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PERSONAL TRANSPORT: GROUND, WATER, AIR
Dinghy. Personal transport
Directory / Personal transport: land, water, air If you live not too far from a body of water, make a dinghy according to our drawings and you will experience all the delights of sailing. And if this ancient mover does not attract you too much, the hull of the dinghy can be used as the basis of a small motorboat or rowing dinghy. Of the materials, it will require only two sheets of plywood and pine slats. Work on the hull should begin with the construction of a slipway. Prepare two wooden bars with a section of 50x100 mm and a length of 2880 mm, place them parallel to each other at a distance of 300 mm and fasten with three or four crossbars. Now you can start making a transverse set. It consists of three frames - bow frame, midship frame and transom board. Each silt of them must be drawn in full size on a sheet of plywood and, using this sheet as a plaza, assemble frames from pine boards about 20 mm thick. The connection of individual elements is half-wood, on waterproof glue and screws. Now you can start assembling the case. Install the frames on the slipway. It is best to strengthen them with screws. The fact that as a result there will be "extra" holes in the case should not bother you - later they can be sealed with wooden plugs on glue. Cut the grooves under the keel beam and temporarily attach it with one screw to the midship frame. Next, successively bending the keel beam, dock it with the bow frame and transom. After fitting, the temporary fasteners are removed and the timber is finally put in its place. Epoxy glue and countersunk screws are used for this. Now you should cut the grooves in the frames for the rest of the parts of the longitudinal set. The sequence of fitting and installation of rails is the same as for the keel bar. After finally gluing them into the frames, use a ruler to check the parallelism of the outer edges of the longitudinal and transverse set and, having found that the ruler does not fit completely, cut the slats with a planer and clean with a rasp.
I. Bow frame: 24 - corner stringer (pine 18x45 mm), 25 - sheathing (plywood S 5 mm), 26, 28 - lower and upper parts of the frame (pine 18x90 mm), 27 - side part of the frame (pine 18x45 mm) , 29 - the location of the slipway beam. II. Midship frame: 30 - side part of the frame (pine 18x65 mm), 31 - external stringer (pine 18x45 mm), 32 - location of the stock beam, 33 - M6 bolts, 34 - keel (oak rail), 35 - additional (optional) element of the longitudinal set, 36 - bottom sheathing (plywood S 6 mm), 37 - joint sealing (fiberglass), 38 - corner stringer (pine 18x30 mm) 39 - side sheathing (plywood S 4-6 mm), 40 - side edging ( semicircular oak rail), 41 - outer stringer (pine 18x45 mm), 42 - inner stringer (pine 18x45 mm), 43 - can support (plywood S 6 mm), 44 - seat (plywood S 8 mm), 45 seat support ( plywood S 8 mm), 46 - keel beam (pine 18x90 mm), 47 - lower part of the midship frame (pine 18x90 mm). III. Transom board: 48 - seat of the stern can (plywood S 8 mm), 49 - stringer (pine 18x45 mm), 50 - frame details (pine 18x90 mm), 51 - lining (plywood S 8 mm), 52 - location of the slipway beam, 53 - transom sheathing (plywood S 6-8 mm), 54 - lower part of the transom frame (pine 18x75 mm), 55 - side part of the frame (pine 18x45 mm).
It is best to start hull plating from the bottom. The plywood sheet is seized with clamps and outlined with a pencil along the contour with an allowance. After trimming and pre-fitting, the skin is fixed with screws and epoxy glue. Screws are best used brass or galvanized steel. After the adhesive has cured, finish the edges of the sheathing with a planer. The sides are sheathed in the same way. Having completed this work, the hull can be removed from the slipway and proceed with the insertion of the internal stringers, which are the edging and reinforcement of the upper part of the side. In this case, it is necessary to carefully calculate their length or use the method of successive approximations (to paraphrase a well-known proverb - cut seven times!). Spacers 20 mm thick are glued between the outer and inner stringers with a step of 300 mm. The two spacers need to be reinforced - they will be used as bases for the oarlocks. The joints between the sides and the transom and between the sides and the bow frame are reinforced with corner brackets, sawn from plywood 6–8 mm thick and fixed on the hull with screws and glue.
Shvertsy are cut out of pine boards or plywood 15 - 18 mm thick. Their cross section resembles the biconvex symmetrical profile of an aircraft wing. In the upper part of the screws on both sides of each, plywood (8 mm thick) linings must be glued. The rudder of the sailboat is made of ten-millimeter plywood; the tiller, pivotally connected to the steering wheel, is made of oak bar. Upon completion of these works, you can begin to finish the case. It is preferable to glue it on the outside with fiberglass on epoxy glue, but it is acceptable and just putty, primed and painted in the desired color. The steering wheel, screws and cans should be soaked with hot drying oil and varnished. The sailing armament of the dinghy is Latin, with an area of 4,5 m2. The mast is fixed at a distance of 760 mm from the bow (the screws are located at a distance of 1220 mm from the bow). To determine the center of windage and the center of lateral resistance, you can use the following methods. For a triangular sail (which, in fact, is Latin), its center is defined as the point of intersection of medians - lines dividing the side opposite to the corresponding angle in half. The center of the lateral resistance of the dinghy body is easiest to find empirically. To do this, in the supposed (purely approximate!) Center of lateral resistance, a rope is tied to the side and the boat is pulled sideways through the water. If at the same time you change its position h, then the intended center is chosen incorrectly and the anchor point should be changed, ensuring that the boat moves strictly sideways. In this case, the place of attachment of the rope will be the true center of lateral resistance.
When installing the mast and screws, it is necessary to ensure that the center of windage is located 100-150 mm closer to the bow than the center of lateral resistance. Mast height - 3200 mm. Its diameter near the base is 60 mm, while in the upper part it is 40 mm. The hafel and sail boom are made of aluminum pipes Ø30-40 mm and 3000 mm long. It is quite possible to make them from pine bars of the appropriate length. The gaff and boom are connected to the sail by pockets sewn to the main panel. The small area of the sail allows you to do without a complex system of blocks. You will need only one block, fixed with a swivel on the keel beam, and two or three meters of vegetable or nylon rope (for the boom-sheet).
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