prototype, he took a small vessel, which is called a "dzhonbot" (probably, for the simultaneous external resemblance to both a two-transom Chinese boat - a junk, and a port workaholic - a bot). These boats are very stable and have a significant carrying capacity, which was what I needed in the first place. He designed the boat based on the size of the available sheet of metal. He set the height of the sides to 350 mm (I read somewhere that this is the minimum allowable), and the length of the front transom is 600 mm, which corresponds to the angle of its inclination to the water surface of about 35 °. And although cutting a sheet of metal was foreseen to be simple, having made sketches of the future boat and trying to foresee all the upcoming difficulties, he made its layout from a rigid sheet of cardboard. In the design of the boat, duralumin sheet was used as sides and bottom. At the same time, it is a load-bearing element, since there is no usual power set of frames and stringers in the boat. Only partly their role is played by two cans (seats) and a gunwale. The boat does not have the usual stem, and the keel, as such, since it is practically flat-bottomed, and the sides in front of it do not converge on the stem, but go into an inclined trapezoidal transom.
The advantages of boats with duralumin sheathing are well known and are found even on the shore: lightness, strength, durability. And although the latter circumstance was not taken into account (the ship was made, in general, as a temporary watercraft - before acquiring a good inflatable boat), everything turned out according to the saying: "There is nothing more permanent than temporary" - the boat has been serving for several years and I’m not going to disassemble it yet, it turned out to be a very practical boat. To transport the boat, you do not need a trailer - it is quite possible to transport it on a trunk mounted on the roof of a car. It is easy to load a boat on it with two people and you can even load it alone. There are no worries about maintenance and conservation for storage - put it on board or on the rear transom, moved it to the wall and let it stand under a canopy until the next navigation, occupying a very small area. On the water, other positive qualities of the boat are also manifested: good stability, large displacement (buoyancy), high maneuverability and ease of oaring. Well, such characteristics as propulsion or course stability at such speeds of the boat are, if not superfluous, then certainly not the main ones, so they were neglected to ensure the other qualities listed above. Doubts in the development of the design option arose only when choosing the transverse dimensions: either to make the sides higher and the width smaller, or vice versa. The choice fell on the "vice versa" option. In those waters where the boat was to sail - quiet backwaters, calm rivers, small lakes, etc., there are no strong currents and big waves, which means that high sides are not so necessary. But a significant width is just what you need. Often, when fishing or hunting for waterfowl, you have to get up in the boat even to your full height. After making the layout, I marked the sheet of metal and began to cut it in several stages. The principle "measure seven times, cut once" was considered unacceptable in this case and used the opposite approach - having measured and marked once, the metal began to be cut at first with larger allowances than required, without immediately cutting through to the end of the marking lines. Gradually bending and fitting the mating parts to each other, he gradually cut the allowances, cut the marking lines. I note: this operation is best performed with an assistant. The connection of seams-joints (allowances with a sheet) was made with aluminum rivets with a semicircular head and a rod diameter of 3 mm. The corresponding holes for them were drilled simultaneously in both connected parts and parts at the stern in place in a checkerboard pattern (in two rows). Before riveting, the joined surfaces were smeared with thickly grated paint. In order not to use material on the transom from the same sheet of duralumin, I picked up another one - 5 mm thick. At the same time, riveting work increased a little, but the length of the boat turned out to be the maximum possible and now two people with the equipment necessary for fishing or hunting can safely sit in the boat. Initially, the craft was conceived of a very simple shape: a hull in the form of a rectangular parallelepiped (with sheer sides) and a nose in front in the form of a prism. During the assembly of the hull, even before the installation of the transom, it was found that the sides of the boat were falling apart (moving to the sides) under their own weight, and the bottom at the stern sagged when the hull was raised. At the same time, the nose of the boat was raised, and the top of the sides in the bow was rounded. However, all this did not upset me - such changes gave the boat a more attractive look. Then I cut the transom not rectangular, but figured. As a result, the boat acquired slightly collapsed sides, a raised bow and a slight deadrise. The latter, by the way, in theory, was supposed to improve the stability of the boat on the course, which happened in operation. Along the upper edge of the sides I mounted gunwales from spruce boards with a section of 100x15 mm. On a boat, they serve both as stringers and mating bars. In the bow on the front transom, they are connected by a beam - a transverse beam for supporting the deck. In the bow, the gunwale was made composite due to the large curvature, and substrates from the same board were installed and attached under the joints. Throughout the board to the gunwale are nailed with galvanized nails. Another beam is mounted between the gunwales at the rear edge of the decking, made of 1,5 mm duralumin sheet. The very edge of the deck is beaded so that water that has fallen on the flooring flows overboard. At the stern, gunwales with sides and transoms are connected by scarves, curved from the same 1,5 mm duralumin sheet. Here, on the corner brackets riveted to the sides, a passenger bank is installed. In the same way, but only in the middle part of the boat, a rower's bank is mounted. Despite the simplicity of the equipment of the boat, this can has a back. But since when moving, it only interferes with the rower, the backrest folds (leans forward) and is installed with the back side flush with the surface of the can (like the "Kazanka"). The back rises when the rower is resting or fishing. And the last. The oars are homemade, although the blades are taken from the oars of the Kazanka boat. The spindles are made of a duralumin tube with a diameter of 22 mm. In the lower part of the pipe, they are cut in half lengthwise, the ends are flattened. Blades are inserted into the slots and riveted. Oarlocks are ordinary two-horned forks with pins welded to them. The pins are inserted into bushings riveted to the sides under the gunwales. To prevent holes in the gunwales from being developed, steel plates are attached to them in this place. The oars in the oarlocks are held by M5 bolts inserted into through holes drilled simultaneously in the fork horns and spindle tubes. All wooden parts of the boat were soaked with hot drying oil twice, and the outside of the hull was painted with paint in a "protective" color. For the unsinkability of the craft, the forepeak (a niche under the deck flooring) is clogged with foam. Remember about your safety: you can only go out on the water in such a boat by putting on an individual life-saving equipment: a vest or a bib. Author: E.Sevostyanov
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