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DIRECTORY
101 tips of the master Samodelkin. HAM Tips
1. If you countersink a hole for a countersunk screw head in a viscous sheet metal (copper, aluminum, soft duralumin) with a thickness less than a third of the drill diameter with a hand drill and at the same time fix the part with clamps on a PCB or hard wood plate, then the conical recess will turn out more accurate. 2. When cutting threads in soft metals (for example, in aluminum), you should limit yourself to threading only the first tap. In such a hole, the screw is held more firmly. 3. The thread after cutting the screw or stud will be easy to restore if you first screw the die or nut onto them. Having cut off or bitten off the excess with wire cutters, the end of the threaded part is sawn off with a file, and then the die (nut) is screwed - the thread is restored. 4. To keep a tapped thread in a blind hole clean, the hole must first be filled with molten paraffin and threaded when it hardens. 5. You can wash the dishes in which kerosene was located with milk of lime: pour a little slaked lime into the vessel to be cleaned and, shaking often, fill it to the top with water. After a few hours, the contents are poured out, rinsed with water and repeated again. Cleaning will be faster if coarse sand is added to the dishes while shaking. 6. If after working with kerosene, solvents, paint, the hands have a specific smell, then the best way to get rid of it is to wash your hands with mustard water. 7. It is more convenient to drill small washers and bushings by carefully clamping them in the drill chuck; the drill in this case is clamped in a vice. The rest of the drilling process is no different from the usual. This method reduces the chance of damage to the part. 8. In the notches of the file, particles of the metal being processed will not get stuck if the file is first rubbed with chalk or charcoal or moistened with alcohol. 9. Holes drilled in a thin metal sheet will be cleaner if, while clamping the sheet in a vise, place a wooden block under it. 10. Nickel-plated surfaces of various objects can be cleaned with cigarette ashes, pouring it on a damp cloth. 11. Products made of copper and brass retain their luster if they are carefully rubbed with wax. 12. Metal finishes will not lose their luster if they are covered with zaponlak or colorless nail polish. 13. Bronze parts can be cleaned with a raw potato or a stiff hair brush dipped in hot vinegar. After that, the part must be wiped with a soft cloth, 14. Refresh the surface of small copper items by boiling them for 30 minutes in a solution of soda ash (40 g/l). 15. Chassis made of aluminum or its alloys can be made slightly dull if treated in a 5% sodium hydroxide solution for 5 minutes. Beforehand, the chassis is carefully cleaned with fine sandpaper and washed in soapy water. 16. Refresh aluminum chassis, panels and screens by washing them with a stiff bristle brush in a warm water solution of laundry soap. 17. Notches for files are single and cross (double). For processing hard metals, a cross cut is more suitable, for soft metals - a single one. 18. If the wooden handles of a metalworking tool are slightly burned on fire (before darkening), then it is possible to prevent the appearance of corns or water bubbles on the hands during metalworking (or at least slow down their formation). 19. Screws and nails rubbed with soap or lubricated with vegetable oil will more easily enter even the hardest wood. 20. A crack does not form on the edge of the board if the wood at the place where the nail is driven in is pre-compacted with a metal punch, and it is not out of place to completely grind off the tip of the nail. 21. So that when sawing plywood, its surface does not chip off and the edges turn out smooth, you need to moisten the sheet along the cut line with water. 22. If the length of the screw is less than the thickness of the part to be fastened, the screw can be “drowned” in it by drilling a non-through hole in the part along the diameter of the screw head and a through hole along the diameter of the screw itself. 23. A screw that has long been screwed into wood is easier to unscrew if it is heated by pressing the tip of an electric soldering iron against the head. 24. Cracks that appear on the surface of wooden cases can be masked with beeswax, and then carefully wipe the treated areas with a woolen cloth. 25. The quality of a paint brush depends mainly on the type and type of hair. The best are made from hog bristles, second-rate ones are made from a mixture of bristles and horsehair, the lowest grades are made from horsehair alone. Brushes made from substitutes - nylon fiber - cannot be compared with natural ones. 26. When choosing a brush, pay attention to the length of its working part. If the hair is too long, the paint will fail, neither to shade, nor, moreover, to put in an even layer. A brush with short hair instead of shading will peel off the paint, leaving traces. Only in the case when the length of the working part of the brush is equal to its diameter, the elasticity of the hair and the pressure of the hand are balanced and a uniform application of the paint layer is achieved. 27. If the brush is made with a length of hair exceeding the diameter of the bundle, in no case should it be cut. The working part is usually "shortened" by tying it with harsh threads or twine. This makes the brush more durable. So that the harness does not slip (the brush will taper towards the end, since there is free space inside the working part), it is necessary to put a cork (wooden or rubber) inside the working part of the same diameter as the handle, and the same height as the intended harness . 28. Products and parts made of light wood can be "refreshed" in the following way. In a clean bowl, melt a little white stearin (for example, a piece of candle) and add the same amount of gasoline to it (taking precautions - there should be no open fire near) to get a homogeneous, not very thick mixture. With the cooled mixture, using a linen swab, rub the surface of the wood, and after 2-3 hours polish it with a woolen cloth. 29. The density of the prepared paint can be assessed by dropping one drop of paint on a piece of clean, dry glass and placing the glass vertically. Paint of normal density flows down the glass by 35-50 mm. Strokes of paint of this density, left by a brush, should spread completely in about 10 minutes after application. 30. So that the oil paint does not dry out during storage and that a film does not form on it, you need to put a circle of thick paper on the surface of the paint and fill it with a thin layer of drying oil. 31. A sheet of fiberglass can be split from the corner with a non-sharp knife and divided into two thin sheets. Foiled fiberglass lends itself well to this technique. 32. After two thermal shocks and drying, mica easily splits into plates up to 0,02 mm thick. To do this, the mineral must be heated to 400-600 C, immediately cooled in water and the operation repeated. 34. In the manufacture and repair of various equipment and tools, especially soldering irons, it is sometimes necessary to bend mica with a small bending radius. In order for mica to become more elastic, not to break or crumble, it must be calcined, heated to a light yellow color, and allowed to cool slowly. 35. Bonding dissimilar plastics, such as organic glass or polystyrene with celluloid, is difficult because dichloroethane, which is a solvent for organic glass, does not dissolve celluloid, and acetone does not dissolve organic glass. A mixture of acetone-based adhesive with dichloroethane-based adhesive does not provide high bonding strength. The strength of the glued joint, equal to the strength of the materials being glued, can be obtained if the celluloid part is lubricated with acetone glue, and the part made of organic glass or polystyrene with dichloroethane. After the glue has dried, each part is smeared again with the appropriate glue and pressed one to the other. Final drying is carried out for 4-6 hours at room temperature. 36. Old rubber products can be restored to softness and elasticity by immersing them for 20-30 minutes in a weak solution of ammonia. You can immerse the rubber product for 1-2 hours in clean kerosene. At the same time, it should be remembered that a long stay of rubber in kerosene can not only soften it, but also significantly increase its volume. Softened rubber should be washed in warm water with detergent and wiped. 37. The progress of a crack in organic glass will be stopped if a hole with a diameter of 2-3 mm is drilled at the end of the crack. 38. From rubber stoppers from medicine vials, comfortable shock absorber legs are obtained for instrument cases or beds. To do this, a through or blind hole with a diameter of 12 mm is drilled at the installation site and the cork is fixed by friction or with glue. Another option for fixing such a plug is possible - with a screw or a screw with a washer. In this case, the cork is applied with a cap to the plane of the body or frame. 39. Round glasses can be cut out by attaching a roller from a glass cutter to one sponge of a used caliper. Another sponge rests on the glass through a washer and a rubber pad. The roller is rolled several times in a circle, after which 3-4 tangents are made with a conventional glass cutter, which facilitates chipping the glass along the boundaries of the cuts. Sharp edges are cleaned with a file or abrasive stone under water (or under running water). 40. The "obstinate" cap on a tube of glue can be unscrewed with a plastic clothespin. The same goal can be achieved if you wrap the cap with sandpaper or put leather gloves on your hands. 41. PVA glue can be used to clean heavily soiled records from dust. Glue is applied with a soft brush, gauze swab or sponge to the entire working area of the plate. The surface of the plate is poorly wetted with glue, so during the drying process it is necessary to periodically rub the glue over the entire surface, achieving a uniform coating. After 15-20 minutes, a second layer of glue is applied, and after 20-30 minutes, an elastic transparent film is formed on the surface of the plate. The film is carefully separated with a razor blade at the edge of the plate and removed entirely, from the entire surface. At the same time, all dust particles are removed along with the film. 4-39. Bonding of polyethylene can be done with BF glue. The surfaces to be glued must first be thoroughly rinsed with a 25% solution of chromic anhydride in order to remove a very thin greasy film from the polyethylene surface, after which the BF glue "grabs" the surfaces to be glued well. 40. Nylon can be glued with concentrated hydrochloric or formic acid. 41. Mica is glued together with a weak solution of gelatin. If increased requirements are imposed on the strength of the bonding, then chromic alum is added to the gelatin. 42. A broken whetstone can be glued together with shellac, and the connection is not inferior in strength to a solid stone. First of all, the pieces of stone must be thoroughly cleaned and all oil residues removed from the fracture points by heating the pieces on a hot thick metal sheet. All parts that should be in contact are carefully sprinkled with shellac and heated again until the shellac melts and fills the pores. The flame must not touch the pieces, otherwise they may crack elsewhere. For the same reason, they should not be overheated. When the shellac is melted, the pieces are put together, pressed one against the other and clamped with a clamp until they cool, 43. A good, "thin" putty can be prepared on water-based paint by adding finely sifted chalk or tooth powder to it (you can use the sediment of long-stored paint). Putty should be applied in a thin layer. It is convenient to use a metal spatula for this. Steel products can only be puttied after preliminary priming of their surface, since the water-based base causes intense corrosion of the unprotected metal surface. 44. Rough but strong putty can be prepared by kneading alabaster on floor varnish. 45. If you need to cut a narrow groove in the part (for example, a slot in the head of a screw), and there is no special tool, such as slotting, a similar operation can be performed using a conventional hacksaw for metal, slightly modifying its blade. To do this, on a rotating grinding wheel on both sides of the blade, the side edges of the teeth are grinded evenly along the entire length until the "divorce" disappears completely. A properly ground down blade should have smooth, shiny surfaces on both sides and a thickness on the side of the notch that is 0,1-0,3 mm greater than that of the non-working edge. 46. A convenient scriber can be made from a watch screwdriver, in which the working part is replaced by a piece of a thick sewing needle. 47. A sharpened copper bar scriber is convenient for marking ferrous metals. 48. The harder the material to be drilled, the greater the sharpening angle of the drill should be: for wood - 60, for metals - more than 90, for glass (and hard steels) -120 °. 49. If a thin drill is poorly fixed in the drill chuck, you need to wind a tinned copper wire with a diameter of 0,4-0,6 mm around the drill shank - tightly, coil to coil, in one layer, and bark. 50. A cutter from a desktop pencil sharpener (sold separately from the sharpener) can be successfully used for boring large holes in wood and plastic, which were drilled, for example, along a circular jig (p. 5-12). For work, it is fixed in the chuck of an electric drill. 51. The roller from the glass cutter is suitable for engraving on glass, metal, plastic, if it is fixed in the tip of the drill using a holder for abrasive discs or mounted on the axis of any small motor. With sufficient motor power, the roller easily cuts glass to a greater depth. 52. A needle from a medical syringe will help restore the seam in a hard-to-reach place. The needle is inserted into the opening of the seam from the outside, and an ordinary sewing needle from the inside is touched by touch against the bevel at the end of the medical needle. With a sewing needle, the needle is squeezed out from the syringe and the sewing needle and thread are easily pulled through. 53. In the absence of a micrometer, you can determine the diameter of the wire by winding several tens of turns of wire on a round rod or pencil and dividing the length of the winding (in millimeters) by the number of turns. With careful winding and sufficient length, it is possible to measure the diameter of the wire in this way with an accuracy of 0.01 mm. 54. Knives, chisels and other cutting tools are easier and faster to sharpen if you first lower the blade for half an hour in a weak solution of sodium chloride, and lightly moisten the bar with kerosene. 55. Various (not too volatile) liquids consumed in small doses are conveniently kept on hand in small polyethylene bottles with a screw cap in which a small hole is drilled or pierced. Turning the bottle upside down with a cork and squeezing its walls, squeeze out the desired dose of liquid, for example, to degrease the surface, to wet an emery bar or swab, etc. 56. If you need to press one part into another, and so that part of the part protrudes to a given length, you can use a technological (auxiliary) tube. The inner diameter of the tube must correspond to the diameter of the part to be pressed, and the length of the tube must correspond to the length of the part of the part protruding after pressing. The process tube is put on the part to be pressed in and pressed in a vice (until the vise jaw stops in the process tube). Instead of the process tube, you can use a set of washers of a suitable diameter - so that the length of the set is equal to the length of the protruding part of the part. 57. A household vacuum cleaner can be used to clean equipment from dust, to suck solder, or use it as a pump. In these cases, the working tool is connected to the nozzle of the vacuum cleaner with a flexible hose with a diameter of o-10 mm using an adapter made of a rubber cork (under the diameter of the nozzle of the vacuum cleaner), in which a hole is drilled and a piece of metal tube is tightly inserted (under the diameter of the fired flexible hose). 58. Marking conductors on the printed circuit board and on the diagram will facilitate installation, configuration and troubleshooting. PCB trace numbers are best etched along with the traces. 59. A handy scraper for retouching a printed circuit board pattern applied with ink or nitro paint will turn out if you insert a piece of a safety razor blade into the clamp of a collet pencil. If you want to work with a slightly curved blade, choose a collet with. an odd number of sponges. 60. If, when developing a printed circuit board pattern, it is difficult to do without crossing the printed conductors, then one of the conductors is torn, and contact pads with holes in the board are provided at the ends of the gap. After manufacturing the printed circuit board, a wire jumper is soldered into the holes of the contact pads. 61. To apply a pattern to the board, you can use silicate glue, which is then dried under a lamp for 4-5 minutes. 62. Instead of paint, as a protective layer when etching in nitric or hydrochloric acid, you can use a solution of rosin in ethyl alcohol. It usually takes 10 minutes for the painting to dry. 63. To remove the oxide film from the foil and to degrease it, it is convenient to use an ink student's gum. 64. Small diameter holes in thin boards can be drilled with a sewing machine needle. At the same time, the eye of the needle is broken off and the cutting edges are sharpened, as with a conventional drill. To work with such a "drill" should be at increased speeds of the drill chuck. 65. Etching of printed circuit boards at home can be done in a plastic bag. To do this, place the board in a bag and fill it with a solution of ferric chloride. So that the sharp corners of the board do not damage the bag, they are rounded off. Shaking the bag during the pickling process, mix the solution. If it is necessary to pickle at an elevated temperature of the solution, the bag is placed in a vessel with hot water, holding it by the edges. 66. Etching a printed circuit board in a concentrated solution of nitric acid takes from 1 to 5 minutes, but requires caution. After etching, the printed circuit board is thoroughly washed with soap and water. 67. It is advisable to remove the second layer of foil from a double-sided foil blank when performing single-sided printed wiring (in order to save the etching solution). To do this, a corner of the foil is separated with a knife blade and the entire layer is removed with tweezers or pliers. 68. The etching time of the board depends on the intensity of the exchange of the solution at the surface of the foil. Therefore, to accelerate the etching, the vessel should be shaken periodically. 69. If a suitable vessel for etching cannot be found, then you can proceed as follows. When cutting off the board blank, an allowance of 6-8 mm is provided along the perimeter. After drawing the pattern on the board along the edges of the workpiece from the side of the foil, a 10-15 mm high rim is formed from plasticine. In the resulting "vessel" pour a solution of ferric chloride. Drilling holes for soldering parts in this case is carried out after etching. 70. It is possible to clean a cuvette in which etching has been carried out many times with the help of alkaline battery electrolyte: the cuvette is filled with a solution for several hours, after which it is washed in running water, 71. Checking all elements before installation guarantees the operability and successful configuration of the device. Most elements can be checked with a conventional tester, and small capacitors (picofarad units) in the absence of a capacitance meter, using headphones. A capacitor charged from a voltage source is discharged to the resistance of telephones and its suitability is judged by the presence of a click in the telephones. The larger the capacitance (or voltage), the louder the sound of the discharge will be. With such a check, it is necessary to apply a voltage not higher than the nominal voltage for this type of capacitor. 72. When it is not possible to replace one or another microcircuit with an identical one, but there is one suitable for its functional purpose in another case, an adapter block can be made from foil fiberglass or getinaks. The microcircuit is mounted on an adapter block, and then the adapter is connected by contact posts to the printed circuit board. Contact racks are made from pieces of wire with a diameter of 0,4-0,5 mm. 73. If mounting clips are not installed in the finished board, and they are not at hand, then in order to preserve the printed wiring, when selecting elements at the necessary mounting points, solder pieces of tinned copper wire with a diameter of 0,5-0,6 mm, and to them - selected elements. At the end of the adjustment, the pieces of wire are removed and the selected element is soldered. 74. A pistol-type electric soldering iron (220 V, 50 W) heats up faster if a D226 or D7Zh diode is soldered in parallel with the switch. When the switch contacts are opened, the soldering iron does not turn off, but only the degree of its heating decreases. A similar technique can be used when working with any soldering iron powered by alternating current. It is enough to mount the micro button in the soldering iron stand and turn on the diode in parallel with it. 75. In order to be able to extend the rod or replace it with a new one in the PSN-40 soldering iron or in another similar design, the rod must not be allowed to jam in the body of the soldering iron due to the formation of scale. To do this, each time before turning on the soldering iron, it is necessary to turn the rod in the body with pliers. 76. Pull out the burnt rod from the body of the soldering iron using a simple tool. In a steel bar with a thickness of 3-4 mm and a size of approximately 40X80 mm, a hole is drilled along the diameter of the rod. The bar is clamped in a vise, the fixing ring is removed from the casing of the electric soldering iron from the side of the rod and the rod is inserted into the hole in the bar until the casing stops against the bar. Then, grabbing the rod with pliers (preferably with a cutting edge), tongs or wire cutters, they pull it out like a nail. 77. Shells on the tip of the soldering iron make it difficult for the solder to flow into the place of soldering, worsen thermal contact with it and, therefore, slow down the soldering process. To give the soldering iron tip the desired shape should be forged and only a little can be corrected with a file. Work hardening reduces the intensity of copper dissolution in the solder and slows down the formation of shells. 78. The groove (propyl) on the tip of the soldering iron gives a gain when performing some soldering work: the amount of solder held by the tip increases and the tinning of the element leads is facilitated. 79. "Soldering acid" (zinc chloride) is prepared by dissolving metallic zinc in hydrochloric acid at a rate of 412 g/l (at a hydrochloric acid density of 1,19 g/cm3). The acid is carefully and gradually poured into the dishes with pieces of zinc, and the level should not exceed 3/4 of the depth of the dish. The final dissolution of zinc in acid is determined by the cessation of the release of hydrogen bubbles. The resulting solution of zinc chloride. stand until transparent and carefully poured into a vial. 80. Instead of "soldering acid", a flux composed of equal parts (by weight) of ammonium chloride and glycerin can be used. At the same time, the place of soldering is not oxidized. The flux is also suitable for soldering stainless steel. 81. Acetone-rosin flux is not inferior in quality to alcohol-rosin. It well wets the surface and easily flows into the gap between the soldered parts. Therefore, in the absence of alcohol, a flux can also be prepared on acetone, taking it in the same relative amount. However, it must be remembered that acetone is toxic and has a sharp unpleasant odor, therefore, it is possible to work with such a flux only with good ventilation of the room. 82. It is convenient to store liquid and semi-liquid flux (alcohol-rosin, "soldering acid", etc.) in a plastic oiler, the proboscis of which is closed with a special stopper. Using such an oiler, you can quickly and easily apply the required amount of flux to the soldering point. At the same time, the flux is consumed much more economically, the evaporation of its solvent decreases, and the soldering is cleaner and more accurate. 83. You can solder a ball bearing to the flange using POS 61 solder and a flux of the following composition: ethyl alcohol - 73 ml, rosin - 20 g, aniline hydrochloride - 5 g, triethanolamine - 2 g. Before the final assembly of the assembly, the parts should be degreased, after soldering, rinse the assembly in gasoline and lubricate the bearing. 82. For splicing wires made of high resistance alloys (nichrome, constantan, manganin, etc.), you can use a simple method that does not require any special tool. The wires at their junction are stripped and twisted. Then a current of such strength is passed through them so that the junction glows red-hot. A piece of lapis is placed on this place with tweezers, which melts when heated, as a result of which a good electrical contact is formed at the junction. 83. Thin copper wires can be welded in the flame of an alcohol lamp or a match. To do this, they are stripped 20 mm, folded, carefully twisted and heated until a ball of molten metal is formed, giving reliable contact. 84. Tinning an aluminum surface before soldering is easier if it is pre-coppered. To do this, the place of soldering is cleaned and two or three drops of a saturated solution of copper sulfate are carefully applied to it. Next, the negative pole of a direct current source is connected to the aluminum part, and a piece of copper wire is attached to the positive pole, the end of which is lowered into a drop of vitriol so that the wire does not touch the aluminum. After some time, a layer of red copper will settle on the surface of the part, which, after washing and drying, is tinned in the usual way. As a power source, you can use a battery from a flashlight. 85. The thermal regime of low-power transistors can be facilitated by putting a torus ("steering wheel") on the metal case of the transistor from a spiral made of copper, brass or bronze wire with a diameter of 0,5-1,0 mm. 86. A good plate heatsink can be the metal case of the device or its internal baffles. 87. The flatness of the contact pad is checked by smearing it with some kind of dye and attaching the base of the transistor to be fixed. The protruding sections of the site will color the bottom of the transistor housing. 88. To ensure good thermal contact, it is necessary to lubricate the surface of the transistor adjacent to the radiator with a non-drying lubricant, such as silicone. This will reduce the thermal resistance of the contact by one and a half to two times. 89. The front panel of the speaker system can be draped with mesh synthetic material used in sewing bologna raincoats. It can be painted with nitro enamel. 90. Fly marks on scales, panels and other parts are very difficult to remove with gasoline, alcohol and other solvents. At the same time, these stains disappear without a trace if the contaminated areas are wiped with a cloth or cotton wool moistened with saliva. 91. If, before unscrewing a paint-filled screw, heat its head with a powerful soldering iron, the paint softens, which allows you to unscrew the screw without fear of damaging the slot on its head. A few drops of acetone or a cotton swab moistened with acetone or solvent and placed on the screw head or nut for a while help in a similar situation. 92. It is possible to remove metal ferromagnetic filings from the gap of the magnetic system of a dynamic loudspeaker if the gap is filled with rubber glue. After the glue dries, its film, together with sawdust, can be easily removed with tweezers. If required, the operation is repeated. 93. It is best to clean the electric motor collector with an ordinary school ink eraser, since even the finest-grained sandpaper or pumice stone leaves scratches. Cleaning is done as follows. Gasoline washes away dirt and oil from the manifold and dries it. Then the rubber is pressed against the collector, like an electric brush, and the rotor is turned. After obtaining a shiny surface, the collector is washed with clean gasoline. 94. When winding an inductor with a wire in enamel insulation, it must be taken into account that dirty hands can significantly reduce the quality factor of the coil, so the wire should be held through a flap of cotton fabric when winding. It is even better to wind in thin cotton gloves. 95. To prevent the formation of "lambs" on the wire, it is necessary to put on the wire a PVC tube with a diameter of 4-5 and a length of 100-150 mm before winding the coil. Under the weight of the tube, the winding wire is stretched, which prevents it from twisting and at the same time does not interfere with winding. 96. To shield loop coils, high-frequency transformers and chokes, you can use cases from faulty starters for fluorescent lamps. Through the hole in the bottom, you can adjust the inductor. 97. At frequencies above 10 MHz, a copper film with a thickness of only 0,1 mm gives a good shielding effect, so for these frequencies the screen can be soldered from foil insulating material. 98. To fix the position of the carbonyl cores in the coil, a strip of polyethylene film of suitable thickness can be used, lowering it into the frame before screwing the core. The film will fill the gap in the thread and will not allow the core to move spontaneously. 99. Losses in the decoupling RC circuit will decrease significantly if the resistor is replaced by a semiconductor diode. 100. If you need to discharge a large capacity electrolytic capacitor, you should not make a short circuit, as the internal contact of the output may be broken. It is necessary to discharge the capacitor through a resistor, choosing its resistance R such that the discharge time is about one second, i.e. R≈ "200 / C (resistance in kiloohms, capacitance in microfarads). 101. Ten councils in one council. I promised you one hundred and one advice. You have already read a hundred, and here is the hundred and first:
Author: N.Filenko (UA9XBI)
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Comments on the article: Alexander Thank you a guest Screws and nails rubbed with soap will more easily enter even the hardest wood. And then, interacting with alkali, they will turn into dust (in the presence of moisture). ![[cry]](https://diagram.com.ua/comments/smilies/cry.gif){kind=small}
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